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Climbing is a Quantum Experience
(While climbing with the American Alpine Club)
By Bob McGown, FRAS
I was in a sports bar in Golden, Colorado sampling micro brews and watching a
World Series game with the St Louis Cardinals and the Cincinnati Red Socks with
the board of American Alpine Club. We just had a hard day of climbing the Rincon
Wall in Eldorado Canyon. Our rope guns, climbing leaders, Phil Powers and
Charlotte Fox had abandoned us and I brought up the subject of quantum mechanics
as related to a sports event. I was rambling on about quantum properties and
baseball and Allison Osius (AlliO) called me a ‘nerd’. But really, what do
baseball, rock climbing & quantum mechanics have in common? The answer is to
follow:
Can we tie in quantum logic and classical logic and understand an event whether
in base ball or rock climbing? Classical logic describes the world we live in,
while quantum logic is the statistical logic of the quantum world.
Probably the biggest difference between the logic of the quantum world and the
logic of the everyday world is that in the quantum world, the observer affects
the out come of the event. In one of the many urban legends concerning him, the
great baseball player and coach, Yogi Berra, and two umpires observed a pitch
coming across the plate. The first umpire said it was inside the box. The second
umpire said it was outside the box. Then Yogi Berra scrutinized the pitch and
said “Wait a minute boys, it ain’t anything until I see it.” In base ball as
well as quantum mechanics, the act of observation may affect the outcome of the
event.
Rock climbing is a technical sport where style is judged. The ascent in pure
form, whether roped or free solo, is a sequence of moves. The grace, balance,
technical skill, and speed are observed and compared. If a technique is done in
a continuous free style, it is considered a red point. An observer might judge
style, technique, and other effects of gravity upon the climber. The observation
of the peers may affect the outcome. Like in baseball, there is overlap and
uncertainty in the game. Two umpires observe the same event and may have
different opinions.
In climbing, a sequential series event will become a catalyst to bring about the
frame reference for the time sequence known as the ascent. A continuous free
ascent, the red point is the act of the call like in baseball. The umpire calls
“two balls and a strike” The red point would be considered a hit or a walk
whether it was done on sight. (Armchair umpire) The batter achieves his goal to
get on base and later like a quantum leap, steal a base and achieve is goal of
the point game, thus completing the ascent.
The laws of quantum mechanics are not deterministic laws. They are probabilistic
in nature. They don’t give definite answers, just probabilities. The
characteristic of quantum mechanics has troubled many physicists. One suggestion
is that quantum mechanics is probabilistic because we don’t have the final
explanation of the quantum world. We may find that there was a deterministic
theory hiding there all along. This is known as the hidden variable theory.
There are certainly hidden variables in rock climbing. Ascending a climb, there
might be moss on the rock or an expanding flake. Yet the hidden variable may
affect the red point and the climber is considered out,
sometimes affecting the nature of a first ascent.
One interpretation of the probabilistic nature of quantum mechanics is the many
worlds interpretation. In the many ‘worlds interpretation’ even though one
out come is chosen, all possible outcomes are actually realized with the ones
not chosen in our universe, becoming reality in parallel universes. In rock
climbing, the rock climber makes it to the summit and descends safely. Or the
rock climber may be not able to make it to the summit or descend. The climber
may not reach the summit and is forced to descend. In each situation a different
time line is taken. Rock climbers carefully use their skill to create a specific
reality that faces them on each climb. Over time in alternative universes, the
rock climber will experience all possible outcomes of each climb.
Another key aspect of quantum mechanics is the uncertainly principle. You can
not know the values of certain pairs of variables to one hundred percent
certainty. In the art of climbing and baseball, the event is a series of
compounding variables where the statistical probably may or may not over ride
the desired out come of the individual. An unknown error factor of perhaps 2% is
one of the uncertainties that may affect the outcome of the event. The more
information you have, the less the uncertainty of errors. However as in quantum
mechanics you may never have complete certainty.
Another strange phenomenon of quantum mechanics is non- locally. In QM particles
may affect each other from a distance without any physical connection. In
climbing, the individual climbers may ascend and leap frog like a machine. As if
driven by one collective mind like ants or termites, they work in unison toward
a final goal.
It is difficult to describe events in the context of classical physics and QM,
so scientists sometimes describe events in sequences of complexity and emerging
behavior. In some ways rock climbing or baseball is a game of emerging behavior.
If some one were to watch the event unfold, over time they could deduce the
rules of the game.
In quantum mechanics you don’t know any thing for sure. There are limits on what
you do know and when you can know it. For example: if you know where you are
going, you have no idea where you are. Or if you know where you are, you have no
idea where you are going. In the world of sub atomic particles, there are only
likelihoods and approximations. Are the uncertainties of the macroscopic world
the faint echoes of the fundamental principles of uncertainty? Reflecting on the
vertical ballet of the stone master’s reality, it is the world of classical and
quantum mechanics that are part of the climber’s mind journey in the parallel
universes that climbers exist.
