TRADITIONAL MOUNTAINEERING
www.TraditionalMountaineering.org ™ and also www.AlpineMountaineering.org

Three Sisters Wilderness near Bend, Oregon ©
FREE BASIC TO ADVANCED ALPINE MOUNTAIN CLIMBING INSTRUCTION
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A light and fast backpack around South Sister near Bend
An overnight backpack to Moraine Lake on South Sister in June

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Climbing together on Broken Top
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  Photos of mountaineering adventures:    07.01.09
       Steep snow climbing Class of 2009  star
       Photos of all stages of the Pole Peddle Paddle  star
       Fobbits-BLM volunteer Badlands "Wilderness Restoration"
       Photos of a summer climb of South Sister in the Three Sisters Wilderness
       Retro-bolting Meadow Crags with local climbers and The Access Fund  star
       USFS Volunteer Training near Oakridge Ranger Station
       Rafting the John Day River with Ouzel and pulling fence with ONDA
       American Alpine Club's Annual Meeting in Bend OR  star
       Redmond Fire Department rescues a senior hiker at Smith Rock
       The classic Snow Creek Route, a 10,000 foot gain!  star
       Climbing to the summit of Mt. Jefferson
       Snow Camping Seminar, from bivy to base camp
       Views of the Oregon Cascades in the summer and fall
       Three Finger Jack, a deceptively dangerous summit
       The Fall Festival takes over downtown Bend Oregon
       Cascade Cycling's Twilight Criterium in downtown Bend
       HERA Climb for Life Event at Smith Rock State Park
       Smith Rock Spring Thing!
       BARK club adventure race near Smith Rock
       Pulling barbed wire on the Hart Mountain Antelope Refuge with ONDA
       Winter summits of the Oregon Cascades from Tumalo Mountain
       Navigation Noodle with map, compass and GPS in The Badlands   star
       An overnight cross country circumnavigation of South Sister!  star
       A cross country circumnavigation of Broken Top across the Bend Glacier!
       X-Adventure Raid Adventure Race North America qualifier in Bend!
       Barack Obama's 2008 Town Hall Meeting in Bend, Oregon  star  star
       Mountain Link Senior Guide JJ Justman's Mt. Everest summit!
       Spring snow climbing and ice axe arrest Seminar
       Middle and North Sister summer climbing adventure 
       Mt. Adams summer snow summit 
       Climbing Mount Thielsen and Broken Top 
       South Sister spring-snow overnight for gear and skills
       The essential contents of back and summit packs  star

Maps:   reviewed 07.01.09
       Official USFS winter recreation trails west of Bend star  star
       New color maps of Nordic and snowshoe trails - printable with UTMs!
       2007 USFS recreation trails map for the forest near Bend
       Map of proposed Skyline Forest between Bend and Sisters
       Badlands non-motorized trails just east of Bend
       Raid Adventure race course map in the mountains west of Bend

  Information:    reviewed 07.01.09
          About alpine mountaineering:
        Traditions, ethics, essentials, responsibilities and more

          Leader's guidelines: 
        Carry our SAR request/WFA form   star
        Assemble your traditional mountaineering first aid kit(s)

         About our World Wide Website: 
        Read about our website Awards, and more
        Our subscriber's discounts at favorite stores

 
Warning - *Disclaimer*:     reviewed 07.01.09
  Calendar:   07.01.09
        Together with Bend's nice weather!    no popups, no advertising, ever!

 
News:    07.01.09
        Robert Speik writes: "There is no denying the sense of cell" for The Mountaineers
        Robert Speik writes about the Ten Essential Systems for The Mountaineer Magazine
        The Oregon Badlands Wilderness signed into law
        Three rescued from South Sister in snow storm on Labor Day
        Mt. Hood climber killed by summit icefall on blue bird day
        Man rescued from crevasse just off South Sister climber's trail, child dies
        Proposed Tumalo Recreation Zone in the Deschutes National Forest
        Remembering Jim Witty, 1958-2008
        Pomona College Magazine: Expert Advice from Robert Speik, Class of '50
        Lessons learned from the latest lost Mt. Hood climbers
        Lessons learned from the latest lost Christmas tree hunters
        Use your cell phone for backcountry adventures and mountaineering  star
        Oregon HB 2509 mandates electronic signaling devices on Mt. Hood - climbers' views
        Climbing party "saved" by big warm dog and cell phone on the ski slopes of Mt. Hood!
        Mount Hood - What happened to the three North Face climbers in December 2006?   star
        Missing California family found, father dies from hypothermia in quest to find help
        Missing snowmobilers found, Roger Rouse dies from hypothermia
        American Alpine Club's "Trad Award" for "mentoring" goes to Robert Speik!
        Bend's Mountain Link team puts four on Everest's summit!   star
        Royal Robbins speaks on "40 Years of Adventure", in Bend, Oregon
        Steve House of Bend Oregon and Vince Anderson summit Rupal Face in alpine style
        Tommy Caldwell free climbs both The Nose and Freerider in a day
        BLM closes Bend's Badlands WSA to motorized vehicle use
        OSU graduate slips from Three Fingered Jack
        North Sister climbers swept away by Spring avalanche
        R.J. Secor seriously injured during a runaway glissade
        Mount Washington claims two climbers
        Steens Big Indian Gorge backpack adventure
  Field Seminars:    
07.01.09
        Free - Rappelling from basic to advanced!
        Free - Winter camping from bivy to base camp!
        Free - Steep snow climbing and ice axe arrest seminars!
        Free - Two days cross country around South Sister
        Free - Broken Top Circle on trails, snow, rock and glacier ice
        Free - Navigation Noodle™ in The Badlands

