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JJ and Lhawang on the Summit
Craig and Tendee on the Summit
Copyright© 2004 by Mountain Link, LLC. All Rights Reserved.
The Photos from the Mountain Link team are reproduced here: DISPATCHES:
03.23.04
Dispatch 01
Here we are in Kathmandu once again. The entire team climbing and trekking made
it in today. As usual we will be enjoying a few days in the big city. Lhawang
and I are making last minute preparations, food buying, gear checking, etc. We
are also making sure all our communication gear is in order.
This afternoon I made sure our satellite phone is working by calling my sister
Jodi in Wisconsin. Unfortunately I forgot that it was midnight back in the
States. But my sister was a pretty good sport about it.
Tonight the team will enjoy another great dinner, this time at the infamous Fire
and Ice, well known for their pizza. Don’t tell the team but I already went
there. The next time you hear from us I’d like to introduce the team. Right now
one of our team members is checking in with their parole officer so once we get
the go ahead, we’ll let you know who we are.
--Keep Climbin’ – JJ
03.24.04
Dispatch 02
Day 1: From Kathmandu to Lulka to Phakding. We arrived at the Kathmandu airport
with a pile of bags almost as big as the bus we rode in on. Besides some delayed
luggage, our arrival in Lukla (2800m) and the beginning of out time in the
Khumbu couldn’t have been better. Clear skies gave us a smooth flight and our
first views of the Himalaya, at least for those who could bare to look from our
rattling prop plane.
We had our first road food in Lukla, a great lunch of hot Kool-aide, sardines,
french fries and as many as pb and j sandwiches as we could eat. Along with the
standard accoutrements to our table also came some local flavor; Dark Green
Chili sauce and an unknown, pungent, white, creamy...uh...cheese, presumably,
that our food tester, Jumpin’ Joe Hughes found quite tasty. And six ours after
eating, the outcome was still favorable.
With full bellies, we finally embarked on why we all came to Nepal, to walk,
climb, be in the mountains. The walk from Lukla to Phakding (pronounced
fahk-ding), follows the Dhudkosi (Milk River) through the lower Khumbu. At only
2 ½ hours, it is short and sweet. Loads of tea houses, dzo (a yak/cow hybrid)
and porters carrying enormous, I mean inconceivable, amounts of stuff, are all
along the way. We passed 2 Gompas, small Buddhist temples, with prayer wheels,
flags, stuppas and beautiful stones carved and whitewashed with prayers.
At 2800M, we’re not exactly in the high country. Even this low, we’ve had a few
spectacular views of steep, dramatic, craggy peaks. The most memorable was just
before we crossed the Dhudkosi. Kusomgangri, a 6000+ meter peek with steep faces
and hanging glaciers.
After a wobbly suspension bridge crossing, we arrived at the Phakding Star Lodge
and are looking forward, with a little trepidation, to our 5 hour/3000M climb to
Namche
tomorrow.
--Kate Trueheart
03.26.04
Dispatch 3 in Namche Bazaar
We’ve been resting in Namche Bazaar (about 11,500) for a day and a half now and
it feels good. The walk from Phakding to Namche was awesome. The first half of
the trail follows the Dhud Kosi River and crosses it a handful of times. Along
the way we met some guys who gave us some pointers about digital photography.
Soon after entering the Sagarmatha National Park the trail serves up some of the
first real dose of elevation gain and thinner air. So far everyone in the crew
is feeling good and we are taking all of the steps necessary to stay
acclimatized.
We are going to stay one more day in Namche Bazaar and we’ll be able to hit the
Saturday market here in town. Apparently it is a big event where local Sherpa
from all around the Kumbu come to trade and buy for what they need. It’s getting
late now so I’ll end it short.
We’ll write more soon. -- Richie Gardner
Later-
We’d like to begin introducing our team. First, we’d like to share with you the
backbone of our expedition, our Sherpa team. Now as you may know, climbing
Sherpas help expeditions by carrying loads high on the mountain and establishing
a safe climbing route. Quite a few expeditions choose not to utilize the help of
Sherpas to climb the high peaks in the Himalayas. However, I cannot imagine not
climbing without their help.
