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The primary purpose of these experience reports and the Annual Report of Accidents in North American Mountaineering is to aid in the prevention of accidents.
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE, SEPARATED FROM PARTY, FAILED TO
FOLLOW ROUTE, NO HARD HAT
Oregon, Mount Jefferson, Whitewater Glacier
On June 24, 2001, while descending from camp after a weather-shortened climb, Robert Stockhouse (28) decided to descend via a non-standard route rather than remain with his companions who insisted on descending the route they had used to ascend from Jefferson Park to their campsite. His friends were in communication with Stockhouse via Family Radio Service radios. He reported to be clear of bad terrain and would meet them in the gully the two were descending. They never saw him in the gully, and when they arrived in Jefferson Park, they could not locate him. They assumed he had headed for the car.
When he was not found at the car, both companions returned to Jefferson Park and were again unable to locate him. As the weather deteriorated toward nightfall, they returned to the car and drove to a telephone to report Robert Stockhouse missing. The following day, his body was found at the base of a 70-foot cliff band.
While he was an experienced mountaineer, Mr. Stockhouse was not wearing a helmet while descending steep, wet rock in unfamiliar terrain. He had taken a rope from his pack to use while descending but was not wearing a harness, so it is not known for sure if he was attempting a body rappel or "fast roping." The rope was found some distance above the subject, so it appears he may have fallen before rigging the rope to himself or lost his grip on the rope, at which point he fell. Radio communication from him indicated he had successfully negotiated the worst of the terrain, but when his companions failed to meet him, further radio communication proved fruitless. When found later, his radio was turned off, leading to speculation by his companions that he may have become irritated. (Source: Bob Freund)
Report printed in the 55th edition of ANAM, year
American Alpine Club
Oregon Section of the AAC
Accidents in North American Mountaineering
What is a dulphersitz rappel?