TRADITIONAL MOUNTAINEERING
™
www.TraditionalMountaineering.org
™  and also 
www.AlpineMountaineering.org
™
 ™
™
FREE BASIC TO ADVANCED 
ALPINE MOUNTAIN CLIMBING INSTRUCTION™
Home
 
	 | Information
	 | Photos
	 | Calendar
	 | News
	 | Seminars
	 | Experiences
	 | Questions
	 | Updates
	 | Books
	 | Conditions
	 | Links
	 | Search
   	 
Father and sons rescued climbing South Sister in storm on Labor Day
Rescuers looking for three lost near South Sister
Posted: Aug 31, 2008 11:58 PM PDT 
From KTVZ.COM news sources
Deschutes County Sheriff's Search and Rescue crews worked late in the night 
Sunday to find and assist three people near the South Sister who apparently lost 
their way - and also reported some late-August snowfall.
Dispatchers said the three people were on their way down when it began to snow 
and they apparently lost their way.
At last report, SAR crews said they believed they were close to the missing 
trio. We'll have more details as they become available.
The rescue effort came amid cold temperatures for this time of year. The 
National Weather Service issued a freeze warning for Central Oregon through 8 
a.m. Monday.
Redmond plunged to a record 29 degrees early Sunday, smashing its old record low 
for Aug. 31 of 32, set back in 1964.
http://www.ktvz.com/global/story.asp?s=8930865
Said they were heading back down when snow began to 
fall
By Barney Lerten, KTVZ.COM
A late-August snowfall almost proved tragic, but a cell phone was a godsend for 
three hikers who became lost on the South Sister Trail Sunday evening. It took 
searchers nearly eight hours to find the three - wet, cold and tired, but 
otherwise alright, officials said.
Deschutes County 911 got a call shortly before 7 p.m. from the hikers, seeking 
assistance, said sheriff's Sgt. Scott Shelton.
The caller said they were trying to return to the Green Lakes trailhead in the 
Three Sisters Wilderness Area when they became unsure of their location, Shelton 
said. The caller also said they were at about 8,600 feet in elevation, and that 
the weather had changed, and it was now snowing.
"The hikers also had limited cell phone contact, as the phone they were carrying 
was losing battery power," Shelton wrote in a news release Monday.
A U.S. Forest Service employee in the general area began the search before 
Sheriff's Search and Rescue teams mobilized, Shelton said. That Forest Service 
worker eventually found the hiker.
Sheriff's deputies and nine initial SAR searchers responded to the area, Shelton 
said, adding that deputies had intermittent phone contact with the hikers 
throughout the night, until their cell pone finally ran out of battery power.
The hikers were located around 2:30 a.m., between the Lewis and Clark glaciers 
at about 9,050 feet in elevation, Shelton said. They "were wet, cold and tired, 
with no apparent injuries," Shelton said - but their location sparked some 
concern, due to nearby unstable ground and cliffs.
The rescuers provided warm, dry clothing, shelter and food to the stranded 
hikers, the sergeant said. Once stabilized, they were assisted down the trail, 
to the area of Moraine Lake, where they were met by members of the SAR horse 
team.
By late morning, they were being escorted the rest of the way down the trail, to 
the Devils Lake trailhead, Shelton said, adding that 17 SAR members had been 
involved in the operation.
The rescue effort came amid very cold temperatures for this time of year. The 
National Weather Service issued a freeze warning for Central Oregon through 8 
a.m. Monday.
Redmond plunged to a record 29 degrees early Sunday, smashing its old record low 
for Aug. 31 of 32, set back in 1964.
http://www.ktvz.com/global/story.asp?s=8930865
Trail Tips for September 10, 2008 by 
Chris Sabo, Trails/Wilderness, Deschutes National Forest
"Just a reminder for this 
time of year, the weather can change in short order as plenty of trail users 
found out over Labor Day weekend.  Well over 100 South Sister hikers found out 
just how fast as the morning of Aug. 31 started out cool but sunny and ended up 
with snow, winds and low visibility developing at higher and even some mid 
elevations.   Snow flurries were reported that evening down to 5,400’.  Most 
South Sister hikers opted on the side of safety and turned around before 
reaching the summit, but a few did persist.  The earlier hikers made the summit 
before visibility dropped with snow starting falling about 1 pm.  Most hikers 
bailing after the snow started were not prepared for the conditions".
"Three hikers chose to continue to the summit late in the afternoon in degrading conditions; they too were not prepared for snow/wet/windy conditions. On reaching the summit at about 5 pm in near zero visibility, they become disoriented and were unable to locate the trail they had just climbed. The trio came off the top somewhere to the west of the trail and soon realized they were lost. About 2:30 am (8 hours after calling in on a cell phone that ultimately lost battery life) a Deschutes County Sheriff Search and Rescue team and Forest Service located the hikers who were wet, cold, lost and stuck at the base of a cliff. In the end, they were warmed, recovered and were led out by rescuers after sunrise. The situation could have been quite different had one or two of the hikers taken a fall and been injured or killed, stumbling around in the dark with snow flurries. Fortunately for them, where they were stopped by a cliff was also a good bivy spot mostly out of the weather. Had they spent much more time wandering in the cold and dark, advanced hypothermia and frostbite likely would have been the price they paid. Again, these hikers were not fully prepared for the conditions, hiking in mostly cotton clothing and light weather gear and pushing the conditions".
"These recent accidents are 
a reminder to all trail users, whether by foot, paddle, peddle or hoof, to take 
extra care in being prepared for expected and unexpected conditions. If the 
trail or water you are using is unfamiliar to you, seek out the conditions and 
what you’re up against and if it’s even doable. Also remember to keep your 
limits and the limits of others in your group in mind. This time of year the 
days are getting shorter and nights colder; adverse weather, even snow, can be 
come in with little warning. Think about if you were forced to spend a night out 
with freezing temperatures, do you have the gear and knowledge on any given 
trip? Did you remember to file a “flight plan” with a friend or family member 
and what they should do should you not return on time? What if you or someone in 
your party are injured or fall ill, can you handle it? Cell phones and other 
high tech communication devices are helpful and even life savers, when they work 
and you have reception. If they fail, are you prepared?  Search and Rescue teams 
work hard to reach those in need in  a timely manner. But, they may take several 
hours or more to organize and access many remote (even some close in) locations. 
If directions are fuzzy or not known, weather poor, it could be a day or several 
before locating those in need. Again, in some instances be prepared to spend a 
night out".
--Chris Sabo
What can be learned from this Rescue?
 Webmeister's Note- So you thought our 
Prospectus suggestions for climbing South Sister were "overkill"?
The lessons learned from this experience are:
1. Always take your cell phone, fully charged. (Leave it turned off if you 
really know where you are, if not, leave it turned on because the cell company 
may be 
able to track you from cell tower pings - Read More.)
2. A GPS will not help if you do not know how to use it, and if you do not have 
a USGS or equal topo map of your adventure. These folks did not mention a map, 
but said they had a compass and a GPS but apparently did not know how to use 
them.
3. If you leave a mountain top a few degrees off of the ridge you used to 
ascend, you may be miles off at the bottom of the mountain. Always mark your 
entre/exit to the summit plateau.
4. Never wear cotton clothing on a long hike or climb - it gets wet and sucks 
heat from your body at a rate some 20 times that of bare skin alone. Note: The 
father of the two sons with him on this mis-adventure said they were wearing 
cotton clothing and that they got very cold in the blowing snow at 2:30 AM. He 
said they had a compass and a GPS but did not mention a map or the skills to use 
them together.
5. If you are not prepared with the seasonal Ten Essential Systems, give up the 
summit and return another day. The summit will always be there to enjoy during 
your life- time.
Read our "Media Advisory below!
Our thanks to Barney Lerten, KTVZ.COM, for featuring this story. Barney has noted the use of cell phones to resolve accidents in our backcountry for several years. Please let him know you appreciate his responsible journalism!
Recent Federal secrecy and privacy guidelines (HIPPA) prevent any persons who 
may be a "care giver" from giving out even the most basic information to the 
public, including the traditional names and home towns of the patients, what 
happened and what injuries they sustained.
We called Redmond Fire Department about another rock climbing accident at Smith Rock 
and we were told by the "Public Information Officer" that we could have only the 
information that Redmond Fire and Rescue had picked up a patient at Smith and 
transported that patient to the hospital in Redmond. (We did find the contact 
information for the "patient" (the accident victim) and we will pass along a 
good bit of basic Smith Rock climbing experience in a few days on this website.)
--Webmeister Speik
 
