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Climbing Rainbow Serpent, Recital Hall, the Ghost, R Range / Alberta
TRADITIONAL MOUNTAINEERING SEMINARS
Saturday, March 12, 2005, FREE Traditional Mountaineering Seminar with
guests Robert Link and friends, on climbing and descending steep snow slopes including ice axe belay and arrest
We plan to meet at near the Mt. Bachelor parking lot at about 9AM. From there we will hike on consolidated snow or snowshoe to certain appropriate slopes for
steep snow climbing skills and ice axe belay/arrest practice, skills needed for
Aconcagua, Hood, Shasta, Jefferson, Adams,
and all the others. Learn about skills and gear for rope protected climbing and
rappelling steep snow, rock and ice slopes on major peaks, avalanche risk
avoidance, crevasse rescue gear and set-up See the Prospectus.
See the Photos of previous seminars.
Read more on Robert Link and
Associates.
Information from Robert Speik at 541-385-0445,
info@traditionalmountaineering.org No drop-ins please! Reservations
only; pre-registered by March 9, 2005. FULL at 30 people (read - 3
groups of 10) Reserved!
(Illustrations from Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills)
Saturday, April 16, 2005, 9AM to 3PM or so,
Crevasse Rescue and Technical Snow Climbing Skills Class at the Environmental Center
An indoor, hands-on, interactive gear and skills class with Robert Speik and mystery guest experts:
Skills and gear for rope protected climbing and rappelling steep snow, rock and ice slopes on major peaks, avalanche risk
avoidance, crevasse rescue gear and set-up and light and fast overnight gear for Shasta, Adams, Jefferson and more.
Meet new friends from 9:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. at The Environmental Center 15 Kansas St. Reservations $35, ($45 for couples).
Reservations Required; ten participants maximum. Call Robert Speik at 541-385-0445 or email
Bob Speik
Read the flyer
Saturday, December 3, 2005, 9AM to 3PM, BACKCOUNTRY ADVENTURES IN THE WINTER at the Environmental Center
An indoor, hands-on skills class with Robert Speik: Responsibilities,
essentials, clothing, winter risk mitigation, reasonable trip planning with map,
compass and optional GPS, snow cave and tent camping, cooking, climbing steep
slopes with minimum gear and skills, identification of possible avalanche risk
and more. Meet new friends, 9:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. at The Environmental Center
15 Kansas St. Reservations $35, ($45 for couples), at 385-0445 or see the flyer
Note: Twenty folks attended in 2004.
South, Middle, the sinister North Sister, and Broken Top from Mt. Bachelor.
Photo Copyright© 2005-2011 by Robert Speik. All Rights Reserved.
Read more . . .
MOST RECENT
On Being and Becoming a Mountaineer: an Essay
Climbing Mount Hood in April with Arlene Blum and friends
AAC Report - Accident on Mount Washington ends with helicopter rescue
AAC Report - Fatal fall from Three Finger Jack in the Mount Jefferson Wilderness
Three Finger Jack - OSU student falls on steep scree slope
Mount Huntington's West Face by Coley Gentzel
©2005 by AAI. All Rights Reserved
Solo climber falls from Cooper Spur on Mount Hood
Climber dies on the steep snow slopes of Mount McLaughlin
Warning!! **Climbers swept by avalanche while descending North Sister's Thayer Glacier Snowfield
Mt. Whitney's East Face Route is quicker!
