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Broken Top Winter Beta
By Eric Seyler
For the 9094 ft, south-western summit - 9-o’clock from inside crater.
Fabulous views of inside of crater, Bachelor and the Sisters. Climbing up
the ridge was scarier than the wide slopes of Adams or St Helens - speed was
checked by caution more than by physical effort. You should have this
summit to yourself.
First day:
Driving down early from Portland means you may not get a parking spot at the
Dutchman Flats Sno-Park, and Mt. Bachelor doesn’t allow overnight parking.
On the other hand, this allows time for other skiers and snowshoers to break
trail for you.
At the trail head, get each of the maps that are
in boxes on the trailhead-sign. (Geo-Graphics’ Three Sisters Wilderness
map doesn’t have all the Nordic trails in the right places.) On the
Nordic map, Broken Top is off the upper left corner. Follow trails
northwesterly, to Big Meadow Trail, then to snowmobile road going north.
Depending on how you like snowmobiles, either break NW where road turns east or
continue it to road 7 going NW. Continue NW to base of crater - around 6
miles total.
Second Day:
Recommended: one ski pole (for balance) with your crampons, axe, and shovel (for
snowpack testing). Upper slope on climber’s left averages 33 degrees.
Take the SE-pointing ramp up to the South Ridge, then continue up as high as you
can see. But wait - the summit is across a notch. Downclimbing was
scary because of soft snow - I faced in and front-pointed. Stay behind all
the boulders across the saddle - we stepped in front of one and put a foot into
a hole at least 4 feet deep. Go to top. If white-out on descent, be
mindful of the one sideways cut-out on the ridge - following your tracks will
keep you from the drop-off.
We’re in “off season” physical condition,
so you may better our times: 4 hours up, 1.5 hours down, 3 hours back to car by
snowshoe.
--Eric Seyler
Copyright, 2003 by Eric Seyler. All rights
reserved.
Looking down from the winter summit of Broken Top into the
bowl.
Photo Copyright© 2000 by Tom Michaelis. All Rights Reserved.
Read more . . .
MOUNT WASHINGTON
Mount Washington - fall on rock, protection pulled out
Playing Icarus on Mount Washington, an epic by Eric Seyler
Mount Washington - Report to the American Alpine Club on a second accident in 2004
Mount Washington - Report to the American Alpine Club on the recent fatal accident
Mount Washington - Oregon tragedy claims two lives
Injured climber rescued from Mount Washington
CASCADES SUMMITS
Photos of a South Sister snow-climb in June 2006
Photos of Central Oregon from an ultralight aircraft
Views of the Oregon Cascades in the summer and fall
Views of the Cascades from the ridge above Three Creek Lake
Summits of the Oregon Cascades from Tumalo Mountain in February 2005
A snowshoe summit of Vista Butte off Cascades Lakes Highway near Bend, OR
Mt. Bachelor, the Three Sisters and Broken Top
Photos of the Three Sisters Wilderness Summits form Sparks Lake
Geocaching the Top of Black Crater
Overlooking the Three Sisters from Mt. Bachelor
Three Sisters summits
Scott shares his summits of Middle Sister and Mt. Thielsen
PROFESSIONAL PHOTOGRAPHERS
Ben Moon, MoonFoto
Bruce Jackson Photography
Aerial photos of the Cascades summits by Mark and Jody Tuttle
NORTH SISTER
Timberline Mountain Guides lead North Sister climbs
North Sister, the Terrible Traverse in September, 1999
Middle and North Sister exploratory adventure
North Sister and Middle Sister spring summits on telemark skis
North Sister, Scott's solo summer summit
North Sister exploratory
North Sister winter solo
North Sister: crux photos of the Three Sisters Marathon
North Sister by the south east ridge
MIDDLE SISTER
Middle and North Sister exploratory adventure
North Sister and Middle Sister spring summits on telemark skis
Middle Sister spring summit
SOUTH SISTER
The Fall Creek Trail to Moraine and Green Lakes near Bend Oregon
Photos of a South Sister snow-climb in June 2006
A cross country circumnavigation of South Sister in September
Climbing South Sister - a spring snow summit to 10,385'
South sister spring overnight snow climb, gear and skills
South Sister Summer Summit
South Sister climbers trail relocated
South Sister Spring South Ridge Summit
BROKEN TOP
Hiking to the glacial tarn below Broken Top in the Three Sisters Wilderness
A cross country circumnavigation of Broken Top in late summer with friends
Broken Top north side, with Z21 TV
Broken Top winter summit with Eric Hoffman
Climbing to the summit of Broken Top
Climbing Broken Top with Eric Seyler
Todd Lake, a gateway to Broken Top
Broken Top circumnavigation
Climbing Broken Top in the winter
MT BACHELOR
North American Pond Skimming Contest at Mt. Bachelor
Mt. Bachelor ski and summer resort during the Atta Boy 300
Atta Boy 300 dog sled race start and finish from Mt. Bachelor
Overlooking the Three Sisters from Mt. Bachelor
Mt. Bachelor from Tumalo Ridge
Photos of the melted snow pack near Mt Bachelor
TUMALO MOUNTAIN
Summits of the Oregon Cascades from Tumalo Mountain in February 2005
Tumalo Mountain across from Mt. Bachelor
A spring climb of Tumalo Mountain near Mt. Bachelor
THE THREE SISTERS MARATHON
The Five Sisters Marathon by Pat Creedican
North Sister and Middle Sister spring summits on telemark skis
Middle Sister and North Sister exploratory
BROKEN TOP
Solo backcountry ski to Broken Top Bowl and return
McArthur Rim - responsible climber slips on steep hard snow
A fine winter summit of Broken Top by Eric Seyler
Broken Top - climber disappears
Broken Top - climber slips on hard snow
MIDDLE SISTER
Middle Sister - climb proves need for equipment and experience
NORTH SISTER
Climbers swept by avalanche while descending North Sister's
Thayer Glacier Snowfield
North Sister - climbing with Allan Throop
North Sister - accident report to the American Alpine Club
North Sister fatal accident news reports
North Sister and Middle Sister spring summits on telemark skis
North Sister, North Ridge by Sam Carpenter
North Sister, the Martina Testa Story, by Bob Speik
North Sister, SE Ridge solo by Sam Carpenter