For one over the years our crew of Sherpas have become close personal friends of
ours. As a matter of fact, they aren’t Sherpas to us, they are Mountain Link
Guides. Lhawang Dhondup who heads up our crew guides in South America for
Mountain Link. So with that said, we’d like to introduce one of the strongest
Sherpas in the world.
You may think that’s arrogant to say but come on over here and see for yourself.
These guys have led the show on Everest for years, which includes our friend,
Tendee Sherpa.
Tendee Sherpa is one of our strong team members whose role is to help carry
loads and fix the route on the upper mountain. Tendee Sherpa and Dawa Sherpa
(another member of our climbing Sherpa team) are brothers. Their brother Babu
Chiri Sherpa set two world records on Mount Everest. One for setting the speed
record and the second for spending just under 24 hours on the summit of Mount
Everest!
Tendee Sherpa is 36 years old and has a family including 2 sons and 1 daughter.
They live in Solu Khumbu district in the village Tagsindu. When he is not
helping expeditions succeed he is an agricultural farmer. Tendee Sherpa’s résumé
includes:
• 6 Everest Expeditions
• 1 Manaslu (26,781’) Expedition, 8th highest in the world
• 1 Dhaulagiri (26,794’) Expedition, 7th highest in the world
• 1 Kangchenjunga (28,169’) Expedition, 3rd highest in the world
-- Richie Gardner
03.28.04
Dispatch 4
Restless was definitely the word for the past two days as our team relaxed in
the village of Namche Bazaar. It definitely is a great place to hang out and
acclimatize. At 11,500 feet, the buildings of Namche hang onto the steep
hillside. If you are in need of some last minute gear or to my surprise a
cappuccino, Namche is the place.
Saturday’s in the village is a unique day where people come from miles around
with goods to sell the locals. Products range from tennis shoes to fat flanks of
buffalo ripening in the mid-day sun. It took me awhile later that night to
figure out that the great tasting meat we were feasting on came fresh (sort of)
from the market.
Today, Sunday the 28th we left the cappuccino comfort of Namche Bazaar and
trekked a few hours to Tengboche. The village, which sits at 3860 meters, is
well known for its beautiful Tengboche Monastery. It was amusing to catch a
group of young Buddhist Monks playing soccer underneath the Himalayas. We will
spend the night here and then depart tomorrow for Pangboche to further
acclimatize and get closer to Everest Base camp.
Slowly but Surely, --JJ Justman
04.06.04
Dispatch 5
Well, it has been awhile since we have touched based with you. But you’ll have
to forgive us seeing that a week ago every team member was trying to win the
2004 Mountain Link Projectile Vomiting Championship. This year the contest was
held in the village of Pangboche. Joe Hughes was clearly the winner with the
combination of Nepali hot dogs, greasy french fries and orange tang flying to a
distance of 8 feet 3 inches. Richie Gardner came in last with a little dribble
running down his chin and ruining his Mountain Hardwear wind shirt.
However, the entire team as we speak is healthy and well enjoying the amenities
of Base camp. It is great to finally be here. You get to dive into your snack
food you brought from the states, empty out all your gear and clothes, which by
the way our team is very thankful because I finally changed my socks. I swear, I
can’t smell a damn thing!
We are still reminded that we are out in the mountains. Our communications are
giving us a headache and we are continually working on fixing all the kinks. It
is nice though because it gives us something to do. We will be hanging here
until the 8th when we have our ceremonial Puja. Then, the team will venture
above B.C. through the icefall, which is rumored to be in great condition. As a
great mountaineer taught me, never trust anything until you check it out
yourself. As is evident by the rumor that Everest had a ton of snow this year.
I’m still trying to figure out where all the snow is?
-JJ
Dispatch 6 Every photo tells a story!
Webmeister's note: Please go to our full page of photos from this ultimate
adventure, provided for us by JJ and Mountain Link
Dispatch 4/8
Howdy,
What we’ve all been waiting for took place at 5:00 am this morning. No that
isn’t a typo, I did say 5:00 am. According to the Tibetan calendar the best time
for our Puja was April 8th from 5:00 to 6:00 am. For those of you who don’t know
what a Puja is, it’s a religious ceremony held very sacred to the Sherpa people.
