TRADITIONAL MOUNTAINEERING
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FREE BASIC TO ADVANCED ALPINE MOUNTAIN CLIMBING INSTRUCTION
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Seminar Prospectus

TECHNICAL HARD SNOW CLIMBING, ICE AXE ARREST AND GLACIER TRAVEL SEMINAR AND PRACTICE

Outing:                         Ninth Annual Technical Hard Snow Climbing, Glacier Travel, and Ice Axe Arrest Seminar and Practice
Dates And Times:         Saturday, June 2, 2007, from 9AM to about 3PM 
Place:                          Near the Mt. Bachelor Resort
Instructor:                    Robert Speik
Cost:                            FREE - but you must reserve a place. No drop-ins please
Reservations:              Call Robert Speik at 541-385-0445 or email info@traditionalmountaineering.org 

“SARENE” SNOW ANCHORS - BUILD AND TEST
-PICKET
-DEADMAN
-ICE AXE DEADMAN
-SNOW BOLLARD

SNOW BELAYS, INSTANT AND BACKED UP
­SITTING HIP BELAY
-ICE AXE BOOT BELAY
-STANDING ICE AXE/CARABINEER BELAY
-DYNAMIC SNOW BELAYS OF THE LEADER

ROPED TRAVEL ON SNOW, ROCK, ICE AND OUR CASCADES GLACIERS
-PORTIONING THE ROPE FOR 3 PERSON ROPED TEAM
-TYING IN FRONT, BACK AND MIDDLE PERSON
-POSITION OF PRUSSIC, TEXAS PRUSSIC AND PACK TIE OFF
-CLIMBING WITH FIXED ROPES ON STEEP HARD SNOW

RAPPELLING, SELF BELAY, CLIMBING THE (RAPPEL) ROPE
-DULPHERSITZ, ATC, FIGURE 8, ETC.
-PRUSSIC SELF BELAY
-PRUSSICS USED TO CLIMB THE (RAPPEL) ROPE
-(ALL PRACTICE RAPPELS MUST BE SEPARATELY BELAYED)

Z PULLEY CREVASSE RESCUE SYSTEM
-DEMO, SET UP AND BUILD

ICE AXE ARREST
-SUBJECT TO SNOW CONDITIONS. Read the Seminar Notes on Ice Axe Belay and Arrest.

BRING: YOUR ESSENTIALS, LUNCH AND WATER, AND:
- YOUR LIGHT HARNESS WITH RAPPEL AND PRUSSIC GEAR, LIGHT WEIGHT LOCKING BINERS, ETC
- YOUR ICE AXE, COMPLETE WITH IT'S GEAR
- ANCHORS: - SNOW STAKES, DEAD-PERSONS, AND ICE SCREWS
- 3 18" DIAMETER 6MM PRUSSIC LOOPS
- 3 48" DIAMETER, SEWN, 9/16 NYLON RUNNER
- 22' LENGTH OF 1" TUBULAR NYLON RUNNER
- YOUR CREVASSE RESCUE PULLEYS, PRUSSICS AND RUNNERS
- YOUR LITE DRY ALPINE 8+ TO 9MM ROPE
- OR USE OUR GEAR
- (NO CRAMPONS, PLEASE)

TECHNICAL REFERENCES:
MOUNTAINEERING, FREEDOM OF THE HILLS, CURRENT SEVENTH EDITION
GLACIER TRAVEL AND CREVASSE RESCUE, A. SHELTERS THE MOUNTAINEER'S PRESS, 1990

RESERVATIONS ARE REQUIRED! Space is limited. Please, no drop-ins. For a reservation email Leader by Monday, May 21, 2007

MORE INFORMATION:
There is no charge or obligation for this training. We are simply mentoring fellow climbers. More information will be sent to registered participants.
Copyright© 2007 by Robert Speik, All Rights Reserved.

 

 

 

 

Read more . . .
Photos of belayed rappels on snow
Photos of ice-axe arrest practice on snow

 ALPINE CLIMBING ON SNOW AND ICE
How long is the traditional alpine mountaineering ice axe?
Fatal Mt. Hood accident - Final Report and our Analysis  
What about climbing Mt. Hood? 
What is a good personal description of the south side route on Mount Hood?
What should I know about travel over hard snow and ice? 
How can I learn to self belay and ice axe arrest?   6 pdf pages   
What should I know about snow caves?  
What should I know about climbing Aconcagua? 

FREE SEMINARS
Ice axe self belay and self arrest seminar
Traditional snow climbing training: snow anchors and rappels 
Glacier travel and crevasse rescue seminar 

 TECHNICAL MOUNTAINEERING
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
What is the best belay | rappel | autoblock device for traditional alpine mountaineering?  
What gear do you normally rack on your traditional alpine mountaineering harness?     Photos?    
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering seat harness?     Photos?   
Can I use a Sharpie Pen for Marking the Middle of the Climbing Rope? 
What are the highest peaks in Oregon?    Alphabetically?

 AVALANCHE AVOIDANCE
What is an avalanche cord?
Avalanche training courses - understanding avalanche risk
How is avalanche risk described and rated by the professionals?   pdf table 
How can I avoid dying in an avalanche?
Known avalanche slopes near Bend, OR?  
What is a PLB? 
Can I avoid avalanche risk with good gear and seminars?   pdf file


 
SNOWSHOES AND CRAMPONS
Why do you like GAB crampons for traditional mountaineering?
What should I know about the new snowshoe trails
What are technical snowshoes?
Which crampons are the best?
What about Boots and Shoes?