TRADITIONAL MOUNTAINEERING
www.TraditionalMountaineering.org ™ and also www.AlpineMountaineering.org

Three Sisters Wilderness near Bend, Oregon ©
FREE BASIC TO ADVANCED ALPINE MOUNTAIN CLIMBING INSTRUCTION
Home | Information | Photos | Calendar | News | Seminars | Experiences | Questions | Updates | Books | Conditions | Links | Search

  Search this site!
Read more:

Reports providing experience from mountain climbing adventures
also check our News Section from the navigation bar above


  Chronological Postings
Lost Family trying to climb South Sister calls 911
Family of five and exhausted Great Dane dog rescued from South Sister Climber's Trail
Lost solo skier near Swampy Shelter, calls 911
Middle Sister fall claims Benjamin Newkirk of Bend, Oregon
Rescuers find overdue Broken Top climber
South Sister hiker falls near summit
Climber rescued from South Sister's east side route
Injured Climber Rescued from Smith Rock “Wherever I May Roam” climbing area
Cold Thistle, an extraordinary blog spot: Fall -Jack Roberts by Jonathon Miller
Old friends climb together to the summit Mt. Whitney in 1965
Mount Hood - Missing hiker Mary Owen found alive after six nights alone
Outward Bound in 1971, Hypothermia Claims Two
Mount Hood - Lost Hood climber posts to Facebook before rescue
San Juan Islands Solo Kayak Adventure, a Trip Report
Middle Sister solo from PCT avoids fire closures
North_Sister - Fall injures climber on east side, hoisted by helicopter crew
Mount Hood - Climber slips and slides down icy face from the Hogsback
Ranger dies during rescue of climbers on Mount Rainier
Four lost in forecast storm on Mt. Rainier-why?
Climbing Mt. Rainier - the Muir snowfield - two pdf pages
Mt. Rainier snowshoe leader falls, rescued from forecast storm, after two days
Mount Hood - Second experienced climber dies in 1,000' solo fall from the Hogback
Mount Hood - Experienced climber dies in solo fall from the Hogsback
Climber injured in fall near Smith Rock, lowered in high angle rescue
Fallen solo climber on Mount Thielsen, rescued by chance encounter
North Sister fall claims Brian Jones
Smith Rock Climbers injured by Monkey Face swing stunt
Mt. Whitney's East Face Route has objective dangers
A climb of Mt. San Jacinto by Snow Creek, in the Summer
Climbing the Snow Creek Route on Mt. San Jacinto, California
Cheating death on the Snow Creek Route on Mt San Jacinto, California
Two rescued in Three Sisters Wilderness
Bend Teen Falls Into Crevasse on South Sister
Mount Hood - Analysis of the December 2009 deaths of three climbers on Reid Glacier Headwall
Three Stranded Hikers Assisted from Atop South Sister by SAR
Two novice climbers assisted by SAR on Mt. Adams
Smith Rock climber survives 40-foot fall, rescued by SAR
Smith Rock climber rescued after 70-foot sliding fall
Several lost hiker incidents near Sisters, Oregon, resolved by SAR
Snowshoer, "lost" near Wanoga snowpark, rescued by SAR
Fallen solo climber on Mount Thielsen, rescued by chance encounter
Three Sisters Marathon with Kevin Grove and Max King
Two climbers die in fall from Horsethief Butte Crags, WA
Depot Creek Rescue
Young Smith Rock climbers become stranded on Monkey Face
Man rescued from crevasse just off South Sister climber's trail
South Sister climber injured, rescued by commercial helicopter
South Sister, solo hiker found unconscious near the summit
Mount Hood - Climber killed by summer rockfall
Mount Hood - Fatal ice fall below the Pearly Gates during warming winter weather
Mount Hood - Fatal rock fall on the Elliot Headwall during summer conditions
Mt. Hood climber falls 300 feet descending the South Side from the summit
Mt. Hood climber falls descending Mazama Chute from summit
Fatal climbing accidents on Mt. Rainier from 1897 to 1997
Climber on Mt. Rainier dies, others injured 
Lessons learned from the latest lost Mt. Hood climbers
Smith Rock - Experienced rock climber Jim Anglin dies in fall from trail
Smith Rock - Climber falls trying to clip first bolt
Death on Mt. Hood - What happened to the three North Face climbers? 
Final Report to the American Alpine Club on the loss of three climbers on Mount Hood in December 2006 
North Sister accident analyzed for ANAM by Fitz Cahall
North Sister Trip Report June 2007
Fatal climbing accident at Meadow Crags near Bend Oregon
Veteran Mt. Hood climber injured during ice axe arrest on Mt Hood
Mt. Hood climber injured by falling ice, rescued by helicopter
AAC Report: Smith Rock leader fall turns climber upside down
Three climbers, their MLU and a dog rescued on Mt. Hood 
Three North Face climbers lost on Mt. Hood 
Two climbers become lost descending Mt. Hood  
Family of five and exhausted Great Dane dog rescued from South Sister Climber's Trail
Climbing the Snow Creek Route on Mt. San Jacinto, California 
Cheating death on the Snow Creek Route on Mt San Jacinto, California
A climb of Three Fingered Jack in the Mount Jefferson Wilderness
Ten high altitude deaths on Everest confirmed for 2006 climbing season
On Being and Becoming a Mountaineer: an Essay
Climbing Mount Hood in April with Arlene Blum and friends
AAC Report - Accident on Mount Washington ends with helicopter rescue
AAC Report - Fatal fall from Three Finger Jack in the Mount Jefferson Wilderness
Three Finger Jack - OSU student falls on steep scree slope
Hiking to the summit of South Sister
Once again, cell phone alerts rescuers of injured climber
Mount Huntington's West Face by Coley Gentzel ©2005 by AAI. All Rights Reserved
Solo climber falls from Cooper Spur on Mount Hood
Climber dies on the steep snow slopes of Mount McLaughlin
Warning!! **Climbers swept by avalanche while descending North Sister's Thayer Glacier Snowfield
Mt. Whitney's East Face Route is quicker!
Mt. Whitney's Mountaineer's Route requires skill and experience
Report: R.J. Secor seriously injured during a runaway glissade
    Mount Rainer . . . eventually, with R.J. Secor by Tracy Sutkin
Warning!! ** Belayer drops climber off the end of the top rope
Runaway glissade fatal for Mazama climber on Mt. Whitney
Mt. Whitney's Mountaineer's Route from the Sierra High Route
Sierra Club climb on Middle Palisade fatal for Brian Reynolds
Mt. Ritter 1971 tragedy provides experience for a generation of climbers
Smith Rock - Fall on rock, protection pulled out
Mount Washington - Report to the American Alpine Club on a second accident in 2004
Mount Hood - Solo hiker drowns while crossing Mt. Hood's Sandy River
Mount Hood - Solo climber slides into the Bergschrund and is found the following day
Notable mountain climbing accidents analyzed 
Mount Washington - Report to the American Alpine Club on the recent fatal accident 
Mount Washington - "Oregon tragedy claims two lives"
Mount Jefferson - two climbers rescued by military helicopter
North Sister - climbing with Allan Throop
Smith Rock - Portland man hurt in fall in 1987

