TRADITIONAL MOUNTAINEERING
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www.TraditionalMountaineering.org
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www.AlpineMountaineering.org
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FREE BASIC TO ADVANCED ALPINE MOUNTAIN CLIMBING INSTRUCTION
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Seminar Prospectus
TECHNICAL HARD SNOW CLIMBING, ICE AXE ARREST AND GLACIER TRAVEL SEMINAR AND PRACTICE
Outing:
Ninth Annual Technical Hard Snow Climbing, Glacier Travel, and Ice Axe Arrest Seminar and Practice
Dates And Times: Saturday, June 2,
2007, from 9AM to
about 3PM
Place:
Near the Mt. Bachelor Resort
Instructor:
Robert Speik
Cost: FREE -
but you must reserve a place. No drop-ins please
Reservations:
Call Robert Speik at 541-385-0445 or email
info@traditionalmountaineering.org
“SARENE” SNOW ANCHORS - BUILD AND TEST
-PICKET
-DEADMAN
-ICE AXE DEADMAN
-SNOW BOLLARD
SNOW BELAYS, INSTANT AND BACKED UP
SITTING HIP BELAY
-ICE AXE BOOT BELAY
-STANDING ICE AXE/CARABINEER BELAY
-DYNAMIC SNOW BELAYS OF THE LEADER
ROPED TRAVEL ON SNOW, ROCK, ICE AND OUR CASCADES GLACIERS
-PORTIONING THE ROPE FOR 3 PERSON ROPED TEAM
-TYING IN FRONT, BACK AND MIDDLE PERSON
-POSITION OF PRUSSIC, TEXAS PRUSSIC AND PACK TIE OFF
-CLIMBING WITH FIXED ROPES ON STEEP HARD SNOW
RAPPELLING, SELF BELAY, CLIMBING THE (RAPPEL) ROPE
-DULPHERSITZ, ATC, FIGURE 8, ETC.
-PRUSSIC SELF BELAY
-PRUSSICS USED TO CLIMB THE (RAPPEL) ROPE
-(ALL PRACTICE RAPPELS MUST BE SEPARATELY BELAYED)
Z PULLEY CREVASSE RESCUE SYSTEM
-DEMO, SET UP AND BUILD
ICE AXE ARREST
-SUBJECT TO SNOW CONDITIONS. Read the Seminar Notes on
Ice Axe Belay and Arrest.
BRING: YOUR ESSENTIALS, LUNCH AND WATER, AND:
- YOUR LIGHT HARNESS WITH RAPPEL AND PRUSSIC GEAR, LIGHT WEIGHT LOCKING
BINERS, ETC
- YOUR ICE AXE, COMPLETE WITH IT'S GEAR
- ANCHORS: - SNOW STAKES, DEAD-PERSONS, AND ICE SCREWS
- 3 18" DIAMETER 6MM PRUSSIC LOOPS
- 3 48" DIAMETER, SEWN, 9/16 NYLON RUNNER
- 22' LENGTH OF 1" TUBULAR NYLON RUNNER
- YOUR CREVASSE RESCUE PULLEYS, PRUSSICS AND RUNNERS
- YOUR LITE DRY ALPINE 8+ TO 9MM ROPE
- OR USE OUR GEAR
- (NO CRAMPONS, PLEASE)
TECHNICAL REFERENCES:
MOUNTAINEERING, FREEDOM OF THE HILLS, CURRENT SEVENTH EDITION
GLACIER TRAVEL AND CREVASSE RESCUE, A. SHELTERS THE MOUNTAINEER'S PRESS, 1990
RESERVATIONS ARE REQUIRED! Space is limited. Please, no drop-ins. For a reservation email Leader by Monday, May 21, 2007
MORE INFORMATION:
There is no charge or obligation for this training. We are simply mentoring
fellow climbers. More information will be sent to registered participants.
Copyright© 2007 by Robert Speik, All Rights Reserved.
Read more . . .
Photos of belayed rappels on snow
Photos of ice-axe arrest practice on
snow
ALPINE CLIMBING
ON SNOW AND ICE
How long is the traditional alpine mountaineering ice axe?
Fatal Mt. Hood accident - Final Report and
our Analysis
What about climbing Mt.
Hood?
What is a good
personal description of the south side route on Mount Hood?
What should I know about travel over hard snow
and ice?
How can I learn to self belay and ice axe arrest?
6 pdf pages
What should I know about snow caves?
What should I know about climbing Aconcagua?
FREE SEMINARS
Ice axe self belay and
self arrest seminar
Traditional snow climbing training:
snow anchors and rappels
Glacier travel and crevasse rescue seminar
TECHNICAL
MOUNTAINEERING
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering
summit pack?
What is the best belay | rappel | autoblock device for traditional alpine
mountaineering?
What gear do you normally rack on your traditional alpine
mountaineering harness?
Photos?
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering seat harness? Photos?
Can I use a Sharpie Pen for Marking the Middle of the Climbing Rope?
What are the highest peaks in
Oregon? Alphabetically?
AVALANCHE
AVOIDANCE
What is an avalanche cord?
Avalanche training courses -
understanding avalanche risk
How is avalanche risk described and rated by the professionals?
pdf table
How can I avoid dying in an avalanche?
Known
avalanche slopes near Bend, OR?
What is a PLB?
Can I avoid avalanche risk
with good gear and seminars? pdf file
SNOWSHOES
AND CRAMPONS
Why do you like GAB crampons for traditional
mountaineering?
What should I know about the new snowshoe trails
What are technical snowshoes?
Which crampons are the best?
What about Boots and Shoes?