No one climbs until the Puja is complete. Don’t think that this is some dull
religious experience either. There is a lot of socializing with other climbers,
tossing rice at the alter, chanting and sipping some local and imported spirits.
I got my hands on this stuff called Chang, WHOOOO-WEEEE. The local folks are
much better at dealing with that buzz than us western wussies.
We did have some great Tequila and Jack-D that made our palettes more at home.
After the Puja, our Sherpa crew was off to climb in the icefall and check out
the conditions. Of course, they were only gone for about an hour and a half and
probably covered over half of it’s distance, just warming up. I really wish I
had Nepali lungs. Most of the summit hopefuls on our team sampled the icefall
today as well and are pretty stoked to spend some nights above it in the not too
distant future.
Anyway, the engine is running and the climbing has begun! Check back soon for
some more juicy photos and news on our progress.
--Adios, Richie
April 12 Dispatch
The backbone of our Himalayan adventures are our Sherpa crew. Every year I look
forward to returning to the Himalaya to climb with these guys. As you’ll see by
their brief resumes (sorry I just don’t have time to write everything they have
accomplished), these guys are the best.
Dawa Sherpa is from Taksindu in Solu Khumbu where he lives with his wife and 5
sons. His brothers Tendee Sherpa and Kale Sherpa are also climbing with us. Dawa
Sherpa has been working with Mountain Link since 2002. Dawa has been there and
done this:
5 Everest Summits
Cho Oyu
Shishapangma
Pumori
15 Ama Dablam Summits
Makalu
2 Dhaulagiri Expeditions including 2002 Mountain Link Dhaulagiri Expedition
Manaslu
How high are these mountains? Really, really, really High!
Dawa Sherpa’s favorite Musician: Beyonce
Lhawang Dhondup: Mountain Link Senior Guide; Expedition Leader; Expedition
Sirdar
A native of Tibet, Lhawang now resides in Berkley, California. Lhawang guides
worldwide for Mountain Link and is our “go-to” man for Himalayan Expeditions.
5 Everest Expeditions (1 summit)
2002 Mountain Link Dhaulagiri Expedition
Cho Oyu
Shishapangma
5 Ama Dablam Expeditions
Prone to eating raw goat legs (has yet to make any goat noises)
Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa:
Okay, here’s the deal with Lhakpa Nuru, he’s a bad ass. I know, I know you are
saying “you can’t say that about a Sherpa”! Well, the guy just ran up to Camp 2
and back down to Base camp in 6 hours! If that’s not enough, here’s a bit of
what else he’s done:
4 Everest Summits
Makalu
Annapurna
2 Dhaulagiri Expeditions
Lhotse
2 Ama Dablam Expeditions
Manaslu
Favorite article of clothing to wear under his Down Suit: Ralph Lauren Bell
Bottom Jeans
Kale Sherpa: Camp 2 Cook
Kale Sherpa is 28 years old and is being mentored by his two brothers Dawa
Sherpa and Tendee Sherpa. Kale will be assisting the team as our Camp 2 Cook.
This was decided after the team allowed me to cook up my famous Tuna/Peanut
Butter/S’mores Sandwiches. I swear they’re good. Kale Sherpa has been on 4
Everest Expeditions and participated on Janu a rarely climbed peak in Nepal. In
the off-season he runs Mountain View Lodge in Taksindu.
Dawa Gyaltsen Sherpa: Expedition Chef
Dawa Sherpa is the 7 time Everest Iron Chef Champion. Last year winning with his
Lobster sautéed Dhal Bhat. Professionally trained in Chamonix, France Dawa is
instrumental in our team’s success.
Jeff Justman: a.k.a. JJ: Mountain Link Senior Guide; Expedition Leader
After 2 previous Himalayan Expeditions to Dhaulagiri and Manaslu, JJ is bald!
Enough on him!
JJ’s Infatuation: Salma Hayek
Richie Gardner: Base Camp Manager “The G.M.”