A suggested minimum standard Media Advisory for all backcountry travelers
"We would like to take this opportunity to ask our visitors to the backcountry of Eastern Oregon to plan for the unexpected. Each person should dress for the forecast weather and take minimum extra clothing protection from a drop in temperature and possible rain or snow storm or an unexpected cold wet night out, insulation from the wet ground or snow, high carbohydrate snacks, two quarts of water, a map and compass and optional inexpensive GPS and the skills to use them, and a charged cell phone turned on and perhaps an inexpensive walkie-talkie radio to contact companions. Carry the traditional personal "Ten Essentials" in a light weight day pack sized for the season and the forecast weather.
Visitors are reminded to tell a Responsible Person where they are going, where they plan to park, when they will be back and to make sure that person understands that they are relied upon to call 911 at a certain time if the backcountry traveler has not returned"
THE MISSION of TraditionalMountaineering.org
"To provide information and instruction about world-wide basic to advanced alpine mountain climbing safety skills and gear, on and off trail hiking, scrambling and light and fast Leave No Trace backpacking techniques based on the foundation of an appreciation for the Stewardship of the Land, all illustrated through photographs and accounts of actual shared mountaineering adventures."
TraditionalMountaineering is founded on the premise that "He who knows naught, knows not that he knows naught", that exploring the hills and summitting peaks have dangers that are hidden to the un-informed and that these inherent risks can be in part, identified and mitigated by mentoring: information, training, wonderful gear, and knowledge gained through the experiences of others.
The value of TraditionalMountaineering to our Friends and Subscribers is the selectivity of the information we provide, and its relevance to introducing folks to informed hiking on the trail, exploring off the trail, mountain travel and Leave-no-Trace light-weight bivy and backpacking, technical travel over steep snow, rock and ice, technical glacier travel and a little technical rock climbing on the way to the summit. Whatever your capabilities and interests, there is a place for everyone in traditional alpine mountaineering.

