TRADITIONAL MOUNTAINEERING
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What is a Whillans sit-harness?

THE WHILLANS SIT HARNESS 
"Chouinard and others are positively opposed to harnesses and such contraptions, but as a concession to Frost, (who has sold out to the British technocracy,) the Whillans Sit Harness is herein offered to American climbers. It provides greater comfort than the Swami Belt for falling, taking tension and belaying on inadequate stances"

CHOUINARD EQUIPMENT CATALOG, 1972 
A quote from the past from this collectors item!


--On Belay! Bob Speik
Copyright© 2000-2007 by Robert Speik. All Rights Reserved.

 

Sitting hip belay to a bowline-on-a-coil
Rope tied around the waist, sitting hip belay. Who needs a harness?

 

 

 

    WARNING - *DISCLAIMER!*
Mountain climbing has inherent dangers that can in part, be mitigated

 

Read more . . .
Traditional mountaineering rappel practice in June 2008
Fatal climbing accident at Meadow Crags near Bend Oregon
Adopt a Crag Rebolting Project at Meadow Crags
The Access Fund Adopt a Crag event at Meadow Crags
Traditional Mountaineering Rappelling Seminar at Meadow Crags
CMC high angle rescue seminar at Meadow Crags

CMC Rescue, Inc. in Santa Barbara, CA

  FAQ RELATED, WINTER
Climbing the Snow Creek Route on Mt. San Jacinto, California
South sister spring overnight snow climb, gear and skills
An emergency snow cave in the fall 2003
NOAA Windchill Chart   pdf
Photos of the melted snow pack near Mt Bachelor
Snowmachines used as a tool in traditional mountaineering
Contents of a winter summit pack
Crampons for traditional mountaineering
A map of some known avalanche slopes near Bend
Avalanche descriptors
Lute Jerstad conducting a traditional crevasse rescue class in 1973

  FAQ RELATED, SUMMER
CMC High Angle Rope Rescue class in Bend
What is the best summit pack?
South sister spring overnight snow climb, gear and skills
How do you put together a first aid kit?
How do you rack gear on your alpine harness?
What do you carry in your day pack?
Belaying the leader and follower in 1981
Top rope climbing in the 1970's

  FREE SEMINARS
Traditional Mountaineering rappelling seminar at Meadow Crags
USFS Volunteer Training near Oakridge Ranger Station
Becoming an Outdoors Woman learning backcountry navigation in La Pine Oregon
Snow camping from bivy to base camp
Map, compass and GPS navigation training Noodle in The Badlands
Snow climbing training with Mountain Link
Ice axe self belay and self arrest seminar
Traditional snow climbing training: snow anchors and rappels
Glacier travel and crevasse rescue seminar
Bend High invites an old traditional mountain climber
A Navigation Noodle in the Badlands with ONDA
A free guided tour of The Badlands with ONDA
Wilderness Navigation Noodle Seminar
A Sunriver thank you 

  CASCADES SUMMITS
Photos of a South Sister snow-climb in June 2006
Photos of Central Oregon from an ultralight aircraft
Views of the Oregon Cascades in the summer and fall
Views of the Cascades from the ridge above Three Creek Lake
Summits of the Oregon Cascades from Tumalo Mountain in February 2005
A snowshoe summit of Vista Butte off Cascades Lakes Highway near Bend, OR
Mt. Bachelor, the Three Sisters and Broken Top
Photos of the Three Sisters Wilderness Summits form Sparks Lake
Geocaching the Top of Black Crater
Overlooking the Three Sisters from Mt. Bachelor   
Three Sisters summits  
Aerial photos of the Cascades summits by Mark and Jody Tuttle
Scott shares his summits of Middle Sister and Mt. Thielsen

  PROFESSIONAL PHOTOGRAPHERS
Ben Moon, MoonFoto
Bruce Jackson Photography
Mike Putnam Photography
Photos of Central Oregon from an ultralight aircraft by Q

