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Three climbers killed in North Cascades
Seattle Post-Intelligencer
Monday, July 11, 2005
MARBLEMOUNT, Wash. -- Rescuers used helicopters Monday to evacuate three
climbers from the scene of rock falls that killed three other members of their
party, North Cascades National Park officials said.
One of those evacuated, a man, was being treated for head injuries. The other
two were uninjured, park officials said.
The six-member party was climbing Sunday in the area of Sharkfin Tower, about 20
miles east of Marblemount, park spokesman Tim Manns said.
He identified two of the dead as Mark Harrison of Bellevue and Jo Backus of
Tacoma. Manns identified the uninjured climbers as Michael Hannam of Olympia and
Janel Fox of Seattle. Their ages were not immediately available.
The names of the third climber killed and of the injured climber also were not
immediately available. Manns said the injured man was airlifted to Harborview
Medical Center in Seattle, passing in and out of consciousness during the night.
Early reports indicated that he "seemed to be doing all right," Manns said. "It
was a long, difficult night to make it through, and he did."
Hannam and Fox did not require medical treatment, and were with National Park
Service officials at their Marblemount office, he said.
The climbers were on a trip organized by The Mountaineers group for a climbing
class, Seattle director Steve Costie said. The deaths were "the worst disaster
ever" for the organization, which has chapters across Washington and conducts
yearlong training sessions for new members.
"We don't take it lightly. These people are in it like apprentices and they work
their way up," Costie said. "You can't do it overnight, so we take a lot of time
with them."
The climbers were descending from Sharkfin Tower on Sunday afternoon when
Backus, the group leader and one of three instructors on the climb, was injured
in a rock fall.
The team had moved her to a different area to provide aid when they were struck
by a second, larger rock fall, Manns said. Two climbers apparently died in the
second rockfall, and a third died during the night, he said.
Rangers learned of the accident from other climbers who reported it using a cell
phone.
A guide from Alpine Ascents International assisted the Mountaineers party after
the accident, program director Gordon Janow said. That guide, Pat Timson, sent
the two climbers he was with down to base camp and returned to help.
Timson spent the night at the scene, and was in contact with his wife, another
Alpine Ascents guide, by cell phone, Janow said.
"Our guides are all basically wilderness first responders, so we sent the
climbers down and sent the guide back up there," Janow said.
Rain overnight hindered additional rescue efforts, but rangers were able to send
a helicopter to the site after daybreak, Manns said. Climbing rangers remained
on the scene to help evacuate the three bodies, Manns said.
Sharkfin Tower's elevation is 8,120 feet. It is located along a ridge of peaks
in the Boston Basin area, 90 miles northeast of Seattle. Manns said it's a
popular climbing destination in the park.
#########
Group leader had special way of dealing with climbing's dangers
Seattle Post-Intelligencer
Tuesday, July 12, 2005
SEATTLE -- After 41 years of marriage, Jim and Jo Backus had
a special way of facing the dangers of mountain climbing, Jo's other love.
"We'd say to each other, 'Everybody dies sooner or later'," Jim Backus said
Monday, "but if it's sooner, you'd better be doing something you really, really
love."
Backus and their three grown children, Dean, Sara and Emily, are now dealing
with the reality of that approach following Jo's death Sunday in rockfalls in
North Cascades National Park.
In addition to team leader Backus, two other climbers were killed when a
refrigerator-sized boulder struck the party: Mark Harrison, 35, of Bellevue, and
John Augenstein, 42, of Seattle. Three others survived the ordeal.
"I usually worried about broken legs and things like that, nothing like this,"
Jim Backus said. "But climbing was her love, her passion.
Jo Backus, 61, of University Place, was a former president of The Mountaineers'
Tacoma chapter. A passionate volunteer, she is going to "leave the biggest hole"
in the community, said fellow member Helen Engle, secretary for the Tacoma
branch.
"She gave of herself everywhere she went. She had so many great ideas and got
people to do stuff that they might not otherwise have done," Engle said.
Martha Scoville, a board member of the Tacoma group, said she and Backus spent
Friday working on a Habitat for Humanity housing project.
"She's really a leader in anything she does. We broke off into little teams, and
she was in there organizing people. She was among the last to leave," Scoville
said. "She and I were checking to make sure things were done. That's the way she
was, very thorough, very conscientious."
Backus, a registered nurse, worked at Tacoma General Hospital as a lactation
nurse and at Mary Bridge Children's Hospital as an on-call staff nurse for
nearly 25 years.
The deaths Sunday were the "the worst disaster ever" for the century-old,
Seattle-based Mountaineers climbing and outdoor-recreation club, which organized
the trip, said executive director Steve Costie.
Backus's first climbing feat was to reach the top of Mount Rainier in 1986.