 
 
 WARNING - *DISCLAIMER!*
 
WARNING - *DISCLAIMER!*
Mountain climbing has inherent dangers that can, only in part, be mitigated
Read more . . .
Photos of a climb of South Sister
What do you carry in your summer day pack?
FREE Clinic on Real Survival Strategies and Staying Found with Map, Compass and GPS together
Trail runner survives fall on ice with cell phone call
Climber on Mt. Rainier dies of hypothermia in brief storm. What happened
Mount Hood climber falls descending Mazama Chute from the summit
Wildland Fire Use in the Three Sisters Wilderness
Mt. Hood climber killed by summer rockfall
Barack Obama talks about Patriotism, a ten minute video speech!
Recent rescues, tragedies spur hiker-safety reminders on KTVZ
Polycarbonate bottles may be bad for your health
Once again, hypothermia kills stranded Oregon driver
Pomona College Magazines Expert Advice from Robert Speik Class of '50
Staying found in the backcountry with map, compass and GPS
Why are "Emergency Kits" dangerous?
What essentials do I carry in my own lightweight winter day pack?
What clothing do you wear for Light and Fast winter mountaineering?
Gear and clothing used by Steve House and Vince Anderson on Nanga Parbat
      2 short videos
Topographic maps of the backcountry work with your compass and GPS
Why is the GSM digital cell phone best for backcountry travel and mountaineering?
How do GSM mobile phones assist mountaineering and backcountry rescues?
What is the best GPS for mountaineering and backcountry travel?
        
 What is the best Compass for mountaineering and backcountry travel?
       
What is the UTM Grid?  
    six pdf pages    
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
What does Steve House wear for light and fast climbing?
What do you carry in your winter day pack?
          Photos?
          
Why are "Snow Caves" dangerous?
Why are "Space Blankets" dangerous?
Why are "Emergency Kits" dangerous?
How can you avoid Hypothermia?
Missing climbers on Mount Hood, one dies of exposure, two believed killed in fall
Missing California family found, dad dies from exposure and hypothermia
Missing man survives two weeks trapped in snow-covered car
Missing snowmobile riders found, Roger Rouse dies from hypothermia
Olympic Champion Rulon Gardner lost on snowmobile!
Lost Olympic hockey player looses feet to cold injury
Expert skier lost five days near resort in North Cascades without map, compass, gps or cell phone
Mount Hood - The Episcopal School Tragedy
Mount Hood - experienced climbers rescued from snow cave
How can you learn the skills of snow camping?  
    Prospectus
 
ABOUT ALPINE MOUNTAINEERING
 
The Sport of Alpine Mountaineering
  
Climbing Together
 
Following the Leader
 
The Mountaineers' Rope
 
Basic Responsibilities
  
The Ten Essential Systems
  
Our Mission

 
THE ESSENTIAL PAPERWORK
  
    Suggested Leader Guidelines   
Suggested information you should receive from your organized Leaders
  
     
    Sign-in Agreements, Waivers and Prospectus    
    This pdf form will need to be signed by you at the trail head
  
     
    Sample Prospectus   
    Make sure every leader tells you what the group is going to do; print a copy for your "responsible person"
  
     
    Participant Information Form   
    This pdf form can be printed and mailed or handed to the Leader if requested or required
  
     
    Emergency and Incident Report Form   
    Copy and print this form. Carry two copies with your Essentials 
    

  
     
    Participant and Group First Aid Kit   
    Print this form. Make up your own first aid essentials (kits) 
    

 ESSENTIAL PERSONAL CLOTHING AND GEAR
Why is the GSM digital cell phone best for backcountry and mountaineering?
What does Steve House wear for light and fast climbing?
What clothing do you wear for Light and Fast winter mountaineering?
What do you carry in your winter day pack?
          Photos?
          