  NORTH SISTER
Timberline Mountain Guides lead North Sister climbs
North Sister, the Terrible Traverse in September, 1999
Middle and North Sister exploratory adventure   
North Sister and Middle Sister spring summits on telemark skis
North Sister, Scott's solo summer summit
North Sister exploratory
North Sister winter solo
North Sister: crux photos of the Three Sisters Marathon
North Sister by the south east ridge

 MIDDLE SISTER
Middle Sister, Oregon, photos of this mountaineering summit in June 2007
Middle and North Sister exploratory adventure  
North Sister and Middle Sister spring summits on telemark skis
Middle Sister spring summit

 SOUTH SISTER
Climbing South Sister - a spring snow summit to 10,385'
The Fall Creek Trail to Moraine and Green Lakes near Bend Oregon
Photos of a South Sister snow-climb in June 2006
A cross country circumnavigation of South Sister in September
South sister spring overnight snow climb, gear and skills
South Sister Summer Summit
South Sister climbers trail relocated
South Sister Spring South Ridge Summit

  BROKEN TOP
Hiking to the glacial tarn below Broken Top in the Three Sisters Wilderness
A cross country circumnavigation of Broken Top in late summer with friends
Broken Top north side, with Z21 TV
Broken Top winter summit with Eric Hoffman
Climbing to the summit of Broken Top
Climbing Broken Top with Eric Seyler
Todd Lake, a gateway to Broken Top
Broken Top circumnavigation
Climbing Broken Top in the winter

  MT BACHELOR
North American Pond Skimming Contest at Mt. Bachelor
Mt. Bachelor ski and summer resort during the Atta Boy 300
Atta Boy 300 dog sled race start and finish from Mt. Bachelor
Overlooking the Three Sisters from Mt. Bachelor   
Mt. Bachelor from Tumalo Ridge
Photos of the melted snow pack near Mt Bachelor

  TUMALO MOUNTAIN
Summits of the Oregon Cascades from Tumalo Mountain in February 2005
Tumalo Mountain across from Mt. Bachelor
A spring climb of Tumalo Mountain near Mt. Bachelor

  MOUNT HOOD
Climbing Mount Hood in May
Mount Hood, south side route in June
Climbing Mount Hood in July
Mount Hood, Eliot glacier ice travel practice
Recent accident on Mt. Hood

 MT JEFFERSON  
Climbing Mount Jefferson in July 2004
Mt. Jefferson winter summit Eric Hoffman

  THREE FINGER JACK
Climbing Three Finger Jack, a deceptively dangerous fifth class summit
Three Finger Jack

  MT WASHINGTON  
Geocaching the summit of Belknap Crater in the Mt. Washington Wilderness

  MOUNT ST HELENS   

  MT. ADAMS
Mt. Adams, a fine traditional alpine mountaineering summit
Mt. Adams by the Mazama Glacier Route

  MT THIELSEN
Summitting Mount Thielsen
Mt. Thielsen exploratory climb

  MOUNT SHASTA
Mount Shasta Summit

  MT RAINIER
Recent accident on Rainier

  ALASKA
Timberline Mountain Guides - photos from their climbs in Alaska

  SMITH ROCK
Smith Rock Detour Bouldering Contest and Reel Rock Tour
Redmond Fire Department rescues a senior hiker at Smith Rock
Smith Rock Spring Thing in 2006
Smith Rock Spring Thing 2006 volunteer's party at the Barn
HERA climb for life fundraiser at Smith Rock
HERA climb4life party at the Smith Rock Barn
American Alpine Club and Traditional Mountaineering build another rescue cache at Smith Rock
Smith Rock Spring Thing Improvements
Smith Rock Spring Thing 2004 Party!   
Smith Rock hiking in the spring
Smith Rock from above the Burma Road
Smith Rock rescue cache by AAC/ORS and TraditionalMountaineering
Smith Rock weekend
Smith Rock Monkey Face practice