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"So, you want to climb the Mountaineer’s Route in winter?"
Posted by Bob R
Ridgecrest, CA
Saturday, April 16, 2005
"I always cringe when I read such questions as “I plan to do the Mountaineer’s
Route next week; do I need a rope or crampons?” Or “Should I go up the first
chute or take the traverse?” Or “What’s the avalanche danger up there?” Or any
of a number of similar questions, most of which have only subjective answers.
By my count I have climbed the MR over 30 times, a good number of them being
winter ascents. So I know it pretty well.
I cannot say it more clearly than this: The MR in winter is a prime example of
something that only experienced mountaineers, who are skilled in technical
winter mountaineering, should undertake. You need both the background to know
what to do and how to do it, and the breadth and depth of experience with ice
ax, crampons, and snow and ice rope work, to be able to do it safely. You must
have practiced self-arrests repetitively, and you need to have the maturity,
wisdom, and foresight to back off or change your plan if the conditions or
weather dictate. Most often the situation is not this severe, but you always
need to be ready for it. Climbing the MR in summer will not prepare you, nor
will winter hiking with the occasional use of crampons and ice ax under benign
conditions.
One caveat: There is nothing wrong with going with those—such as a reliable
guide service or qualified friends—who do have the skill, experience, and
equipment, and who will make sure you do the right things and protect you if
necessary.
People say they want to do the MR because it is shorter than the trail. That’s a
true statement, but there are other vastly more important differences. The
upshot is that there have been many more people killed on the MR than the trail,
even though it has far less activity. If one guesses the danger of death on the
trail to be X, then it is my opinion that the danger of death on the MR is at
least 20X and may be of the order of 100X.
Skilled winter mountaineers have been injured or have died there, but it is safe
to say that far more relative novices have suffered those fates. I am not
sitting in judgment on the two recent fatalities, because I do not know their
mountaineering backgrounds. Perhaps they were fully qualified and just unlucky,
but I read some things in the accounts that I would never, ever, do myself. In
any case, these incidents are truly tragic, and—while we cannot have the depth
of sorrow and loss of their families and friends—we who go into these mountains
always feel a special anguish when a tragedy occurs in the high places we love
so much.
Sometimes the questions on this board are legitimately posed by people who do
have the skills and experience, and they are simply trying to get data on
current conditions. But if you are asking because you really don’t know what the
climb entails, you are cautioned to do easier winter mountain ascents first. A
whole lot of them.
One immense problem with these message boards is that you usually don’t know the
background or qualifications of those who post. It goes both ways. If, to a
question about the MR, someone gives an answer, how do you know to trust what
they say? Moreover, how can someone give such advice when they don’t know the
background of the one asking the question in the first place?
These issues are also valid for summer ascents, but are particularly important
for winter. Not only are accidents more likely in winter, but also the outcome
is far more apt to be serious.
Sorry for the lecture, but I see too many people taking this climb too casually
these days. If you think I am being an alarmist, catch me out there someday and
I will tell you a few stories."
“The mountains are calling, and I must go.”
--John Muir
Mt. Whitney, The Sierra Nevada & Beyond . . .
http://www.mt-whitney.info/viewtopic.php?t=503
WARNING - *DISCLAIMER!*
Mountain climbing has inherent dangers that can in part, be mitigated
Read more . . .
MOST RECENT
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Glacier Snowfield
Mt. Whitney's East Face Route is quicker!
Mt. Whitney's Mountaineer's Route requires skill and experience
Report: R.J. Secor seriously injured during a runaway glissade
Mount Rainer . . . eventually, with R.J. Secor by Tracy Sutkin
Warning!! ** Belayer drops climber off the end of the top rope ** WARNING!!
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Sierra Club climb on Middle Palisade fatal for Brian Reynolds
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Notable mountain climbing accidents analyzed
Mount Washington - Report to the American Alpine Club on the recent fatal accident
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North Sister - climbing with Allan Throop
MOUNT HOOD
NORTH SISTER
Climbers swept by avalanche while descending North Sister's
Thayer Glacier Snowfield
North Sister - climbing with Allan Throop
North Sister - accident report to the American Alpine Club
North Sister fatal accident news reports
North Sister and Middle Sister spring summits on telemark skis
North Sister, North Ridge by Sam Carpenter
North Sister, the Martina Testa Story, by Bob Speik
North Sister, SE Ridge solo by Sam Carpenter
SMITH ROCK
Warning!! ** Belayer drops climber off the end of the top rope ** WARNING!!
Smith Rock - Fall on rock, protection pulled out
Smith Rock - WARNING - belayer drops climber off the end of the top rope
Smith Rock - inadequate top rope belay
Smith Rock - climber injured on the approach
Smith Rock - WARNING - belayer drops climber off the end of the top rope
Smith Rock - belay error - novice sport climber injured
Smith Rock - fall on rock, protection pulled out
Smith Rock - fall on rock - poor position, inadequate protection
Smith Rock - pulled rock off - fall on rock, failure to test holds, exceeding abilities
Smith Rock - belay error - fatal fall on rock
MOUNT WASHINGTON
Mount Washington - Report to the American Alpine Club on a second accident in 2004
Mount Washington - Report to the American Alpine Club on the recent fatal accident
Mount Washington - Oregon tragedy claims two lives
Injured climber rescued from Mount Washington
Mount Washington - fall on rock, protection pulled out
Playing Icarus on Mount Washington, an epic by Eric Seyler
OTHER SUMMITS
Report: R.J. Secor seriously injured during a runaway glissade
Mount Rainer . . . eventually, with R.J. Secor by Tracy Sutkin
Mt. Whitney's East Face Route is quicker!
Mt. Whitney's Mountaineer's Route requires skill and experience
Sierra Club climb on Middle Palisade fatal for Brian Reynolds
Runaway glissade fatal for Mazama climber on Mt. Whitney
Slip on hard snow on Snow Creek route on San Jacinto
Notable mountain climbing accidents analyzed
California fourteener provides an experience
The Mountaineers Club effects a rescue in the North Cascades
