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Climber Dead, one Injured on Mt Hood's Sandy Glacier
Thursday, November 4, 2004
(Updated 11/5/04)
News Release by Portland Mountain Rescue
An early season climbing accident took the life of one mountaineer and
seriously injured another during a climb of the Sandy Headwall on Mount Hood's
northwest face.
It is not yet known exactly how the accident occurred, but the two men fell 300
to 500 feet from the Sandy Headwall route and slid at high speed into a 40-foot
deep crevasse on the Sandy Glacier, near 8,500 feet in elevation.
The least injured climber was able to place a cell phone call to 9-1-1 around
11:30 AM. Subsequently, the Clackamas County Sheriff's Office launched a rescue
mission and summoned Portland Mountain Rescue and American Medical Response
(AMR) shortly after noon.
Initially, little was known about the climbers' location, but Steve Rollins, a
PMR rescue leader, was able to make direct phone contact with the climbers and
learned that they were near the Sandy Headwall - a very remote area of Mount
Hood (see map above). Rollins quickly passed this information to the Sheriff's
Office and advised the mobilization of air support to reach the victims in the
fastest possible time.
The first rescuers to reach the mountain were a PMR volunteer and professionals
from the AMR Reach and Treat (RAT) Team. RAT Team paramedic Dave Mull and PMR
rescuer Matt Cline received a sno-cat ride to Illumination Saddle and proceeded
to cross the Reid Glacier and Yocum Ridge on foot in order to reach the scene.
This process took nearly five hours.
While the two-man team was traversing the mountain's West Face, a UH-60
Blackhawk helicopter from the Oregon Army National Guard 1042nd Air Ambulance
Unit ferried PMR rescuers Bob Brownback and Marty Johnson from Timberline Lodge
to the Sandy Glacier. The least injured climber crawled out of the crevasse and
successfully directed the helicopter to the remote location. As Portland area
residents watched a live television feed from a Newschannel 8 helicopter, the
PMR team and one National Guard medic were lowered into the crevasse.
After discovering the other climber had no pulse, the rescuers performed CPR
until it was obvious that the patient could not be revived. The cause of death
is not yet known.
During this time, the Blackhawk returned with two AMR RAT Team paramedics and
the team's attention turned to the surviving climber. He was suffering from
multiple broken bones and other possible injuries, so the rescuers packaged the
man in a litter for transport to Portland. The helicopter delivered the patient
to Emanuel Hospital around 6:20 PM. He is expected to completely recover from
his injuries.
The body of the deceased climber, as well as the rescue teams, were air lifted
to Mount Hood's Timberline Lodge around 9:00 PM, bringing the more than 9-hour
rescue mission to a close.
The 11,239-foot mountain recently received large accumulations of snow, but the
conditions at the time of the accident were relatively good for early November.
Both climbers were experienced.
Even though the victims were able to summon help using a cell phone, they failed
to register at the Timberline Lodge climbing register prior to their climb. Had
rescuers been unable to contact the man on his phone, it would have been next to
impossible to determine the location of the accident. PMR encourages all
climbers and hikers to complete the free registration prior to entering the
Mount Hood Wilderness. Registration can help save a life should an accident
occur.
Help support this volunteer rescue service
Read more . . .
About Alpine Mountaineering:
Interesting essays reviewed 08.11.04
The Sport of Alpine Mountaineering
Climbing Together
Following the Leader
The Mountaineers' Rope
Basic Responsibilities
The Ten Essentials
Our Mission
Mount
Hood
Mount Hood - climber rescued after thirty
hours
Mount Hood -
climbers fall from Sandy Glacier Headwall
Mount Hood - solo hiker drowns while
crossing the Sandy River
Mount Hood - notable mountain climbing
accidents analyzed
Mount Hood - The Episcopal School Tragedy
Mount Hood - experienced climbers rescued from snow cave
Mount Hood - a personal description of the south side route
Mount Hood - climbing accident claims three lives -Final Report and our Analysis
Mount Hood - fatal avalanche described by Climbing Ranger
Mount Hood - avalanche proves fatal for members of Mazamas climbing group
Mount Hood - snowboard rider dies on Cooper Spur
Mount Hood - fatal fall on snow, Cooper Spur Route
Mount Hood - fatal fall on snow from the summit
Mount Hood - climb shows the need for knowledge
Mount Hood - climb ends in tragedy
Mount Hood - rescue facilitated by use of a VHF radio
Cascades Summits
Bruce Jackson Photography
Mt. Bachelor, the Three
Sisters and Broken Top
Photos of the Three Sisters Wilderness Summits form Sparks Lake
Geocaching
the Top of Black Crater
Overlooking the
Three Sisters from Mt. Bachelor
Three Sisters summits
Aerial photos of the
Cascades summits by Mark and Linda Tuttle
Scott shares his summits of Middle Sister and Mt.
Thielsen
Middle and North Sister
exploratory adventure
Mountaineering Accidents
Injured climber
rescued from Mount Washington
Mt. Washington
tragedy claims two climbers
Another Mt. Rainier climber dies on Liberty
Ridge
Mt. Rainier climber dies after
rescue from Liberty Ridge
Young hiker
suffers fatal fall and slide in the Three Sisters Wilderness
North
Sister claims another climber
Solo climber Aron Ralston forced to amputate his own arm
Portland athlete lost on Mt. Hood
Broken Top remains confirmed as missing climber
Grisly find:
hikers on Broken
Top find apparent human remains
Once again, cell phone alerts rescuers of injured climber
Storm on Rainier proves fatal
Mountain
calamity on Hood brings safety to the fore!
Fall into the Bergschrund on Mt. Hood, rescuers crash!
Paying the price for rescue
Accidents in North American Mountaineering