Recently retired as the System Administrator from Mountain Hardwear, he is in
charge of keeping the gears moving hear in the Communication Tent and whatnot.
He is most often heard saying, “Nothing works up here! I’m done with computers.”
Jumpin’ Joe Hughes: Owner/Athletic Trainer, Sedona Fitness; Mountain Goat
Joe Hughes has been climbing mountains around the world with Mountain Link since
2002. Joe along with Liz Pace are providing students around the United States an
opportunity to learn the many facets of mountaineering, including how to achieve
your dreams.
April 15, 2004
Dispatch 09
As a kid every first Saturday in November I would be woken up by my Mom, “get
your lazy butt up, get outside and start raking the leaves”. So I’d hesitantly
crawl out of bed, eat my cocoa puffs, try to avoid the inevitable until my
mother would start yelling at me to get to work. Once outside I would rake like
a madman putting all the leaves in the nice little garbage bags the city of
Appleton, Wisconsin specifically gave us for the job.
Having finished I would put the rake away and start heading for the neighbors to
play football when my Mom would open the door and shout, “don’t forget to get on
the roof and clean the leaves out of the rain gutters”. Throwing my head back in
disgust I’d cry, “aah Ma, can’t I get ‘em in the spring”? “JUST DO IT” my Mom’s
face would already
be turning red.
Now as I got out the ladder and shimmied it to the roof I would ask my Mom, “hey
can you hold the ladder”? “No I’m busy”, was her answer every year. One of these
years I’m going to purposefully fall off, that will show you, I’d think! Of
course I’d crawl up the ladder and spend the next hour cleaning out the gutters.
Man I hated trees and I hated the high view because I could see the other kids
playing football in the neighbors’ backyard. They at least didn’t have to make
fun of me for obeying my Mothers orders.
Back to the present I have to laugh seeing that my Mom helped train me to
navigate the maze of ladders in the Khumbu Icefall. The very last ladder system
in the icefall is a collection of five or six ladders connected vertically. I’m
not exactly sure how many are tied together because I was too busy looking down
to see if my Mom was holding the ladder.
Thanks Mom! --JJ
Dispatch 10 – April 20, 2004
We received word from Richie Gardner at Everest Base Camp. He reports to us that
Joe Hughes, Jeff Justman, Lhawang Dhondup and the Sherpa crew have made it
through the Khumbu Ice Fall for the second time. They spent the night at Camp
One at 19,800 feet.
Today they will make a carry to Camp Two and descend to Camp 1 to spend another
night.
Photos from Camp 1 and 2 will come, once the group makes their way back through
the Icefall to Base Camp. In the meantime, Richie has spent some time taking
digital images in and around base camp.
--The Mountain Link Staff, Bend, OR
Dispatch 11- April 21, 2004
Since I’ve been here at Everest Base Camp I frequently get asked the question if
there is any tension between the trekkers that mosey through and the folks who
are spending the entire climbing season. Being a surfer from California I am
used to and a bit immune to those sorts of vibes. So naturally I say, “naw
that’s a bunch of crap.” That may be because we haven’t had any trekkers here at
our camp yet. Well it went from zero to sixty today at around 11:00 am when we
got our first batch of trekkers. I can sort of see what the “vibe” may be all
about.
Picture yourself in your living room of your own house and someone walks in and
says that you will have 15 visitors from various counties in an hour. Then they
show up and your surroundings have totally changed, not for the worse
necessarily but it leaves you feeling shell shocked in a way. I found myself
chatting with one of the trekkers and he has a totally different and outspoken
view about Base Camp than I do and suddenly I haven’t anything else to say, so I
head off to the med tent and check the weather for the team.
Base Camp is a thriving community of people from all over the world. It is a
strange universe to be thrown into, especially for someone like myself, the Base
Camp Manager. We live here. We stay in or around Base and stay in contact with
our climbing teams, sheppard the electronics, play lots of Hearts, and hang with
the kitchen crew (who are the nicest people on the planet).
