™TRADITIONAL MOUNTAINEERING™
www.TraditionalMountaineering.org™ and also
www.AlpineMountaineering.org™
™
FREE BASIC TO ADVANCED ALPINE MOUNTAIN CLIMBING INSTRUCTION™
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Copyright© 2003-2006 by Robert Speik. All Rights Reserved.
The inside scoop:
Total weight to find your way is 8 oz: map, M3 Pro
compass, whistle and Garmin eTrex GPS-
Total weight of the personal, always carried, first aid items in a Ziploc is 3.5
oz. Carry it in your Essentials sack-
Total weight of the Essentials is 14.5 oz plus the essential cell phone at 6 oz-
Gorp sack with some Cliff Bars is 6 oz. (Add a bagel and string cheese for lunch)-
Essential year-round hats and gloves are 7 oz-
Additional winter hats, gloves and a scarf always carried in winter, total 8 oz-
Summer, fall or winter down "belay" jacket insulation, about 1 pound at the bottom of the pack-
Gore-Tex Pack-lite® pants and jacket, always carried in winter as my wind and rain protection, total 2 pounds-
Total of the above including the essential wind shirt at 4 oz, is just 5 pounds
14.5 ounces!
Add two quarts of water in Platypus bags in the top pocket, 4 pounds-
Add a winter pad, say a Cascades Designs three-quarter
RidgeRest, 9 ounces-
Add the weight of the Black Diamond Sphynx 35L pack at 2 pounds,
7
ounces-
Total of the basic winter day pack with lunch and water is 12 pounds, 13.5 ounces
before possible snow climbing gear!
More water needed:
Add an MSR Dragon Fly, 17 ounces plus bottle and Colman fuel, and a quart pot with
top to melt snow-
and/or a Katadyn Mini water filter at 8 ounces for spring snow
melt-
Add outside the pack, snow climbing gear partly worn or
carried as shown above:
Lifelink snow shovel, 1 pound, 4.5 ounces-
GAB "snap on" 12 point crampons, 2 pounds, 8 ounces-
Black Diamond Raven Pro mountaineering ice axe 80cm, 1 pound for 75cm length-
Leki Air Ergo3 approach poles, three part, 1 pound, 2 ounces-
TSL technical snowshoes are 4 pounds, 2 ounces, not widely available today-
or MSR Denali snowshoes, 4 pounds-
MSR Coyote 24 inch snow picket, 13 ounces as shown-
Add technical climbing gear:
8.5mm rope, alpine harness, biners, webbing, snow anchors, rescue pulleys, etc.
for an interesting summit attempt!
Read more:
TECHNICAL MOUNTAINEERING
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
What is the best belay | rappel | autoblock device for traditional alpine mountaineering?
What gear do you normally rack on your traditional alpine mountaineering harness?
Photos?
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering seat harness?
Photos?
Can I use a Sharpie Pen for Marking the Middle of the Climbing Rope?
What are the highest peaks in Oregon?
Alphabetically?
CARBORATION AND HYDRATION
Is running the Western States 100 part of "traditional mountaineering"?
What's wrong with GORP?
Answers to the quiz!
Why do I need to count carbohydrate calories?
What should I know about having a big freeze-dried dinner?
What about carbo-ration and fluid replacement during traditional alpine climbing?
4 pages in pdf
What should I eat before a day of alpine climbing?
ALPINE CLIMBING ON SNOW AND ICE
Winter mountaineering hazards - streams and lakes
Is long distance backpacking part of "traditional mountaineering"?
How long is the traditional alpine mountaineering ice axe?
What about climbing Mt. Hood?
What is a good personal description of the south side route on Mount Hood?
What should I know about travel over hard snow and ice?
How can I learn to self belay and ice axe arrest?
6 pdf pages
What should I know about snow caves?
What should I know about climbing Aconcagua?
AVALANCHE AVOIDANCE
Young Bend man dies in back county avalanche
What is an avalanche cord?
Avalanche training courses - understanding avalanche risk
How is avalanche risk described and rated by the professionals?
pdf table
How can I avoid dying in an avalanche?
Known avalanche slopes near Bend, OR?
What is a PLB?
Can I avoid avalanche risk with good gear and seminars?
pdf file
SNOWSHOES AND CRAMPONS
Why do you like GAB crampons for traditional mountaineering?
What should I know about the new snowshoe trails
What are technical snowshoes?
Which crampons are the best?
What about Boots and Shoes?
YOUR ESSENTIAL SUMMIT PACK
What are the new Ten Essential Systems?
What does experience tell us about Light and Fast climbing?
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
What is Light and Fast alpine climbing?
What do you carry in your day pack?
Photos?
What do you carry in your winter day pack?
Photos?
What should I know about "space blankets"?
Where can I get a personal and a group first aid kit?
Photos?
YOUR LITE AND FAST BACKPACK
Which light backpack do you use for winter and summer?
Analysis
pdf
What would you carry in your backpack to climb Shasta or Adams?
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
Photos of lite gear packed for a multi day approach to spring and summer summits
Backpack lite gear list for spring and summer alpine mountaineering
4 pdf pages
ESSENTIAL PERSONAL GEAR
What does Steve House wear for light and fast climbing?
What clothing do you wear for Light and Fast winter mountaineering?
What do you carry in your winter day pack?
Photos?
Which digital camera do you use in the mountains?
What about Boots and Shoes?
TRADITIONAL KNOWLEDGE
How did you become interested in traditional mountaineering techniques?
Who is Conrad Messner?
What is traditional slacklining or highlining?
What are some of the comments you have received?
Who was Peter Starr?
Who are the Mazamas?
What is an avalanche cord?
Who were the notorious Vulgarians?
How was top rope climbing practiced in the 1970s?
What is a Whillans sit harness?
What is a dulfersitz rappel?
How do I self-belay a rappel?
BACKCOUNTRY NAVIGATION
How accurate is the inexpensive hand-held GPS today?
Can you get me a $30 rebate on your favorite GPS: Garmin's Legend?
pdf form
What are some good Central Oregon Geocaches?
What is the Public Land Survey Grid?
pdf
What is the UTM Grid?
six pdf pages
Which GPS do you like?
Which Compass do you like?
How do you use your map, compass and GPS together, in a nut shell?
How can I learn to use my map, compass and GPS?
Do you have map, compass and GPS seminar notes?
six pdf pages