############
Note: Bob is a Renaissance Man: He is a rock climber and tradtional mountaineer,
father, electrician, astronomer,
author, cement finisher and more. He is a Fellow of the Royal Astronomical
Society. Bob McGown, American Alpine Club Pacific North-West Chair, sent me this
latest story. His most recent story, "The Space Geometry Climb" was an
adventure up the slopes of Mt. Hood with Arlene Blum and others. He led this
climb the early alpine morning after his two-day effort constructing a pad for a donated telescope
on the top of Pine Mountain. I was tired out from the work and all the
photographs, but Bob drove over to
Mount Hood that night for this climb the next morning with Arlene Blum. Photos of the Pine Mountain
Astronomical construction can be found here. More
about Arlene Blum can be found here!
--Webmeister Speik
Read more . . .
Bob McGown
The Space Geometry Climb
Arlene Blum
American Alpine Club
Oregon Section of the AAC
Accidents in North American Mountaineering
About Alpine Mountaineering:
The Sport of Alpine Mountaineering
Climbing Together
Following the Leader
The Mountaineers' Rope
Basic Responsibilities
Cuatro Responsabiliades Basicas de Quienes Salen al Campo
The Ten Essentials
Los Diez Sistemas Esenciales
Avalanches
Climbers swept by avalanche while descending North Sister's Thayer Glacier Snowfield
Solo climber dies on Mount McLaughlin
Snowshoer dies in backcountry avalanche in Washington State
Young Bend man dies in remote backcountry avalanche
Recent deaths cause concern over avalanche beacons
Skilled member of The Mountaineers killed in avalanche
Basic Responsibilities of the cross country skier
Avalanche avoidance a practical approach to avalanche safety
Tumalo Mountain a wintertime treat
Avalanche Avoidance
How can I avoid dying in an avalanche?
Avalanche training courses - understanding avalanche risk
How is avalanche risk described and rated by the
professionals? pdf table
Known avalanche slopes near Bend, OR?
What is a PLB?
Can I avoid avalanche risk
with good gear and seminars? pdf file
Most Recent Accidents
AAC Report - Accident on Mount Washington ends with helicopter rescue
AAC Report - Fatal fall from Three Finger Jack in the Mount Jefferson Wilderness
Three Finger Jack - OSU student falls on steep scree slope
Mount Huntington's West Face by Coley Gentzel
©2005 by AAI. All Rights Reserved
Solo climber falls from Cooper Spur on Mount Hood
Climber dies on the steep snow slopes of Mount McLaughlin
Warning!! **Climbers swept by avalanche while descending North Sister's Thayer
Glacier Snowfield
Mt. Whitney's East Face Route is quicker!
Mt. Whitney's Mountaineer's Route requires skill and experience
Report: R.J. Secor seriously injured during a runaway glissade
Mount Rainer . . . eventually, with R.J. Secor by Tracy Sutkin
Warning!! ** Belayer drops climber off the end of the top rope
Runaway glissade fatal for Mazama climber on Mt. Whitney
Sierra Club climb on Middle Palisade fatal for Brian Reynolds
Smith Rock - Fall on rock, protection pulled out
Mount Washington - Report to the American Alpine Club on a second accident in 2004
Mount Hood - Solo hiker drowns while crossing Mt. Hood's Sandy River
Mount Hood - Solo climber slides into the Bergschrund and is found the following day
Notable mountain climbing accidents analyzed
Mount Washington - Report to the American Alpine Club on the recent fatal accident
Mount Washington - "Oregon tragedy claims two lives"
Mount Jefferson - two climbers rescued by military helicopter
North Sister - climbing with Allan Throop
North Sister
Climbers swept by avalanche while descending North Sister's
Thayer Glacier Snowfield
North Sister - climbing with Allan Throop
North Sister - accident report to the American Alpine Club
North Sister fatal accident news reports
North Sister and Middle Sister spring summits on telemark skis
North Sister, North Ridge by Sam Carpenter
North Sister, the Martina Testa Story, by Bob Speik
North Sister, SE Ridge solo by Sam Carpenter
Other Summits
Report: R.J. Secor seriously injured during a runaway glissade
Mount Rainer . . . eventually, with R.J. Secor by Tracy Sutkin
Mt. Whitney's East Face Route is quicker!
Mt. Whitney's Mountaineer's Route requires skill and experience
Sierra Club climb on Middle Palisade fatal for Brian Reynolds
Runaway glissade fatal for Mazama climber on Mt. Whitney
Slip on hard snow on Snow Creek route on San Jacinto
Notable mountain climbing accidents analyzed
California fourteener provides an experience
The Mountaineers Club effects a rescue in the North Cascades
Mount Washington
Mount Washington - Report to the American Alpine Club on a second accident in 2004
Mount Washington - Report to the American Alpine Club on the recent fatal accident
Mount Washington - Oregon tragedy claims two lives
Injured climber rescued from Mount Washington
Mount Washington - fall on rock, protection pulled out
Playing Icarus on Mount Washington, an epic by Eric Seyler