More later, --Richie
Dispatch 12 – April 22, 2004
Hello Friends,
You just never know what activities will transpire here at Base. After my
wonderful chicken hot dog omelet and Peet’s coffee this morning I decided to
rearrange the rocks leading to my tent so that I stop stubbing my toes and
tripping in the dark (exciting I know).
Then some friends in a nearby camp swung by to see if I wanted to go climb some
ice with them below the Icefall. To hell with the sidewalk that can wait another
day… We scoped a nice looking ice wall about a week ago that we’ve been waiting
to get on and today was the day. The ice was perfect, a lot like the stuff on
the inside of an old freezer but much thicker. We led a couple of sections and
hung top ropes for doing laps. We kept that up until the weather crapped out and
packed it in and headed back to our respective camps for lunch. Yummm... more
chicken hot dog stuff. Now I’m sitting in my little freeze hole with a beautiful
can of beer writing you folks. Life is super.
On a different note, the climbers are still chillin’ at Camp 2 breathing heavily
and drinking loads of hot fluids. Pretty much every climbing team is up at Camp
2 right now doing the same thing. Sounds like a party. If all goes as planned,
they will be back down in about 3-4 days to rest for a while and then wait for
some big ol’ window of calm weather so that they can do what we are here for.
--Richie
From: Everest Basecamp [basecamp@nucleus.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2004 1:29 AM
To: julie@mountain-link.com
Subject: Better Base Camp Livin’
Hello Friends,
You just never know what activities will transpire here at Base. After my
wonderful chicken hot dog omelet and Peet’s coffee this morning I decided to
rearrange the rocks leading to my tent so that I stop stubbing my toes and
tripping in the dark (exciting I know). Then some friends in a nearby camp swung
by to see if I wanted to go climb some ice with them below the Icefall. To hell
with the sidewalk that can wait another day. We scoped a nice looking ice wall
about a week ago that we’ve been waiting to get on and today was the day. The
ice was perfect, a lot like the stuff on the inside of an old
freezer but much thicker. We led a couple of sections and hung top ropes for
doing laps. We kept that up until the weather crapped out and packed it in and
headed back to our respective camps for lunch. Yummm... more chicken hot dog
stuff. Now I’m sitting in my little freeze hole with a beautiful can of beer
writing you folks. Life is super.
On a different note, the climbers are still chillin’ at Camp 2 breathing heavily
and drinking loads of hot fluids. Pretty much every climbing team is up at Camp
2 right now doing the same thing. Sounds like a party. If all goes as planned,
they will be back down in about 3-4 days to rest for a while and then wait for
some big ol’ window of calm weather so that they can do what we are here for.
--Richie
Dispatch 13 – April 27, 2004
It certainly has been awhile since we’ve updated all of you on what has been
going on here on Mount Everest. The team has spent some time above base camp
acclimatizing. We carried gear to Camp One (19,700’) and returned to B.C. After
a few days we climbed back to Camp One, spent the night and then the following
day did a carry to Camp Two (21,300’). After our carry we returned to Camp Two
and spent two nights there.
It’s at that point when you leave Camp Two that the climbing gets steep up the
Lhotse Wall. We were planning on heading up to three but that’s when the
unexpected
happened. One of our team members at Camp Two was suffering from a nasty cough
and had trouble just standing up and walking around camp. It was at that point
that I made the decision that the following morning we would descend to Base
camp.
The next morning Joe was suffering even more and he told me he could not make it
and he wanted to stay at Camp Two. NOT AN OPTION! That’s what I was screaming at
him, as he just stood there hardly able to move. I knew Joe was ex-military and
since I have been called a drill sergeant I thought it would be the best
motivation for him. And it was. Joe started slowly, barely moving towards Camp
One. We passed Dawa Sherpa on our way down as he was going up. At that point I
knew Joe needed serious help. I asked Dawa to grab a bottle of Oxygen and hurry
back down to us. I also called Base camp and told the boys to grab some O’s and
head up towards us.
We got Joe on high flow oxygen and Dawa, Awngschew, Tendee, Lhakpa Nuru and I
assisted Joe from Camp One to Base camp. It normally takes a person 2 ½ hours to
get down. It took us with Joe 10 ½ hours. I knew things were not good and they
were getting worse. When we finally reached base camp I called the Doctors and
they sent a stretcher over for transport to the medical tent.
