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JJ and Lhawang on the Summit
Copyright© 2004 by Mountain Link, LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Copyright© 2004 - 2007 by Robert Speik. All Rights Reserved
I was pleased to have been invited to have lunch with JJ and Aaron of Mountain Link, LLC, and another outdoor writer, on JJ's very first day back home in Bend. We had a great two hours at the Deschutes Brewery. JJ had just one beer and talked about going to work-out at Gold's Gym that afternoon. We suggested he let the workouts slide for a day or two.
JJ recounted not one, but two medical evacuations due to altitude in and just above, Everest Base Camp (about 17,000'). I am sure his forceful leadership saved a life.
Read between the lines of his dispatches provided in full on another page. I will try to bring you some of his informative answers to my many questions about fixed ropes, food, poop, summit traffic jambs, oxygen masks and Sherpa climbers and more in the next few days. --Bob Speik
Read more . . .
Mountain Link website
Senior Guide Garrett Madison moves to Bend, Oregon
JJ Justman autographs a photo for TraditionalMountaineering
Bend team set to scale Mount Everest
Dispatches from Mountain Link's Everest summit
Bend's Mountain Link Guides put four climbers on the summit of Everest!
Climbing
Aconcagua with Mountain Link from Mendoza to the summit A 23 minute video by Whitaker Productions
Photos from JJ's expedition to the top of Everest
ABOUT ALPINE MOUNTAINEERING
The Sport of Alpine Mountaineering
Climbing Together
Following the Leader
The Mountaineers' Rope
Basic Responsibilities
The Ten Essentials
Our Mission
CARBORATION AND HYDRATION
Is running the Western States 100 part of "traditional mountaineering"?
What's wrong with GORP?
Answers to the quiz!
Why do I need to count carbohydrate calories?
What should I know about having a big freeze-dried dinner?
What about carbo-ration and fluid replacement during traditional alpine climbing?
4 pages in pdf
What should I eat before a day of alpine climbing?
ALPINE CLIMBING ON SNOW AND ICE
Winter mountaineering hazards - streams and lakes
Is long distance backpacking part of "traditional mountaineering"?
How long is the traditional alpine mountaineering ice axe?
What about climbing Mt. Hood?
What is a good personal description of the south side route on Mount Hood?
What should I know about travel over hard snow and ice?
How can I learn to self belay and ice axe arrest?
6 pdf pages
What should I know about snow caves?
What should I know about climbing Aconcagua?
AVALANCHE AVOIDANCE
Young Bend man dies in back county avalanche
What is an avalanche cord?
Avalanche training courses - understanding avalanche risk
How is avalanche risk described and rated by the professionals?
pdf table
How can I avoid dying in an avalanche?
Known avalanche slopes near Bend, OR?
What is a PLB?
Can I avoid avalanche risk with good gear and seminars?
pdf file
SNOWSHOES AND CRAMPONS
Why do you like GAB crampons for traditional mountaineering?
What should I know about the new snowshoe trails
What are technical snowshoes?
Which crampons are the best?
What about Boots and Shoes?
YOUR ESSENTIAL SUMMIT PACK
What are the new Ten Essential Systems?
What does experience tell us about Light and Fast climbing?
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
What is Light and Fast alpine climbing?
What do you carry in your day pack?
Photos?
What do you carry in your winter day pack?
Photos?
Why are "Emergency Kits" dangerous?
What should I know about "space blankets"?
Leave no Trace with Restop bags
Mountaineering blue bag, WAG bag and Restop bag waste solutions in 1985
Where can I get a personal and a group first aid kit?
Photos?
YOUR LITE AND FAST BACKPACK
Which light backpack do you use for winter and summer?
Analysis
pdf
What would you carry in your backpack to climb Shasta or Adams?
Leave no Trace with Restop bags
Mountaineering blue bag, WAG bag and Restop bag waste solutions in 1985
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
Photos of lite gear packed for a multi day approach to spring and summer summits
Backpack lite gear list for spring and summer alpine mountaineering
4 pdf pages
ESSENTIAL PERSONAL GEAR
Why is the GSM digital cell phone best for backcountry and mountaineering?
What does Steve House wear for light and fast climbing?
What clothing do you wear for Light and Fast winter mountaineering?
What do you carry in your winter day pack?
Photos?
Which digital camera do you use in the mountains?
What about Boots and Shoes?
Notable Events
Free solo climber Michael Reardon swept from Irish sea cliff and drowns
Brittany Griffith, Patagonia Athlete and American Alpine Club
Ambassador
Bend's Mountain Link Guides put four climbers on the summit of Everest!
Climbing
Aconcagua with Mountain Link from Mendoza to the summit A 23 minute video by Whitaker Productions
HERA , Rebeckah Berry and the Climb for Life at Smith Rock State Park
Royal Robbins speaks on 40 Years of Adventure, first ascents and first descents
Steve House of Bend and Vince Anderson summit Rupal Face Alpine Style
REI opens new store in Bend Oregon
Patagonia by Pandora's Backpack get a new website
Tommy Caldwell free climbs both The Nose and Freerider in a day
Climbing Mount Hood in April with Arlene Blum and friends
Tomaz Humar rescued from Rupal Face in Pakistan
Jim Ratz, NOLS Director, AMGA Director and Environmental Leader dies in climbing accident
Climbers summit Rainier, Adams and Hood in 28 hours!
Pandora's Backpack opens in downtown Bend Oregon
Ed Viesturs summits Annapurna
Jim Angell, master trail builder, dies at age 76
Fred Beckey, "Will Belay For Food!!!
Smith Rock "Spring Thing"
About Brad Washburn by Michael Chessler
Top of the world: Bend team set to scale Mt. Everest
Annapurna, a woman's place is on top
The search for Peter Starr
Seven summits in twenty-four hours in Oregon Cascades
Mountaineers mourn Ira Spring
Climbing Legends returning for another shot at Everest
Fred Beckey, icon and living legend
Galen and Barbara Rowell die in plane crash
Mike Bearzi spearheads donation of rescue cache to Smith Rock
Veteran alpinist Mike Bearzi dies while climbing in Tibet
Bend's Midge Cross with women's team on Everest!
Bend's Nancy Knoble climbs Aconcagua!
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