 
Recommended Classes:    reviewed 07.01.09
         Map, compass and GPS together:    star
         Real Backcountry Survival Strategies:      Wilderness First Aid: 
         Traditional basic mountaineering gear and skills classes:    star
  Seminar Handouts:    reviewed 07.01.09
        Using map, compass and GPS together, twelve pdf pages
        Gear list for climbs of Mts. Shasta and Adams, four pdf pages  star
        Understanding and avoiding death from Hypothermia, two pdf pages
 
        Climbing steep snow slopes, five pdf pages
        Carbo-ration and Hydration in alpine mountaineering, six pdf pages Carboration and hydration in one big drink!
  Experiences:       07.01.09
        Climber dies from hypothermia in overnight storm on Mt. Rainier: Analysis  
        Experienced rock climber Jim Anglin dies at Smith Rock
        Analysis of the deaths of three climbers on Mount Hood  
        Trip Report on climbing North Sister in June
        Fitz Cahall: Accident at the summit of North Sister
        Slip on Three Finger Jack takes OSU graduate
        Mt. Whitney's east face route is quickest!
        Climbing the 10,000' Snow Creek Route on Mt. San Jacinto
        Climbers swept down by avalanche on North Sister
        Accident Report on R.J. Secor's runaway glissade
        Report on the most recent Mount Washington tragedy
        Accident Reports to the American Alpine Club
        Reports that provide experience from the adventures of others

  Questions:     07.01.09
        Choose the best new GPS for backcountry and mountaineering
        SPOT Satellite Messenger "PLB" reviewed and recommended
        What do you carry in your summer day pack? Plus photos of this gear!
        What clothing system do you wear for winter adventures?  

        Which topographic maps work with your compass and GPS?
        How do you use your $6 map, $30 compass and $100 GPS together?
        What is a "GSM digital" cell phone for mountaineering and backcountry travel?  star
        Why is an "emergency kit" dangerous?  star
        Why is a "space blanket" dangerous?
        What about climbing Mt. Hood?
        What's in the best backpack for Mt. Adams? Plus photos!
        What is the best compass and GPS?
        What do you carry in your winter day pack? Plus photos!
        What is the best traditional mountaineering ice axe?
        What gear do you rack on your alpine harness?

  Email updates:     reviewed 07.01.09
        Contact us for information on these good deals:
        Black Diamond Raven Ice Axes up to 90cm, $80.00!
        SPOT GPS Communicator, $100.00!

  Books:    
reviewed 06.14.09
        Reviews and a BIBLIOGRAPHY, as well!  pdf
        "Mountaineering, The Freedom of the Hills", 7th Edition, required reading

        "Accidents in North American Mountaineering, 2009", recommended reading
        "Beyond Risk, Conversations with Climbers", recommended
        "Extreme Alpinism" by Mark Twight and James Martin, recommended
        "Alpine Climbing" by Mark Houston and Kathy Cosley, recommended
        The 1972 Chouinard Catalog of clean new hexentrics, pitons, harnesses and more!
  Seasonal trail conditions Report:      last received 04.21.09 
         
Chris Sabo's USFS latest trail conditions:      last received 06.16.09   star
  Selected Links:     links updated 06.22.09
        More than 311 selected and indexed links you will like!
   star
  Contact us!     reviewed 07.01.09

  Translate our website!     reviewed 07.01.09

 

OUR MISSION
"To provide information and instruction about world-wide basic to advanced alpine mountain climbing safety skills and gear, and on and off trail hiking, scrambling and light and fast Leave No Trace backpacking techniques based on the foundation of an appreciation for the Stewardship of the Land,
all illustrated through photographs and accounts of actual shared mountaineering adventures."


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TraditionalMountaineering.org and Robert Speik have been quoted in "Outside", "Climbing", "Rock and Ice" and "Backpacker" magazines and
Accidents in North American Mountaineering, Pomona College Magazine, Cascades East Magazine, The Bulletin, The Oregonian,
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Access Fund "Sharp End Award" goes to Robert Speik in 2000!
Honored with the 2006 Oregon Section American Alpine Club's "Trad Award" for mentoring mountaineers and climbers!
Special Mention in "Accidents in North American Mountaineering' 1999 to 2008!

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