Since then, she has summited nearly 200 peaks throughout the West. She was a
member of the Tacoma Mountaineers for 19 years and the chapter's first female
president in 1993.
Jim Backus describes himself as a stay-at-home dad when it came to
mountaineering.
Rainier became an obsession for Jo, he said.
Driving on Interstate 5 past the Tacoma Dome, "You can look up and see Mount
Rainier. That's what did it for her. She looked at the mountain and just decided
she wanted to climb it," he said. "That was 200 mountains ago."
http://seattlepi.nwsource.com/local/aplocal_story.asp?category=6420&slug=WA%20Climbing%20Deaths
Note: Risk is a part of traditional mountaineering and risks can only be mitigated in part, even by the most experienced climbers. --Webmeister Speik
Read more . . .
Mazamas
Sierra club, Angeles Chapter
American Alpine Club
Oregon Section of the AAC
Accidents in North American Mountaineering
About Alpine Mountaineering:
The Sport of Alpine Mountaineering
Climbing Together
Following the Leader
The Mountaineers' Rope
Basic Responsibilities
Cuatro Responsabiliades Basicas de Quienes Salen al Campo
The Ten Essentials
Los Diez Sistemas Esenciales
Avalanche avoidance
How can I avoid dying in an avalanche?
Avalanche training courses - understanding avalanche risk
How is avalanche risk described and rated by the
professionals? pdf table
Known avalanche slopes near Bend, OR?
What is a PLB?
Can I avoid avalanche risk
with good gear and seminars? pdf file
Mountaineering Accidents in the recent News
Solo climber falls
from Cooper Spur on Mount Hood
Climber dies on the steep snow slopes of Mount McLaughlin
Climbers swept by avalanche while descending North Sister's Thayer
Glacier Snowfield
Wilderness Travel Course Newsletter
this is a large PDF file
Runaway glissade fatal for Mazama climber on Mt. Whitney
Yosemite's El Capitan tests rescuers' skills
Climbers fall from Mount Hood's Sandy Glacier Headwall
Solo hiker drowns while crossing Mt. Hood's Sandy River
Injured climber rescued from Mount Washington
Mt. Washington tragedy claims two climbers
Another Mt. Rainier climber dies on Liberty Ridge
Mt. Rainier climber dies after rescue from Liberty Ridge
Young hiker suffers fatal fall and slide in the Three Sisters Wilderness
North Sister claims another climber
Solo climber Aron Ralston forced to amputate his own arm
Portland athlete lost on Mt. Hood
Broken Top remains confirmed as missing climber
Grisly find: hikers on Broken Top find apparent human remains
Once again, cell phone alerts rescuers of injured climber
Storm on Rainier proves fatal
Mountain calamity on Hood brings safety to the fore!
Fall into the Bergschrund on Mt. Hood, rescuers crash!
Paying the price for rescue
Accidents in North American Mountaineering
Goran Kropp killed while rock climbing in Washington
Avalanches
Climbers swept by avalanche while descending North Sister's Thayer
Glacier Snowfield
Snowshoer dies in backcountry avalanche in Washington State
Young Bend man dies in remote backcountry avalanche
Recent deaths cause concern over avalanche beacons
Skilled member of The Mountaineers killed in avalanche
Basic Responsibilities of the cross country skier
Avalanche avoidance a practical approach to avalanche safety
Tumalo Mountain a wintertime treat
North
Sister
Climbers swept by avalanche while descending North Sister's
Thayer Glacier Snowfield
North Sister - climbing with Allan Throop
North Sister - accident report to the American Alpine Club
North Sister fatal accident news reports
North Sister and Middle Sister spring summits on telemark skis
North Sister, North Ridge by Sam Carpenter
North Sister, the Martina Testa Story, by Bob Speik
North Sister, SE Ridge solo by Sam Carpenter
Other Summits
Report: R.J. Secor seriously injured during a runaway glissade
Mount Rainer . . . eventually, with R.J. Secor by Tracy Sutkin
Mt. Whitney's East Face Route is quicker!
Mt. Whitney's Mountaineer's Route requires skill and experience
Sierra Club climb on Middle Palisade fatal for Brian Reynolds
Runaway glissade fatal for Mazama climber on Mt. Whitney
Slip on hard snow on Snow Creek route on San Jacinto
Notable mountain climbing accidents analyzed
California fourteener provides an experience
The Mountaineers Club effects a rescue in the North Cascades
Mount Washington
Mount Washington - Report to the American Alpine Club on a second accident in 2004
Mount Washington - Report to the American Alpine Club on the recent fatal accident
Mount Washington - Oregon tragedy claims two lives
Injured climber rescued from Mount Washington
Mount Washington - fall on rock, protection pulled out
Playing Icarus on Mount Washington, an epic by Eric Seyler