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TRADITIONAL MOUNTAINEERING
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Climbing Monkey Face at Smith Rock, Oregon!
"Monkey Face" Poster!
Tyrolean Traverse from the Diving Board on the Smith Rock Summit Plateau to the Monkey's Mouth Cave,
then a short five seven aerie climb from the Monkey's Mouth to the Nose Block,
a climb to the Top, rappel to the Nose Block and a free hanging rappel to the base (black rope bag).
Getting used to the exposure on the Diving Board?
Tied in!
Looking west toward the Oregon Cascades across the farms surrounding Smith Rock State Park
Photo Op
All images on this page Copyright© 2002-2010 by Robert Speik. All Rights Reserved.
For an inexpensive poster of "MonkeyShines" click here:
Read more . . .
MOUNT HOOD
Mount Hood - Analysis of the December 2009 deaths of three climbers on Reid Glacier Headwall
Mount Hood - Fatal ice fall below the Pearly Gates during warming winter weather
Mount Hood - Fatal rock fall below the Eliot Glacier Headwall during summer conditions
Mount Hood - Climber falls 300 feet descending the South Side from the summit
Mount Hood - Climber falls descending Mazama Chute from summit
Mount Hood - Lessons learned from the latest lost Mt. Hood climbers
Mount Hood - Two climbers become lost descending the South Side
Mount Hood - Final Report to the American Alpine Club on the loss of three climbers in December 2006
Mount Hood - Veteran climber injured during ice axe arrest on Mt Hood
Mount Hood - Climber injured by falling ice, rescued by helicopter
Mount Hood - Three climbers, their MLU and a dog "rescued"
Mount Hood - Three North Face climbers lost
Mount Hood - What happened to the three climbers on the North Face?
Mount Hood - Solo climber falls from Cooper Spur
Mount Hood - Climbing accident claims three lives -Final Report and our Analysis
Mount Hood - Notable mountain climbing accidents Analyzed
Mount Hood - Solo hiker drowns while crossing Mt. Hood's Sandy River
Mount Hood - Solo climber slides into the Bergschrund and is found the following day
Mount Hood - The Episcopal School Tragedy
Mount Hood - Experienced climbers rescued from snow cave
Mount Hood - A personal description of the south side route
Mount Hood - Fatal avalanche described by Climbing Ranger
Mount Hood - Avalanche proves fatal for members of Mazamas climbing group
Mount Hood - Snowboard rider dies on Cooper Spur
Mount Hood - Fatal fall on snow, Cooper Spur Route
Mount Hood - Fatal fall on snow from the summit
Mount Hood - Climb shows the need for knowledge
Mount Hood - Climb ends in tragedy
Mount Hood - Rescue facilitated by use of a VHF radio!
THE THREE SISTERS MARATHON
The Five Sisters Marathon by Pat Creedican
North Sister and Middle Sister spring summits on telemark skis
Middle Sister and North Sister exploratory
BROKEN TOP
Solo backcountry ski to Broken Top Bowl and return
McArthur Rim - responsible climber slips on steep hard snow
A fine winter summit of Broken Top by Eric Seyler
Broken Top - climber disappears
Broken Top - climber slips on hard snow
SOUTH SISTER
Two rescued in Three Sisters Wilderness
Bend Teen Falls Into Crevasse on South Sister
Three Stranded Hikers Assisted from Atop South Sister by SAR
Father and sons rescued descending South Sister in storm on Labor Day
Man rescued from crevasse just off South Sister climber's trail
Prospectus for a summer climb of South Sister
Hiking to the summit of South Sister
Family of five and exhausted Great Dane dog rescued from South Sister Climber's Trail
Photos of a South Sister snow-climb in June 2006
A cross country circumnavigation of South Sister in September
South sister spring overnight snow climb
for gear and skills
MIDDLE SISTER
Middle and North Sister exploratory adventure
North Sister and Middle Sister spring summits on telemark skis
Middle Sister - climb proves need for equipment and experience
NORTH SISTER
North Sister - Accident analyzed for ANAM by Fitz Cahall
North Sister - Trip Report June 2007
North Sister - Climbers swept by avalanche while descending Thayer Glacier Snowfield
North Sister - Climbing with Allan Throop
North Sister - Accident Report to the American Alpine Club
on a fatal fall
North Sister - Fatal accident news reports
on the loss of Dr. Shively
North Sister and Middle Sister - Trip
Report, spring summits on telemark skis
North Sister - North Ridge Trip Report by Sam Carpenter
North Sister - AAC Report of fatal fall from east side
by Martina Testa
North Sister - SE Ridge Solo, a Trip
Report by Sam Carpenter
SMITH ROCK
Smith Rock Climbers injured by Monkey Face swing stunt
Smith Rock climber survives 40-foot fall, rescued by SAR
Smith Rock climber rescued after 70-foot sliding fall
Young Smith Rock climbers become stranded on Monkey Face
Smith Rock - Warning!! ** Climber falls trying to clip first bolt
Smith Rock - AAC: Experienced rock climber Jim Anglin dies
Smith Rock - AAC: Leader fall turns climber upside down
Smith Rock - AAC: Warning!! ** Belayer drops climber off the end of the top rope
Smith Rock - AAC: Fall on rock - protection pulled out
Smith Rock - AAC: WARNING - Belayer drops climber off the end of the top rope
Smith Rock - AAC: Inadequate top rope belay
