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FREE BASIC TO ADVANCED ALPINE MOUNTAIN CLIMBING INSTRUCTION™
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What is the Sport of Traditional Alpine Mountaineering?
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04.01.15 --or Google these selected phrases
Middle Sister fall claims Benjamin Newkirk of Bend, Oregon
What about climbing Mt. Hood?
Lost Badlands Wilderness Hiker calls 911
Rescuers assist overdue Broken Top climber
Injured Climber Rescued from Smith Rock “Wherever I May Roam” climbing area
Mount Hood - Missing hiker Mary Owen, found alive after six nights alone
Bend father and son snowmobilers lost overnight - 2013
Why are "snow caves" dangerous?
Missing snowmobilers found, Roger Rouse dies from hypothermia - 2006
Op-Ed: Bulletin survival recommendations don’t offer full picture - 2013
Op-Ed: Bulletin survival recommendations don’t offer full picture - 2007
Op-Ed: Good maps are vital to the wilderness experience
Three snowshoe hikers found by SAR after two cold nights on Mt. Hood
Hikers found by SAR on Tam McArthur Rim
Whoops: GPS locator switches on, sparks search - what happened?
Mount Hood - Experienced climber dies in 1,000' tumbling fall from the Hogsback
Mount Hood - Experienced climber dies in solo fall from the Hogsback
Four die unprepared in forecast storm on Mt. Rainier
Badlands Wilderness Management Plan - Our Comments
Pomona College Magazine: Expert Advice from Robert Speik, Class of '50
Searchers Find Lost Mountain Biker West of Bend
Solo cross country skier lost north of Mt. Bachelor
Analysis of the December 2009 deaths from hypothermia of three climbers on Mount Hood
Teen skier without cell phone, lost for nine hours in deep powder at Mt. Bachelor
Lost Prineville hunter avoids hypothermia in Ochoco mountains! What did he do right?
Three Stranded "Hikers" Rescued from Atop South Sister by SAR
Several lost hiker incidents near Sisters, Oregon, resolved by SAR
Fallen solo climber on Mount Thielsen, rescued by "chance encounter"
OpEd: Yuppie 911 devices can take the "search" out of Search and Rescue
Mt. Rainier climbers lack cell phones, one dies from hypothermia, overnight in forecast storm
Robert Speik writes: "There is no denying the sense of cell" for The Mountaineers
Robert Speik writes about the Ten Essential Systems for The Mountaineers Magazine
SPOT-2 Satellite GPS Messenger at stores nationwide
Use your common digital cell phone for backcountry adventures and mountaineering
Three unprepared hikers rescued from South Sister in snow storm on Labor Day
Mt. Hood climbers killed by summit icefall on blue bird day
Man rescued from crevasse just off South Sister climber's trail, child dies
Remembering Jim Witty, 1958-2008
Oregon HB 2509 mandates short-range electronic signaling devices on Mt. Hood - climbers' views
Climbing party "saved" by big warm dog and cell phone on the ski slopes of Mt. Hood!
Mount Hood - What happened to the three North Face climbers in December 2006?
Missing California family found, father dies from hypothermia in quest to find help
Missing snowmobilers found, Roger Rouse dies from hypothermia
American Alpine Club's "Trad Award" for "mentoring" goes to Robert Speik!
Royal Robbins speaks on "40 Years of Adventure", in Bend, Oregon
Steve House of Central Oregon and Vince Anderson summit Rupal Face in alpine style
OSU graduate slips from Three Fingered Jack
Mount Washington climber seriously injured in rockfall
North Sister climbers swept away by Spring avalanche
R.J. Secor seriously injured during a runaway glissade
Mount Washington claims two climbers
X-Adventure Raid World Adventure Race qualifier in Bend OR
Mt. Jefferson climbers rescued by helicopter
Steens Big Indian Gorge backpack adventure with Jim Witty
Photos of mountaineering adventures: 04.01.15 --or Google these selected phrases:
ONDA volunteers plant 700 aspens, restoring meadows at Silvies Valley Ranch
Jared Leisek's Brokentop with GoPro and PPG
Drone footage of climbers on Trango Tower
South Sister solo cross country circumnavigation in early summer
The classic Snow Creek Route, a 10,000 foot gain!
