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Technical Steep snow climbing training in Bend Oregon
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The technical steep snow climbing Class of 2009 from Montana, Washington, California and Oregon

 

 

 

 

 


This bollard was larger than needed for the snow conditions of this day.

 


This snow bollard was not very pretty, but it was very strong. We backed it up with two stakes.
The last climber on the rappel removed the gear leaving only the bollard.

 


Learning the dulphersitz rappel off a quick anchor. If the "steep icy patch" was short,
the last climber might have pulled the stake and climbed down, belayed from below with a dynamic sitting belay.

 


We all worked on each new technique.

 

 


Setting up a quick sitting hip belay with single stake anchor.

 

 


First try at a Z pulley crevasse rescue system.

 


6 mm Prussics worked, Bachman knots hung up in the pulleys

 

 

 


Copyright© 2009 - 2010 by Robert Speik. All Rights Reserved.

Note: Keeping my Nikon "point and pray" camera warm in an inside pocket, I forgot about it for long periods of time. Happily, Tom had his digital camera and many pictures shown here are Tom's. --Webmeister Speik

PROSPECTUS FOR THE DAY
“SERENE” SNOW ANCHORS - BUILD AND TEST
-PICKET
-DEADMAN
-ICE AXE DEADMAN
-SNOW BOLLARD

SNOW BELAYS, INSTANT AND BACKED UP BY ANCHORS
-SITTING HIP BELAY
-ICE AXE BOOT BELAY
-STANDING ICE AXE/CARABINEER BELAY
-DYNAMIC SNOW BELAYS OF THE LEADER

ROPED TRAVEL ON SNOW, ROCK, ICE AND CASCADES GLACIERS
-PORTIONING THE ROPE FOR 3 PERSON ROPED TEAM
-TYING IN FRONT, BACK AND MIDDLE PERSON
-POSITION OF PRUSSIC, TEXAS PRUSSIC AND PACK TIE OFF
-CLIMBING WITH FIXED ROPES ON STEEP HARD SNOW SLOPES

RAPPELLING, SELF BELAY, CLIMBING THE (RAPPEL) ROPE
-DULPHERSITZ, ATC, FIGURE 8, ETC.
-(ALL PRACTICE RAPPELS MUST BE SEPARATELY BELAYED)

Z PULLEY CREVASSE RESCUE SYSTEM
-DEMONSTRATE, SET UP AND USE

ICE AXE ARREST
-SUBJECT TO SNOW CONDITIONS ON THE DAY OF THE SEMINAR
 

 

self belay!         self arrest! self arrest! self arrest! self arrest! . . .
Illustrations from Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills

Videos by the Mountaineering Council of Scotland 
See video of the correct way to belay and arrest
See video of Roping Up For Glaciers
See video of Crevasse Rescue

  Sunday, April 26, 2009, 9 AM to about 3 PM, Free Seminar and Practice near Mt. Bachelor
Climbing and descending steep snow slopes, ice axe belay and arrest and crevasse rescue! FULL
We will meet near the Mt. Bachelor parking lot at about 9AM. From there we will a short hike on consolidated snow to certain appropriate slopes for steep snow climbing skills and ice axe belay/arrest practice, skills needed for Aconcagua, Hood, Shasta, Jefferson, Adams, and all the others. Learn about skills and gear for rope protected climbing and rappelling steep snow, rock and ice slopes on major peaks, avalanche risk avoidance, crevasse rescue gear and set-up. Designed for basic to advanced participants.
Read the Prospectus. See the photos of Ice Axe Arrest and of Technical Steep Snow Climbing. See the pictures of this 2008 event!
Participants must have their own climbing helmet (no bike helmets), mountaineering length ice axe, climbing harness and belay device.
Participants must have the details and method of instruction for snow climbing and Ice axe belay and arrest in mind.
We are limiting this class to 10 participants. No drop-ins please! Reservations only, by April 10, 2008!
Information from Leader Robert Speik at 541-385-0445, info@traditionalmountaineering.org