  MOUNT HOOD
Mount Hood - Missing hiker Mary Owen found alive after six nights alone
Mount Hood - Lost Hood climber posts to Facebook before rescue
Mount Hood - Climber slips and slides down icy face from the Hogsback
Mount Hood - Second experienced climber dies in 1,000' solo fall from the Hogback
Mount Hood - Experienced climber dies in solo fall from the Hogsback
Mount Hood - Analysis of the December 2009 deaths of three climbers on Reid Glacier Headwall
Mount Hood - Fatal ice fall below the Pearly Gates during warming winter weather
Mount Hood - Fatal rock fall below the Eliot Glacier Headwall during summer conditions
Mount Hood - Climber falls 300 feet descending the South Side from the summit
Mount Hood - Climber falls descending Mazama Chute from summit
Mount Hood - Lessons learned from the latest lost Mt. Hood climbers
Mount Hood - Two climbers become lost descending the South Side
Mount Hood - Final Report to the American Alpine Club on the loss of three climbers in December 2006
Mount Hood - Veteran climber injured during ice axe arrest on Mt Hood
Mount Hood - Climber injured by falling ice, rescued by helicopter
Mount Hood - Three climbers, their MLU and a dog "rescued"
Mount Hood - Three North Face climbers lost
Mount Hood - What happened to the three climbers on the North Face?
Mount Hood - Solo climber falls from Cooper Spur
Mount Hood - Climbing accident claims three lives -Final Report and our Analysis 
Mount Hood - Notable mountain climbing accidents Analyzed 
Mount Hood - Solo hiker drowns while crossing Mt. Hood's Sandy River
Mount Hood - Solo climber slides into the Bergschrund and is found the following day
Mount Hood - The Episcopal School Tragedy 
Mount Hood - Experienced climbers rescued from snow cave
Mount Hood - A personal description of the south side route
Mount Hood - Fatal avalanche described by Climbing Ranger
Mount Hood - Avalanche proves fatal for members of Mazamas climbing group
Mount Hood - Snowboard rider dies on Cooper Spur
Mount Hood - Fatal fall on snow, Cooper Spur Route
Mount Hood - Fatal fall on snow from the summit
Mount Hood - Climb shows the need for knowledge
Mount Hood - Climb ends in tragedy
Mount Hood - Rescue facilitated by use of a VHF radio!