TraditionalMountaineering Adopts the Crooked River through Smith Rock
Bachelor Butte Dog Derby sled dog races from Wanoga Snowpark
Bend businesses sponsor a Badlands "Wilderness Restoration" Day
Badlands wilderness trail closure volunteers "trammel" required values
Wilderness Restoration: The Paradox of Public Participation
South Sister spring-snow overnight for gear and skills
The essential contents of back and summit packs
Steep snow climbing Class of 2009
Photos of all stages of the Pole Peddle Paddle
Photos of a summer climb of South Sister in the Three Sisters Wilderness
Retro-bolting Meadow Crags with local climbers and The Access Fund
USFS Volunteer Training near Oakridge Ranger Station
Rafting the John Day River with Ouzel and pulling fence with ONDA
American Alpine Club's Annual Meeting in Bend OR
Redmond Fire Department rescues a senior hiker at Smith Rock
Snow Camping Seminar, from bivy to base camp
Views of the Oregon Cascades in the summer and fall
Three Finger Jack, a deceptively dangerous summit
The Fall Festival takes over downtown Bend Oregon
Cascade Cycling's Twilight Criterium in downtown Bend
HERA Climb for Life Event at Smith Rock State Park
Smith Rock Spring Thing!
BARK club adventure race near Smith Rock
Pulling barbed wire on the Hart Mountain Antelope Refuge with ONDA
Navigation Noodle with map, compass and GPS in The Badlands
An overnight cross country circumnavigation of South Sister!
A cross country circumnavigation of Broken Top across the Bend Glacier!
X-Adventure Raid Adventure Race North America qualifier in Bend!
Barack Obama's 2008 Town Hall Meeting in Bend, Oregon
Mountain Link Senior Guide JJ Justman's Mt. Everest summit!
Middle and North Sister summer climbing adventure
Mt. Adams spring snow summit
Climbing Mount Thielsen and Broken Top
South Sister spring-snow overnight for gear and skills
Maps: reviewed 04.01.15
Op-Ed, Good maps are vital to the wilderness experience
Map of some known Avalanche Slopes near Bend, Oregon
Official USFS winter recreation trails west of Bend
New topo maps of Nordic and snowshoe trails - printable with UTMs!
USFS recreation trails map for the forest near Bend
Badlands non-motorized trails just east of Bend
Raid Adventure Race course map in the mountains west of Bend
Information: reviewed 04.01.15
About alpine mountaineering:
Traditions, ethics, essentials, responsibilities and more
Carry our SAR request/WFA form
Assemble your traditional mountaineering first aid kit(s)
About our World Wide Website:
Read about our website Awards, and more
Warning - *Disclaimer*: reviewed 04.01.15
Together with Bend's nice weather! no popups, no advertising, ever!
Field Seminars: 04.01.15
Free - Rappelling from basic to advanced!
Free - Winter camping from bivy to base camp!
Free - Steep snow climbing and ice axe arrest seminars!
Free - Two days cross country around South Sister
Free - Broken Top Circle on trails, traces, snow, rock and glacier ice
Free - Navigation Noodle™ in The Badlands
Recommended Classes: reviewed 04.01.15
Map, compass and GPS used together:
Be Prepared for Seasonal Adventures: Wilderness First Aid:
Traditional basic mountaineering gear and skills classes:
Seminar Handouts: reviewed 04.01.15
Four Simple Responsibilities of each backcountry traveler
The Ten Essential Systems
Using map, compass and GPS together, twelve pdf pages
Gear list for climbs of Mts. Shasta and Adams, four pdf pages
Understanding and avoiding death from Hypothermia, two pdf pages
Climbing steep snow slopes, five pdf pages
Carbo-ration and Hydration in alpine mountaineering, six pdf pages
Experiences: 04.01.15 --or Google these selected phrases:
Rescuers find overdue Broken Top climber
Accidents in North American Mountaineering, reports to the American Alpine Club
Reports that provide experience from the adventures of others
South Sister climber rescued by local helicopter
North Sister fall claims yet another climber
Climber injured in fall near Smith Rock, lowered in high angle rescue
North Sister fall claims Brian Jones
Fallen solo climber on Mount Thielsen, rescued by chance encounter
Two climbers die in fall from Horsethief Butte Crags in Washington
Analysis of the December 2009 deaths of three climbers on Mt. Hood
Climber dies from hypothermia in overnight storm on Mt. Rainier: Analysis
Experienced rock climber Jim Anglin dies at Smith Rock
Analysis of the December 2006 deaths of three climbers on Mt. Hood Trip Report on climbing North Sister in June
Fitz Cahall: Accident at the summit of North Sister
Slip on Three Fingered Jack takes OSU graduate
Mt. Whitney's east face route is quickest!