Joe made it down just in time and thankfully for the doc’s Joe’s high altitude
pulmonary edema was controlled until the next morning when he was taken by
helicopter safely to Kathmandu where he went to the Norvic Medical Center,
respected for its specialty in high altitude illnesses.
Yes, a very serious situation has come to a happy ending. Joe is healthy and I
am a little upset seeing he is now chowing down cheeseburgers and cokes. I asked
Joe if he wanted me there with him and he said absolutely not. He missed the
point that I didn’t really want to be there with him; I just wanted the luxuries
of Kathmandu. Thanks Joe!
The climb continues but first we are going to take a vacation and go down in
altitude to Namche (12,500’) for a little R & R. When we return, we will head up
the mountain hopefully to the top.
--Jeff Justman
Dispatch 14 – May 2, 2004
Well, well, well, we have been out of communication for some time and for good
reason. Lhawang, Craig Van Hoy and I have been in the lowlands (12,500’) for a
little rest and relaxation.
After two long days getting team member Joe Hughes down after he suffered a bout
of pulmonary edema. We are very happy to report he is back in the U.S. most
likely eating a big fat steak dinner right now. As I was saying we went to lower
altitudes to give our lungs a break with rich oxygen and moist air. Okay, okay,
we might have had a beer or two as well. Spending too much time at extreme
altitude just wears you down. So after a few days down low we are back at base
camp fresh as daisies. Yes! I even took a shower after one month.
Winds are howling up high on Everest but the good news is the route to the South
Col is officially established. That means once we hear and see that the weather
up high is calming down, we are packing up and making our summit push, this
could be any day.
Our team, now consists of Craig Van Hoy (fellow RMI Guide), myself, Lhawang
Dhondup and our team of Sherpas (Dawa, Lhakpa Nuru, Tendee and Wangschew) will
climb from base camp to Camp Two (21,400’). The following day Craig and I plan
to climb to Camp Three (23,500’).
The Sherpas with their super-human strength will climb directly to the South Col
or Camp Four (26,700’) where Craig and I will meet them the following day. From
there it’s a quick brew of water, food and we are out the door moving for the
summit. Man! It sounds good on paper, keep your fingers crossed for good
weather. Quite possibly the next time you hear from us it will be after our
summit attempt
--JJ
Dispatch 15 – May 5, 2004
Most climbers here on Everest climb higher up the mountain to acclimatize, we
just play golf! The 7th Annual Khumbu Klassic Golf Challenge took place on
Wednesday, May 5th. While the winds are still gusting strong up at 24,000ft, the
winds at the club were mild.
Reigning four-time champion Mark Tucker was defeated by Jeff Justman with a
deciding eagle on hole 18. Meanwhile, various teams are pressing higher up the
mountain. Mountain Link is starting to establish high camp at the South Col.
Everyone in base camp is waiting to see who is heading up for summit attempts.
With the right weather we should be heading up soon. As you can tell, we are
getting bored here in base camp. But at least I’m getting a head start on my
golf game.
--JJ
Photo of JJ taken by Mark “Tank” Tucker
Dispatch 16 – May 7, 2004
There is one question every high altitude climber asks himself or herself during
a major expedition, “What the HELL am I doing here”?
Like Bend, Oregon fly-fishing or a Wisconsin whitetail deer hunt, patience is
the key in climbing 8000-meter peaks. Here we are, again, at Everest base camp
patiently
waiting for a weather window to make our way up to the South Col for a summit
attempt. Now I know you’re asking, “JJ, you’ve been on Everest for 35 days now
and you have only spent 8 or so of those days actually climbing. What do you do
with all that down time”? Well, here are the Top 10 things mountaineers (well,
at least speaking for myself) do with their down time.
10. Play chess with as many people who have no idea how to play chess.
09. Wash my socks
08. On second thought, Burn my socks.
07. Raid the Greek’s kitchen tent for as much olive oil and olives.
06. Raid the Irish’s kitchen tent for as much Guinness and Whiskey.
05. Join the now 23 member Khumbu Coughing Choir and perform, “I Left My Lungs
in San Francisco” for visiting Trekkers.