  THE THREE SISTERS MARATHON
Three Sisters Marathon with Kevin Grove and Max King
The Five Sisters Marathon by Pat Creedican
North Sister and Middle Sister spring summits on telemark skis 
Middle Sister and North Sister exploratory

  BROKEN TOP
Snowshoe searchers assist overdue BrokenTop climber
Solo backcountry ski to Broken Top Bowl and return
McArthur Rim - responsible climber slips on steep hard snow
A fine winter summit of Broken Top by Eric Seyler
Broken Top - climber disappears
Broken Top - climber slips on hard snow

  SOUTH SISTER
Lost solo skier near Swampy Shelter, calls 911
South Sister Hiker falls near summit
Climber rescued from South Sister's east side Route
South Sister climber injured, rescued by commercial helicopter
Two rescued in Three Sisters Wilderness
Bend Teen Falls Into Crevasse on South Sister
Three Stranded Hikers Assisted from Atop South Sister by SAR 
Father and sons rescued descending South Sister in storm on Labor Day
Man rescued from crevasse just off South Sister climber's trail
Prospectus for a summer climb of South Sister
Hiking to the summit of South Sister
Family of five and exhausted Great Dane dog rescued from South Sister Climber's Trail
Photos of a South Sister snow-climb in June 2006
A cross country circumnavigation of South Sister in September
Once again, cell phone alerts rescuers of injured climber
South sister spring overnight snow climb for gear and skills

  MIDDLE SISTER
Middle Sister fall claims Benjamin Newkirk of Bend, Oregon
Middle Sister solo from PCT avoids fire closures
Outward Bound in 1971, Hypothermia Claims Two
Middle and North Sister exploratory adventure  
North Sister and Middle Sister spring summits on telemark skis
Middle Sister - climb proves need for equipment and experience

  NORTH SISTER
North_Sister - Fall injures climber on east side, hoisted by helicopter crew
North Sister - Fall claims Brian Jones
North Sister - Fall claims climber Dr. Bruce Shively
North Sister - Accident analyzed for ANAM by Fitz Cahall
North Sister - Trip Report June 2007
North Sister - Climbers swept by avalanche while descending Thayer Glacier Snowfield
North Sister - Climbing with Allan Throop
North Sister - Accident Report to the American Alpine Club on a fatal fall
North Sister - Fatal accident news reports on the loss of Dr. Shively
North Sister - Middle Sister - Trip Report, spring summits on telemark skis
North Sister - North Ridge Trip Report by Sam Carpenter
North Sister - Report of fatal fall from east side by Martina Testa
North Sister - SE Ridge Solo, a Trip Report by Sam Carpenter

