Ice axe arrest and snow climbing training on South Sister

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South Sister spring overnight snow climb for gear and skills
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Packing (way over) 40 pounds each, plus 4 pounds of water!

Packing 26 pounds including a quart of water, plus 5 pounds on the belly!

A 28 pound pack, suitable for an overnight spring climb of Adams or Shasta. Read more!

You'll need a map, compass and gps and the skill to use them!

At the moraine headwall and paying the price for luxury. Note the great bandana!

A reward for this adventure.

Room for two with a view.

The rewards of luxury packing.

A Spartan solo setup for light and fast pack'n.

The North Face storm proof Soloist Bivy, classic Blue Kazoo 20 degree down bag,
ThermaRest Guide-Lite three quarter pad and RidgeRest pad and Platypus one liter water bag.

Essential stuff that was in the bivy with me for the night.

Heavy kitchen. Only one backup stove is needed.
MSR at left is shielded and is used to boil water for food and drinks.

A light kitchen and water maker for three. Note that the snow is just melted and then filtered, not boiled, saving heavy liquid fuel.
MSR Dragonfly stove, pot and heat exchanger, Nalgene and Platypus bags, and Katadyn Mini filter.

Jim having breakfast in the morning sun.
This image Copyright© 2004 by Jeanne Russell. All Rights Reserved.

Bob with oatmeal and walnuts for breakfast.
This image Copyright© 2004 by Jeanne Russell. All Rights Reserved.

Bob and Jim consulting the gps to find the way back to camp.
This image Copyright© 2004 by Jeanne Russell. All Rights Reserved.

Late afternoon view of South Sister along the approach route.

Late afternoon view of Broken Top.

Mt. Bachelor behind Devil's Peak

Early morning view of South Sister from above Moraine Lake.

Ice axe arrest practice on a very steep slope, don't believe the camera.

Arresting from head down and on the back fall.
1. Arresting from a fall head down and on the back. 2. Completed arrest in good position.

Getting up in self belay position.

A huge polished glacial sport left over from a few thousand years ago.
Copyright© 2004 - 2009 by Robert Speik. All Rights Reserved.

Overnight camping on the consolidated snow above Moraine Lake
Early in June we practiced the technical skills for climbs of Mt. Shasta, Mt. Adams and Mt Jefferson on the flats and slopes above Moraine Lake in the Three Sisters Wilderness. The weather was great, the snow was perfect; no crampons were needed although we had them in case the weather cooled. The consolidated spring snow accepted a kicked edge going up in the morning and a plunge step going down in the afternoon. The Cascade Lakes Highway to the Sparks Lake trail head had been open for two days.

The photos above show both light and heavy (luxury) gear. On a related page, I am doing a list of "light and fast, fit and experienced", basic to advanced traditional alpine mountaineering gear for a two or three day peak bagging adventure.

As a bonus, I have copied below the FAQ answer I did on "What do you carry in your winter summit pack?" All you need for an overnight or two is some more light stuff, like a good light back-pack, down bag, a good weather proof bivy or light single wall tent, some long underwear to keep the bag clean.

What do you carry in your early spring day pack?
The inside scoop:
Total weight to find your way is 8 oz: map, M3D leader compass, (whistle) and Garmin eTrex GPS-
Total weight of the personal, always carried first aid items in a Ziploc is 3.5 oz. Carry it in your Essentials sack-
Total weight of the Essentials is 8.5 oz plus the essential cell phone at 3 oz-
Gorp bag with some carbos as shown is 6 oz. (Add a couple more traditional Clif Bars and a bagel and string cheese for lunch)-
Essential year-round hats and gloves are 7 oz-
Additional winter hats, gloves and a scarf always carried in winter, total 8 oz. (The winter OR gaiters are worn, not carried)-
Summer, fall or winter down jacket insulation, one always carried, about 1 pound at the bottom of the pack-
Gore-Tex TNF Pack-lite® pants and jacket, always carried in winter as my wind and rain protection, total 2 pounds-
Total of the above including the essential GoLite Wisp wind shirt at 5.5 oz, is just 5 pounds 12 ounces!