 

 

 

    WARNING - *DISCLAIMER!*
Mountain climbing has inherent dangers that can in part, be mitigated

Read more . . .
American Alpine Club
Oregon Section of the AAC
Accidents in North American Mountaineering

  ABOUT TRADITIONAL ALPINE MOUNTAINEERING:
  The Sport of Alpine Mountaineering
  Climbing Together
  Following the Leader
  The Mountaineers' Rope
  Basic Responsibilities       Cuatro Responsabiliades Basicas de Quienes Salen al Campo
  The Ten Essential Systems         Los Diez Sistemas Esenciales

LATEST NEWS POSTINGS
Gear grist, an article written for The Mountaineer, the monthly newsletter of The Mountaineers
Robert Speik writes: "Use your digital cell in the backcountry" for The Mountaineer
Snowboarder lost overnight near Mount Bachelor, rescued by SAR 
Skull Hollow campground becomes a recreation fee case study
Two climbers die in fall from Horsethief Butte Crags
The Oregon Badlands Wilderness Bill is signed into law
Mount Hood - Fatal ice fall below the Pearly Gates during warming winter weather
Mount Hood - Fatal rock fall on the Elliot Headwall during summer conditions
Mt. Hood climber falls 300 feet descending the South Side from the summit
Mt. Hood climber falls descending Mazama Chute from summit
Woman leaves car stuck in snow near Klamath Falls, dies from exposure
Man rescued from crevasse just off South Sister climber's trail
Proposed Tumalo Recreation Zone in the Deschutes National Forest
Kapka-Tumalo Snowmobile Parks in Deschutes National Forest
Snowmobiler falls 1,500' into Mt. St. Helens and survives
Remembering Jim Witty, 1958-2008
Alpinist Magazine has closed its doors
OpEd to The Bulletin: Vote the Democratic Ticket!
Climbing South Sister: Some suggestions and a near disaster
Exploring The Badlands with a simple GPS
Trail runner survives fall on ice with cell phone call
Mount Hood climber falls descending Mazama Chute from the summit
Wildland Fire Use in the Three Sisters Wilderness
Mt. Hood climber killed by summer rockfall
Juniper: Oldest trees in Oregon
Barack Obama talks about Patriotism, a ten minute video speech!
Climber on Mt. Rainier dies of hypothermia in brief storm. What happened
Death on Mt. Hood - What happened to the three North Face climbers? 
Final Report to the American Alpine Club on the loss of three climbers on Mount Hood in December 2006
Climber on Mt. Rainier dies of hypothermia in brief storm. What happened
Death on Mt. Hood - What happened to the three North Face climbers? 
Recent rescues, tragedies spur hiker-safety reminders on KTVZ
Polycarbonate bottles may be bad for your health>

MOST RECENT EXPERIENCES OF OTHERS
Two climbers die in fall from Horsethief Butte Crags
Mount Hood - Fatal ice fall below the Pearly Gates during warming winter weather
Man rescued from crevasse just off South Sister climber's trail
Father and sons rescued descending South Sister in storm on Labor Day
Mount Hood climber falls descending Mazama Chute from the summit
Mt. Hood climber killed by summer rockfall
Climber on Mt. Rainier dies, others injured
Young climber stuck on a steep snow slope rescued from Mt. Hood
Climbers badly injured during 500-foot sliding fall on Mt. Hood
Final Report to the American Alpine Club on the loss of three climbers on Mount Hood in December 2006
Climber on Mt. Rainier dies of hypothermia in brief storm. What happened
Death on Mt. Hood - What happened to the three North Face climbers? 
Three Fingered Jack - OSU student falls on steep scree slope
Climber injured by rockfall, rescued by helicopter from Mount Washington, Oregon
Three Mountaineers struck by rock-fall in North Cascades
Solo climber falls from Cooper Spur on Mount Hood
Climber dies on the steep snow slopes of Mount McLaughlin
Climbers swept by avalanche while descending North Sister's Thayer Glacier Snowfield

 TECHNICAL MOUNTAINEERING
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
What is the best belay | rappel | autoblock device for traditional alpine mountaineering?
What gear do you normally rack on your traditional alpine mountaineering harness?     Photos?    
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering seat harness?    Photos?   
Can I use a Sharpie Pen for Marking the Middle of the Climbing Rope?
What are the highest peaks in Oregon?   Alphabetically?