  SMITH ROCK
Smith Rock - AAC: Inured climber rescued from ledge at Smith Rock
Smith Rock - AAC: Climber injured in fall near Smith Rock, lowered in high angle rescue
Smith Rock - Climbers injured by Monkey Face swing stunt
Smith Rock - AAC: Climber survives 40-foot fall, rescued by SAR
Smith Rock - AAC: Climber rescued after 70-foot sliding fall
Smith Rock - AAC: Climbers become stranded on Monkey Face
Smith Rock - AAC: Warning!! - Climber falls trying to clip first bolt
Smith Rock - AAC: Experienced rock climber Jim Anglin dies
Smith Rock - AAC: Leader ground fall, witness reports in 2007
Smith Rock - AAC: Leader fall turns climber upside down
Smith Rock - AAC: Warning!! - Belayer drops climber off the end of the top rope
Smith Rock - AAC: Fall on rock - protection pulled out
Smith Rock - AAC: WARNING - Belayer drops climber off the end of the top rope
Smith Rock - AAC: Inadequate top rope belay
Smith Rock - AAC: Climber injured on the approach
Smith Rock - AAC: WARNING - Belayer drops climber off the end of the top rope
Smith Rock - AAC: Belay error - novice sport climber injured
Smith Rock - AAC: Fall on rock, protection pulled out
Smith Rock - AAC: Fall on rock - poor position, inadequate protection
Smith Rock - AAC: Pulled rock off - fall on rock, failure to test holds, exceeding abilities
Smith Rock - Eye witness report of a serious fall
Smith Rock - AAC: Belay error - fatal fall on rock
Smith Rock - Portland man hurt in fall in 1987

  MOUNT WASHINGTON
Mount Washington - AAC: Matt and Joanne, Accident on traditional North Ridge Route ends with helicopter rescue
Mount Washington - News: Matt and Joanne, News reports of their serious accident
Mount Washington - AAC: BC and JWS, Leader fall, good belay, self rescue and extraction by helicopter
Mount Washington - AAC: Seifert-Gentz, Report on fatal accident while setting rappel anchor
Mount Washington - Rock and Ice, analysis of double fatality on Mount Washington
Mount Washington - News: Seifert-Gentz, Oregon tragedy claims two lives
Mount Washington - News: JM, Injured climber rescued from Mount Washington
Mount Washington - AAC: Seyler-Smith, Leader fall, protection pulled out and anchor fails - Epic accident
    Playing Icarus on Mount Washington, an Epic story by Eric Seyler for Climbing Magazine  pdf

  THREE FINGERED JACK
Trip Report: Climb of Three Fingered Jack in the Mount Jefferson Wilderness
News - Three Fingered Jack - OSU student falls on steep scree slope
AAC Report - Fatal fall from Three Fingered Jack in the Mount Jefferson Wilderness
AAC Report - Three Fingered Jack - Fatal slip on snow patch
AAC Report - Three Fingered Jack - belayed fall from The Crawl
Trip Report: Photos of climbing Three Fingered Jack, a deceptively dangerous fifth class summit
Trip Report: Photos: Climbing Three Fingered Jack
TR: Three Fingered Jack experience by Ben Siebel
TR: A violent fall on Three Fingered Jack by Julie Zeidman
A violent fall in Spain on caught on video  - WARNING - This may be disturbing! 

  MOUNT JEFFERSON
Mount Jefferson - two climbers rescued by military helicopter
Mount Jefferson - climbing accident recounted
Mount Jefferson - downclimb proves fatal to solo climber

  MOUNT ADAMS
Two novice climbers assisted by SAR on Mt. Adams
A fine Mount Adams summit by Paul Chance
Mount Adams, a fine traditional alpine mountaineering summit

  MOUNT ST. HELENS
Mount St. Helens winter ascent
Snowmobiler survives 1,500ft. fall into Mt. St. Helens
Snowmobile access to Mt. St. Helens questioned by Mountaineers

  MOUNT SHASTA
Mt. Shasta climb highlights need for arrest skills
Five Seconds (on Mt. Shasta)© 1996 by Mike Sarmiento

  MOUNT THIELSEN
Summiting Mount Thielsen
Mount Thielsen exploratory climb
Fallen solo climber on Mount Thielsen, rescued by chance encounter