Add two quarts of water in Platypus bags, 4 pounds-
Add a winter pad, say a Cascades Designs three-quarter RidgeRest, 9 ounces-
Add the weight of the Black Diamond Sphynx 35L day pack at 2 pounds, 7 ounces-
Total of the basic winter day pack is 12 pounds, 12 ounces

More water:
Add an MSR Dragon Fly, 17 ounces plus bottle and fuel, and a quart pot with top to melt snow-
and/or a Katadyn Mini water filter at 8 ounces for spring snow melt-

Add outside the pack, partly worn or carried:
Lifelink snow shovel, 1 pound, 4.5 ounces-
GAB snap on 12 point crampons, 2 pounds, 8 ounces-
Black Diamond mountaineering ice axe 80cm, 2 pounds, 2 ounces-
Approach poles, three part, 1 pound, 6.5 ounces-
TSL technical snowshoes are 4 pounds, 2 ounces-

Add the weight of technical climbing gear:
8.5mm rope, alpine harness, biners, sewn slings, snow anchors, rescue pulleys, etc. as needed for an interesting summit attempt!
--Bob Speik

WARNING - *DISCLAIMER!*
Mountain climbing has inherent dangers that can in part, be mitigated

ALPINE CLIMBING ON SNOW AND ICE
Winter mountaineering hazards - streams and lakes
Is long distance backpacking part of "traditional mountaineering"?
How long is the traditional alpine mountaineering ice axe?
What about climbing Mt. Hood?
What is a good personal description of the south side route on Mount Hood?
What should I know about travel over hard snow and ice?
How can I learn to self belay and ice axe arrest? 6 pdf pages
What should I know about snow caves?
What should I know about climbing Aconcagua?

AVALANCHE AVOIDANCE
Young Bend man dies in back county avalanche
What is an avalanche cord?
Avalanche training courses - understanding avalanche risk
How is avalanche risk described and rated by the professionals? pdf table
How can I avoid dying in an avalanche?
Known avalanche slopes near Bend, OR?
What is a PLB?
Can I avoid avalanche risk with good gear and seminars? pdf file

SNOWSHOES AND CRAMPONS
Why do you like GAB crampons for traditional mountaineering?
What should I know about the new snowshoe trails
What are technical snowshoes?
Which crampons are the best?
What about Boots and Shoes?

YOUR ESSENTIAL SUMMIT PACK
What are the new Ten Essential Systems?
What does experience tell us about Light and Fast climbing?
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
What is Light and Fast alpine climbing?
What do you carry in your day pack?    Photos?
What do you carry in your winter day pack?     Photos?
Why are "Emergency Kits" dangerous?
What should I know about "space blankets"?
Leave no Trace with Restop bags
Mountaineering blue bag, WAG bag and Restop bag waste solutions in 1985
Where can I get a personal and a group first aid kit?    Photos?

YOUR LITE AND FAST BACKPACK
Which light backpack do you use for winter and summer?    Analysis   pdf
What would you carry in your backpack to climb Shasta or Adams?
Leave no Trace with Restop bags
Mountaineering blue bag, WAG bag and Restop bag waste solutions in 1985
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
Photos of lite gear packed for a multi day approach to spring and summer summits
Backpack lite gear list for spring and summer alpine mountaineering    4 pdf pages

ESSENTIAL PERSONAL GEAR
Why is the GSM digital cell phone best for backcountry and mountaineering?
What does Steve House wear for light and fast climbing?
What clothing do you wear for Light and Fast winter mountaineering?
What do you carry in your winter day pack? Photos?
Which digital camera do you use in the mountains?
What about Boots and Shoes?

The Three Sisters and Broken Top
South Sister, Middle Sister, North Sister (the sinister sister) and Broken Top in the Three Sisters Wilderness near Bend, Oregon USA
Copyright© 2004 - 2009 by Robert Speik. All Rights Reserved.