04. Convince filmmaker David Brashears I’d be the perfect leading role in the
“in the works” Hollywood film about the 1996 Everest tragedy.
03. Find the All Women Swedish Everest Team and play strip poker.
02. Since there are NO All Women Everest Teams period, resort to playing strip
solitaire!
01. Deeply visualize pillow as Salma Hayek to stay warm on cold base camp
nights!
--Jeffrey James Justman
Dispatch 17 – May 9, 2004 Happy Mom’s Day!
Happy Mom’s Day! I am going to keep this short...We are heading up for our
summit attempt. Talk to you in a week or so...
--JJ
Dispatch 18 – May 12, 2004 – We are on our way UP!
Prior to departure for Camp 2, I received an email from JJ asking if Selma had
called yet. You know since their departure every time I pick up the phone I
think it might be her on the other end. You never know….
JJ left a message last night (Tues PM for us; Wed AM for them). The whole crew
is at Camp 2 at 21,400 feet. Craig and JJ will make their way up to Camp 3
tomorrow (Thursday) to 23, 500 feet while the Sherpa crew rests at Camp 2 for a
day.
On Friday, Craig and JJ will go from Camp 3 to Camp 4, the South Col. The Sherpa
Crew will climb from Camp 2 to the South Col on this day as well. Then the fun
begins….
Everyone is feeling great! The weather is blowing hard up high however the
forecast is looking good for the 15th & 16th. There are a lot of teams up there.
A lot of people are planning on going on the 15th so they will see how it plays
out.
Keep your fingers crossed, say your prayers and hope for a safe and successful
climb! If all goes as planned they will call once they return to Camp 2 on
Sunday, May 16th.
--The Mountain Link Staff
Dispatch 19 – May 17, 2004
Our summit day was perfect, no wind, nothing. However, my socks were a bit damp.
I thought I was getting blisters on my big toes, later realizing my feet were a
bit cold. I have minor frostbite on both big toes, not bad, should be fine.
Also, my first time using O’s sucked.
My oxygen mask froze up. I climbed from the balcony to the south summit using no
oxygen. I literally became scared for my life. I told Lhawang something is
really wrong. Lhakpa pulled out an extra mask and it was day and night! I
climbed the final section up the Hillary step in great style.
It took us 9 hours to get up, which was at 6:30 in the morning and it took me 6
painfully slow hours to get back down. Our Team as you know consist of the best
Sherpa in the world and Lhawang is an excellent leader without this team the
trip would not have been a success!
The Mountain Link Summit roster: Jeff Justman, Lhawang Dhondup, Lhakpa Nehru,
Craig Van Hoy (Go Trek Expedition), brothers Dawa and Tendi Sherpa.
Here are some photos of our summit day!
Thanks for all of the wonderful support!
--Jeff Justman
Hello to all-
Apparently, we did not get these images yesterday. Here are the images from
Summit Day.
The Team is making their way back to Kathmandu. They broke down their base camp
and started walking. They will be out of email contact for a few days. Once in
Kathmandu, the Team will have the pleasure of signing the Everest Summitter’s
Wall at the Rum Doodle, a bar in Kathmandu.
They hope to be back in the US sometime around the 25th-27th of May.
Again, they send their “Thanks” for all of the support!
Julie O’Neil
Mountain Link, LLC
19800 Village Office Court #203, Bend, OR 97702
800.408.8949 Phone
541.312.3357 Phone
541.312.8766 Fax
julie@mountain-link.com
www.mountain-link.com
Copyright© 2004 by Mountain Link, LLC. All Rights Reserved.
The Photos from the Mountain Link team are reproduced here:
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About Alpine Mountaineering:
Interesting essays reviewed 03.01.04
The Sport of Alpine Mountaineering
Climbing Together
Following the Leader
The Mountaineers' Rope
Basic Responsibilities
The Ten Essentials
Our Mission
Alpine
climbing on snow and ice:
FAQs reviewed
05.01.04
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