Which digital camera do you use in the mountains?
What about Boots and Shoes?
       
 YOUR ESSENTIAL DAY PACKS
What are the new Ten Essential Systems?
What does experience tell us about Light and Fast climbing?
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
What is Light and Fast alpine climbing?
What do you carry in your day pack?
         Photos?
        
What do you carry in your winter day pack?
          Photos?
       
Why are "Emergency Kits" dangerous?
What should I know about "space blankets"?
Leave no Trace with Restop bags
Mountaineering blue bag, WAG bag and Restop bag waste solutions in 1985
Where can I get a personal and a group first aid kit?
         Photos?
 YOUR LITE AND FAST BACKPACK
Which light backpack do you use for winter and summer?
       Analysis  
    pdf  
    
What would you carry in your backpack to climb Shasta or Adams?
      
Leave no Trace with Restop bags
Mountaineering blue bag, WAG bag and Restop bag waste solutions in 1985
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
Photos of lite gear packed for a multi day approach to spring and summer summits
Backpack lite gear list for spring and summer alpine mountaineering
       4 pdf pages
 CARBORATION AND HYDRATION
Is running the Western States 100 part of "traditional mountaineering"?
What's wrong with GORP?   
    Answers to the quiz!
Why do I need to count carbohydrate calories?
What should I know about having a big freeze-dried dinner?
What about carbo-ration and fluid replacement during traditional alpine climbing?   
    4 pages in pdf  
    
What should I eat before a day of aerobic climbing?
 
REAL SURVIVAL STRATEGIES
Why is the GSM digital cell phone best for backcountry and mountaineering?
FREE Clinic on Real Survival Strategies and Staying Found with Map, Compass and GPS together
What do you carry in your winter day and summit pack?
Why are "Snow Caves" dangerous?
Why are "Space Blankets" dangerous?
Why are "Emergency Kits" dangerous?
How can you avoid Hypothermia?
Missing climbers on Mount Hood, one dies of exposure, two believed killed in fall
Missing California family found, dad dies from exposure and hypothermia
Missing man survives two weeks trapped in snow-covered car
Missing snowmobile riders found, Roger Rouse dies from hypothermia
Olympic Champion Rulon Gardner lost on snowmobile!
Lost Olympic hockey player looses feet to cold injury
Expert skier lost five days near resort in North Cascades without map, compass, gps or cell phone
Mount Hood - The Episcopal School Tragedy
Mount Hood - experienced climbers rescued from snow cave
How can you learn the skills of snow camping?  
    Prospectus
 BACKCOUNTRY NAVIGATION
Topographic maps of the backcountry work with your compass and GPS
Why is the GSM digital cell phone best for backcountry travel and mountaineering?
What is a PLB?
What is the best GPS for mountaineering and backcountry travel?
        
 What is the best Compass for mountaineering and backcountry travel?
      
How accurate is the inexpensive hand-held GPS today?
What are some good Central Oregon Geocaches?
What is the Public Land Survey Grid?  pdf
What is the UTM Grid?  six pdf pages
        
How do you use your map, compass and GPS together, in a nut shell?
        
How can I learn to use my map, compass and GPS?
Do you have map, compass and GPS seminar notes?  six pdf pages
 ALPINE CLIMBING ON SNOW AND ICE
Winter mountaineering hazards - streams and lakes
Is long distance backpacking part of "traditional mountaineering"?
How long is the traditional alpine mountaineering ice axe?
What about climbing Mt. Hood?
What is a good personal description of the south side route on Mount Hood?
What should I know about travel over hard snow and ice?
How can I learn to self belay and ice axe arrest?  
    6 pdf pages   
    
What should I know about snow caves?
What should I know about climbing Aconcagua?
 AVALANCHE AVOIDANCE
Young Bend man dies in back county avalanche
What is an avalanche cord?
Avalanche training courses - understanding avalanche risk
How is avalanche risk described and rated by the professionals?
       pdf table 
How can I avoid dying in an avalanche?
Known avalanche slopes near Bend, OR?
Can I avoid avalanche risk with good gear and seminars?
      pdf file
 SNOWSHOES AND CRAMPONS
Why do you like GAB crampons for traditional mountaineering?
What should I know about the new snowshoe trails
What are technical snowshoes?
Which crampons are the best?
What about Boots and Shoes?
       
 TECHNICAL MOUNTAINEERING
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
    What is the best belay | rappel | autoblock device for traditional alpine mountaineering?
What gear do you normally rack on your traditional alpine mountaineering harness?
        Photos?
        
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering seat harness?
       Photos?   
 Can I use a Sharpie Pen for Marking the Middle of the Climbing Rope?
What are the highest peaks in Oregon?
      Alphabetically?