 CARBORATION AND HYDRATION
Is running the Western States 100 part of "traditional mountaineering"?
What's wrong with GORP?    Answers to the quiz!
Why do I need to count carbohydrate calories?
What should I know about having a big freeze-dried dinner?
What about carbo-ration and fluid replacement during traditional alpine climbing?   4 pages in pdf  
What should I eat before a day of alpine climbing?

 ALPINE CLIMBING ON SNOW AND ICE
Winter mountaineering hazards - streams and lakes
Is long distance backpacking part of "traditional mountaineering"?
How long is the traditional alpine mountaineering ice axe?
What about climbing Mt. Hood?
What is a good personal description of the south side route on Mount Hood?
What should I know about travel over hard snow and ice?
How can I learn to self belay and ice axe arrest?   6 pdf pages  
What should I know about snow caves?
What should I know about climbing Aconcagua?

 AVALANCHE AVOIDANCE
Young Bend man dies in back county avalanche
What is an avalanche cord?
Avalanche training courses - understanding avalanche risk
How is avalanche risk described and rated by the professionals?    pdf table 
How can I avoid dying in an avalanche?
Known avalanche slopes near Bend, OR?
What is a PLB?
Can I avoid avalanche risk with good gear and seminars?   pdf file

 SNOWSHOES AND CRAMPONS
Why do you like GAB crampons for traditional mountaineering?
What should I know about the new snowshoe trails
What are technical snowshoes?
Which crampons are the best?
What about Boots and Shoes?    

 YOUR ESSENTIAL SUMMIT PACK
What are the new Ten Essential Systems?
What does experience tell us about Light and Fast climbing?
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
What is Light and Fast alpine climbing?
What do you carry in your day pack?      Photos?    
What do you carry in your winter day pack?       Photos?    
What should I know about "space blankets"?
Where can I get a personal and a group first aid kit?      Photos?

 YOUR LITE AND FAST BACKPACK
Which light backpack do you use for winter and summer?    Analysis   pdf  
What would you carry in your backpack to climb Shasta or Adams?   
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
Photos of lite gear packed for a multi day approach to spring and summer summits
Backpack lite gear list for spring and summer alpine mountaineering    4 pdf pages

 ESSENTIAL PERSONAL GEAR
What does Steve House wear for light and fast climbing?
What clothing do you wear for Light and Fast winter mountaineering?
What do you carry in your winter day pack?       Photos?   
Which digital camera do you use in the mountains?
What about Boots and Shoes?    

 TRADITIONAL KNOWLEDGE
How did you become interested in traditional mountaineering techniques?
Who is Conrad Messner?
What is traditional slacklining or highlining?
What are some of the comments you have received?
Who was Peter Starr?
Who are the Mazamas?
What is an avalanche cord?
Who were the notorious Vulgarians?
How was top rope climbing practiced in the 1970s?
What is a Whillans sit harness?
What is a dulfersitz rappel?
How do I self-belay a rappel?

 BACKCOUNTRY NAVIGATION
How accurate is the inexpensive hand-held GPS today?
Can you get me a $30 rebate on your favorite GPS: Garmin's Legend?    pdf form
What are some good Central Oregon Geocaches?
What is the Public Land Survey Grid?   pdf
What is the UTM Grid?   six pdf pages
Which GPS do you like?    
Which Compass do you like?   
How do you use your map, compass and GPS together, in a nut shell?
How can I learn to use my map, compass and GPS?
Do you have map, compass and GPS seminar notes?   six pdf pages

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