Smith Rock - AAC: Climber injured on the approach
Smith Rock - AAC: WARNING - Belayer drops climber off the end of the top rope
Smith Rock - AAC: Belay error - novice sport climber injured
Smith Rock - AAC: Fall on rock, protection pulled out
Smith Rock - AAC: Fall on rock - poor position, inadequate protection
Smith Rock - AAC: Pulled rock off - fall on rock, failure to test holds, exceeding abilities
Smith Rock - Eye witness
report of a serious fall
Smith Rock - AAC: Belay error - fatal fall on rock
MOUNT WASHINGTON
Mount Washington - AAC: Matt and Joanne,
Accident on traditional North Ridge Route ends with helicopter rescue
Mount Washington - News:
Matt and Joanne, News reports of their serious accident
Mount Washington - AAC: BC and JWS, Leader
fall, good belay, self rescue and extraction by helicopter
Mount Washington - AAC:
Seifert-Gentz, Report on fatal accident while setting rappel anchor
Mount Washington - Rock and Ice,
analysis of double fatality on Mount Washington
Mount Washington - News: Seifert-Gentz, Oregon tragedy claims two lives
Mount Washington - News: JM, Injured climber rescued from Mount Washington
Mount Washington - AAC: Seyler-Smith,
Leader fall, protection pulled out and anchor fails - Epic accident
Playing Icarus on Mount Washington, an Epic
story by Eric Seyler for Climbing Magazine pdf
THREE FINGERED JACK
Trip Report: Climb of Three Fingered Jack in the Mount Jefferson Wilderness
News - Three Fingered Jack - OSU student falls on steep scree slope
AAC Report - Fatal fall from Three Fingered Jack in the Mount Jefferson Wilderness
AAC Report - Three Fingered Jack - Fatal slip on snow patch
AAC Report - Three Fingered Jack - belayed fall from The Crawl
Trip Report: Photos of climbing Three Fingered Jack, a deceptively dangerous fifth class summit
Trip Report: Photos: Climbing Three Fingered Jack
TR: Three Fingered Jack experience by Ben Siebel
TR: A violent fall on Three Fingered Jack by Julie Zeidman
A violent fall in Spain on caught on video - WARNING - This may be disturbing!
MOUNT JEFFERSON
Mount Jefferson - two climbers rescued by military helicopter
Mount Jefferson - climbing accident recounted
Mount Jefferson - downclimb proves fatal to solo climber
MOUNT ADAMS
Two novice climbers assisted by SAR on Mt. Adams
A fine Mount Adams summit by Paul Chance
Mount Adams, a fine traditional alpine mountaineering summit
MOUNT ST. HELENS
Snowmobiler survives 1,500ft. fall into Mt. St. Helens
Snowmobile access to Mt. St. Helens questioned by Mountaineers
MOUNT SHASTA
Mt. Shasta climb highlights need for arrest skills
Five Seconds (on Mt. Shasta)© 1996 by Mike Sarmiento
MOUNT THIELSEN
Summiting Mount Thielsen
Mount Thielsen exploratory climb
Fallen solo climber on Mount Thielsen, rescued by chance encounter
MOUNT RAINIER
Climber on Mt. Rainier dies, others injured
R.J. Secor critically injured during a runaway glissade
Mount Rainer, eventually, with R.J. Secor
Mount Rainier climber killed by falling rock
Another Mt. Rainier climber dies on Liberty Ridge
DENALI AND HUNTINGTON
Bradford and Barbara Washburn revisit Mount McKinley
"Mount Huntington's West Face" by Coley Gentzel
"Friendship is the rope that binds us"
OTHER SUMMITS
Fallen solo climber on Mt. Thielson, OR, saved by passing hiker
Two climbers die in fall from Horsethief Butte Crags, WA
Fatal climbing accident at Meadow Crags near Bend Oregon
Climbing the Snow Creek Route on Mt. San Jacinto, California
Cheating death on the Snow Creek Route on Mt San Jacinto, California
Mt. Ritter 1971 tragedy provides experience for a generation of climbers
On Being and Becoming a Mountaineer: an Essay
Climber dies on the steep snow slopes of Mount McLaughlin
Report: R.J. Secor seriously injured during a runaway glissade
Mount Rainer . . . eventually, with R.J. Secor by Tracy Sutkin
Mt. Whitney's East Face Route is quicker!
Mt. Whitney's Mountaineer's Route requires skill and experience
Sierra Club climb on Middle Palisade fatal for Brian Reynolds
Runaway glissade fatal for Mazama climber on Mt. Whitney
Slip on hard snow on Snow Creek route on San Jacinto
Notable mountain climbing accidents analyzed
California fourteener provides an experience
The Mountaineers Club effects a rescue in the North Cascades
AVALANCHES
AAC Member Heidi Kloos Perishes In Avalanche
US National Avalanche Accidents Database
Avalanche kills snowmobiler near Paulina Peak
Snowshoe hiker dies in small avalanche near Wenatchee, WA
Climbers swept by avalanche while descending North Sister's Thayer Glacier Snowfield
Three personal experiences with avalanches
Mount Hood avalanche proves fatal for members of climbing group
Avalanche overtakes adventurous snowshoers in their tent
Avalanche overtakes experienced climbers on Mt. Rainier's Liberty Ridge
Avalanche overtakes snowshoers on an access road
Snowshoer dies in backcountry avalanche in Washington State
Young Bend man dies in remote backcountry avalanche
Recent deaths cause concern over avalanche beacons
Skilled member of The Mountaineers killed in avalanche
Basic Responsibilities of the cross country skier
Avalanche avoidance a practical approach to avalanche safety
Tumalo Mountain a wintertime treat
Fatal Mount Hood avalanche described by Climbing Ranger