  MOUNT RAINIER
Ranger lost during rescue of four climbers on Mount Rainier's Emmons Glacier
Four lost in forecast storm on Mt. Rainier-why?
Climbing Mt. Rainier - the Muir snowfield - two pdf pages
Mt. Rainier snowshoe leader falls, rescued from forecast storm, after two days
Climber on Mt. Rainier dies, others injured
R.J. Secor critically injured during a runaway glissade
Mount Rainer, eventually, with R.J. Secor 
Mount Rainier climber killed by falling rock
Another Mt. Rainier climber dies on Liberty Ridge
Fatal climbing accidents on Mt. Rainier from 1897 to 1997

  DENALI AND HUNTINGTON
Bradford and Barbara Washburn revisit Mount McKinley  
"Mount Huntington's West Face" by Coley Gentzel"
Analysis of Cost Recovery for High-altitude Rescues on Mount McKinley, Denali National Park
Friendship is the rope that binds us
 - a climb of Denali by Sierra Club climbing instructors

  OTHER SUMMITS
One of the best TRs published on their forums in the past eleven years according to CascadeClimbers.com
Cold Thistle, an extraordinary blog spot: Fall -Jack Roberts by Jonathon Miller
Old friends climb together to the summit Mt. Whitney in 1965
San Juan Islands Solo Kayak Adventure, a Trip Report
Stunning AAJ summit route photo-maps in Nepal and Kyrgyzstan
Mt. Whitney's East Face Route has objective dangers
Fallen solo climber on Mt. Thielson, OR, saved by passing hiker
Two climbers die in fall from Horsethief Butte Crags, WA
Depot Creek Rescue
Fatal climbing accident at Meadow Crags near Bend Oregon
A climb of Mt. San Jacinto by Snow Creek, in the Summer
Climbing the Snow Creek Route on Mt. San Jacinto, California
Cheating death on the Snow Creek Route on Mt San Jacinto, California
Mt. Ritter 1971 tragedy provides experience for a generation of climbers
On Being and Becoming a Mountaineer: an Essay
Climber dies on the steep snow slopes of Mount McLaughlin
Report: R.J. Secor seriously injured during a runaway glissade
     Mount Rainer . . . eventually, with R.J. Secor by Tracy Sutkin
Mt. Whitney's East Face Route is quicker!
Mt. Whitney's Mountaineer's Route requires skill and experience
Mt. Whitney's Mountaineer's Route from the Sierra High Route
Sierra Club climb on Middle Palisade fatal for Brian Reynolds
Runaway glissade fatal for Mazama climber on Mt. Whitney
Slip on hard snow on Snow Creek route on San Jacinto
Notable mountain climbing accidents analyzed
California fourteener provides an experience
The Mountaineers Club effects a rescue in the North Cascades

  AVALANCHES
"Avalanche!" A training Resource from the national Mountain Rescue Association    a 17 page manual by Charley Shimanski, in pdf
AAC Member Heidi Kloos Perishes In Avalanche
US National Avalanche Accidents Database
Avalanche kills snowmobiler near Paulina Peak
Snowshoe hiker dies in small avalanche near Wenatchee, WA
Climbers swept by avalanche while descending North Sister's Thayer Glacier Snowfield
Three personal experiences with avalanches
Mount Hood avalanche proves fatal for members of climbing group
Avalanche overtakes adventurous snowshoers in their tent
Avalanche overtakes experienced climbers on Mt. Rainier's Liberty Ridge
Avalanche overtakes snowshoers on an access road
Snowshoer dies in backcountry avalanche in Washington State
Young Bend man dies in remote backcountry avalanche
Recent deaths cause concern over avalanche beacons
Skilled member of The Mountaineers killed in avalanche
Basic Responsibilities of the cross country skier
Avalanche avoidance a practical approach to avalanche safety
Tumalo Mountain a wintertime treat
Fatal Mount Hood avalanche described by Climbing Ranger

 

Bob bivied above Milk Creek Glacier on Mt. Jefferson
Bob, overnight above Milk Creek Glacier in 1999, heading toward the summit of Mount Jefferson

 

 

 

    WARNING - *DISCLAIMER!*
Mountain climbing has inherent dangers that can in part, be mitigated!

 


Experiences