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FREE BASIC TO ADVANCED
ALPINE MOUNTAIN CLIMBING INSTRUCTION™
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TECHNICAL GEAR AND SKILLS FOR GLACIER TRAVEL AND CLIMBING STEEP SNOW SLOPES
Saturday, April 22, 2006, 9AM to 3PM or so
Offices of Mountain Link, LLC, 164 NW Greenwood Avenue, downtown Bend
This class is about the gear and skills needed to ascend and descend glaciers and steep snow slopes. This class is based on traditional Basic Winter Mountaineering Training provided by major climbing clubs in the North West. This is an indoor, hands-on, interactive skills class lead by Robert Speik and mystery guest experts: Skills and gear for rope protected climbing and rappelling steep snow, rock and ice slopes on major peaks, crevasse rescue gear and techniques and light and fast overnight gear for Shasta, Adams, Jefferson, North Sister and more.
Traditional and current instruction on this
subject by The Mazamas, The Mountaineers, and the Angeles Chapter Sierra Club,
for thousands of students over 30 years, begins with hands on classroom
instruction and practice.
“SARENE” SNOW ANCHORS - MINIMUM GEAR AND SET-UP
-ICE AXE DEADMAN
SNOW BELAYS, INSTANT AND BACKED UP - LEARN AND PRACTICE SET-UP AND ROPE
SITTING HIP BELAY
-ICE AXE BOOT BELAY
-STANDING ICE AXE/CARABINEER BELAY
-DYNAMIC SNOW BELAYS OF THE LEADER
ROPED TRAVEL ON SNOW, ROCK, ICE AND OUR CASCADES GLACIERS - LEARN AND
PRACTICE ROPE SETUP AND KNOTS
-PORTIONING THE ROPE FOR 3 PERSON ROPED TEAM
-TYING IN FRONT, BACK AND MIDDLE PERSON
-POSITION OF PRUSSIC, TEXAS PRUSSIC AND PACK TIE OFF
-CLIMBING WITH FIXED ROPES ON STEEP HARD SNOW
-TYING OFF THE BACKPACK
RAPPELLING, SELF BELAY, CLIMBING THE (RAPPEL) ROPE - MINIMUM GEAR AND SET-UP
-DULPHERSITZ, ATC, FIGURE 8, ETC.
-PRUSSIC SELF BELAY
-PRUSSICS AND OTHER GEAR USED TO CLIMB THE (RAPPEL) ROPE
Z PULLEY CREVASSE RESCUE SYSTEM
-SET UP AND BUILD VARIOUS SYSTEMS
REQUIRED GEAR -
- YOUR LIGHT HARNESS WITH RAPPEL AND PRUSSIC GEAR, LIGHT WEIGHT LOCKING BINERS, ETC
- YOUR ICE AXE, COMPLETE WITH IT'S GEAR
- ANCHORS: - SNOW STAKES, DEAD-PERSONS, AND ICE SCREWS**
- 3 18" DIAMETER 6MM PRUSSIC LOOPS
- 3 48" DIAMETER, SEWN, 9/16 NYLON RUNNER
- 1 22' LENGTH OF 1" TUBULAR NYLON RUNNER
- YOUR CREVASSE RESCUE PULLEYS, PRUSSICS AND RUNNERS**
- YOUR CLIMBING BOOTS AND CRAMPONS**
- YOUR OWN ROPE**
** This is intended to be a Basic to Advanced hands-on Class. If you do not own the items marked with a **, you can use our gear. Please do not buy gear before you attend this Class.
MOUNTAINEERING, FREEDOM OF THE HILLS, SEVENTH EDITION 2003
GLACIER TRAVEL AND CREVASSE RESCUE, A. SHELTERS 1990
SELF-RESCUE, DAVID J. FASULO 1996
CLIMBING ICE, YVON CHOUINARD 1977
EXTREME ALPINISM, MARK TWIGHT 1999
PETZL-CHARLET MOSER 2006 CATALOG
Group Dynamics -
The class includes lunch and time for planning adventures. We will be working together with the actual gear recommended in the class.
Robert Speik, your instructor,
Is an experienced backcountry leader/instructor and editor of student and leader handbooks. For six years, he taught popular Mountaineering, Alpine Rambling, Backpacking and Wilderness Navigation Classes and field Seminars at Central Oregon Community College. In the mid 1980s, for three years he was Chairman of the Angeles Chapter Mountaineering Training Committee, responsible for Basic and Advanced Mountaineering Training for up to 1,000 students per year. Bob is the author of the popular world wide website www.TraditionalMountaineeing.org.
This basic to advanced training -
Can be completed in this interesting day. Cost per student is $35.00 (just $50.00 for couples!). The donation benefiting the nonprofit website www.TraditionalMountaineeing.org helps defray the rental cost of the room, lunches, door prizes, and also gifts for guest experts. Handouts will include a printed summary of the class information.
We are limiting this class to 10 participants! In fairness to all, you will need to commit by April 19, 2006.
For more information and to join this class: email email@example.com or call Robert Speik at 541-385-0445
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Photos of belayed rappels on snow
Photos of ice-axe arrest practice on snow
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