Mt. Whitney's Mountaineer's Route requires skill and experience
Report: R.J. Secor seriously injured during a runaway glissade
Mount Rainer . . . eventually, with R.J. Secor by Tracy Sutkin
Warning!! ** Belayer drops climber off the end of the top rope
Runaway glissade fatal for Mazama climber on Mt. Whitney
Sierra Club climb on Middle Palisade fatal for Brian Reynolds
Smith Rock - Fall on rock, protection pulled out
Mount Washington - Report to the American Alpine Club on a second accident in 2004
Mount Hood - Solo hiker drowns while crossing Mt. Hood's Sandy River
Mount Hood - Solo climber slides into the Bergschrund and is found the following day
Notable mountain climbing accidents analyzed
Mount Washington - Report to the American Alpine Club on the recent fatal accident
Mount Washington - "Oregon tragedy claims two lives"
Mount Jefferson - two climbers rescued by military helicopter
North Sister - climbing with Allan Throop
MOUNT HOOD
Mount Hood - Solo climber falls from Cooper Spur
Mount Hood - climbing accident claims three lives -Final Report and our Analysis
Notable mountain climbing accidents Analyzed
Mount Hood - Solo hiker drowns while crossing Mt. Hood's Sandy River
Mount Hood - Solo climber slides into the Bergschrund and is found the following day
Mount Hood - The Episcopal School Tragedy
Mount Hood - experienced climbers rescued from snow cave
Mount Hood - a personal description of the south side route
Mount Hood - fatal avalanche described by Climbing Ranger
Mount Hood - avalanche proves fatal for members of Mazamas climbing group
Mount Hood - snowboard rider dies on Cooper Spur
Mount Hood - fatal fall on snow, Cooper Spur Route
Mount Hood - fatal fall on snow from the summit
Mount Hood - climb shows the need for knowledge
Mount Hood - climb ends in tragedy
Mount Hood - rescue facilitated by use of a VHF radio
BROKEN TOP
Solo backcountry ski to Broken Top Bowl and return
McArthur Rim - responsible climber slips on steep hard snow
A fine winter summit of Broken Top by Eric Seyler
Broken Top - climber disappears
Broken Top - climber slips on hard snow
MIDDLE SISTER
Middle Sister - climb proves need for equipment and experience
NORTH SISTER
Climbers swept by avalanche while descending North Sister's
Thayer Glacier Snowfield
North Sister - climbing with Allan Throop
North Sister - accident report to the American Alpine Club
North Sister fatal accident news reports
North Sister and Middle Sister spring summits on telemark skis
North Sister, North Ridge by Sam Carpenter
North Sister, the Martina Testa Story, by Bob Speik
North Sister, SE Ridge solo by Sam Carpenter
SMITH ROCK
Warning!! ** Belayer drops climber off the end of the top rope
Smith Rock - Fall on rock, protection pulled out
Smith Rock - WARNING - belayer drops climber off the end of the top rope
Smith Rock - inadequate top rope belay
Smith Rock - climber injured on the approach
Smith Rock - WARNING - belayer drops climber off the end of the top rope
Smith Rock - belay error - novice sport climber injured
Smith Rock - fall on rock, protection pulled out
Smith Rock - fall on rock - poor position, inadequate protection
Smith Rock - pulled rock off - fall on rock, failure to test holds, exceeding abilities
Smith Rock - belay error - fatal fall on rock
MOUNT WASHINGTON
Mount Washington - Report to the American Alpine Club on a second accident in 2004
Mount Washington - Report to the American Alpine Club on the recent fatal accident
Mount Washington - Oregon tragedy claims two lives
Injured climber rescued from Mount Washington
Mount Washington - fall on rock, protection pulled out
Playing Icarus on Mount Washington, an epic by Eric Seyler
THREE FINGER JACK
AAC Report - Fatal fall from Three Finger Jack in the Mount Jefferson Wilderness
News - Three Finger Jack - OSU student falls on steep scree slope
AAC Report - Three Finger Jack - Fatal slip on snow patch
AAC Report - Three Finger Jack - belayed fall from The Crawl
Photos: Climbing Three Finger Jack, a deceptively dangerous fifth class summit
Photos: Three Finger Jack
Three Finger Jack experience by Ben Siebel
A violent fall on Three Finger Jack by Julie Zeidman
A violent fall in Spain on caught on video
mpeg file - WARNING - This may be disturbing! The climbers did recover.
MOUNT JEFFERSON
Mount Jefferson - two climbers rescued by military helicopter
Mount Jefferson - climbing accident recounted
Mount Jefferson - downclimb proves fatal to solo climber