Climbing the 10,000' Snow Creek Route on Mt. San Jacinto
Climbers swept down by avalanche on North Sister
Accident Report on R.J. Secor's runaway glissade
Report on the sad Mount Washington tragedy
Questions: 04.01.15 --or Google these selected phrases:
FCC E911 Requirements for Providing Mobile Phone Geographic Locations
How can I prevent, recognize and treat hypothermia in the backcountry?
What is the best new GPS for backcountry and mountaineering?
SPOT II Satellite Messenger "PLB" reviewed and recommended
What do you carry in your summer day pack? Plus photos of this gear!
Which topographic maps really work with your compass and GPS?
How do you use your $7 topo map, $30 adjusted compass and $100 Garmin GPS together?
What is a good "digital" cell phone for mountaineering and backcountry travel?
Why is an "emergency kit" dangerous?
What is a reepschnur rappel?
How can I self belay my rappels?
What do you know about Tick Talk?
What are the best snowshoes? Best crampons?
What about digging and designing a safe snow cave?
What about novices climbing Mt. Hood?
What's in the best summer backpack for Mt. Adams? Plus photos!
What is the best inexpensive base plate compass, topo map and new GPS?
What is the best traditional mountaineering ice axe?
Email updates: reviewed 04.01.15
Contact us! for where to find these BEST deals:
Black Diamond Raven Ice Axes to 90cm, $60.00!
Suunto M3D Leader Compass, $25.00!
SPOT-2 Satellite Messenger, $100.00!
Garmin eTrex Venture HC $100.00!
Books: reviewed 04.01.15
Reviews and a BIBLIOGRAPHY, as well!
"Mountaineering, The Freedom of the Hills", 8th Edition, required reading
"Accidents in North American Mountaineering, for 68 years, but 2000 to 2014", required reading
"Beyond Risk, Conversations with Climbers", recommended
"Extreme Alpinism" by Mark Twight and James Martin, recommended
"Self Rescue by David J. Fasulo (and Mike Clelland), a must
"Alpine Climbing" by Mark Houston and Kathy Cosley, recommended
My personal 1972 Chouinard Catalog of clean new hexentrics, pitons, harnesses and more!
Seasonal trail conditions Report: last received 03.26.15
Chris Sabo's USFS latest trail tips: last received 03.26.15
Selected Links: links reviewed 04.01.15
More than 386 selected and indexed external links you will like!
Contact us! reviewed 04.01.15
Translate our website! reviewed 04.01.15
"To provide information and instruction about world-wide basic to advanced alpine mountain climbing safety skills and gear, and on and off trail hiking,
scrambling and light and fast Leave No Trace backpacking techniques based on the foundation of an appreciation for the Stewardship of the Land,
all illustrated through photographs and accounts of actual shared mountaineering adventures."
HomePage and SiteMap
Updated by hand 04.18.15
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for limited nonprofit educational use by schools and clubs. Original material Copyright© 1999-2015 by Robert Speik. All Rights Reserved.
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TraditionalMountaineering.org and Robert Speik have been quoted in Outside, Climbing, Rock and Ice
and Backpacker magazines, Trailspace News, the Los Angeles Times and
Accidents in North American Mountaineering, Pomona College Magazine, Palm Springs Life Magazine, Cascades East Magazine, The Bulletin, The Oregonian, Patagonia Dirt Bag Diaries,
Wikipedia, The Source, Bend Weekly, Sisters Nugget News, The High Desert Pulse, The (Seattle) Mountaineer, The Cascades Mountaineer, CascadeClimbers, Huel Hauser, NBC, ABC, KPOV and more!
Chairman of the Mountaineering Training Committee of the Angeles Chapter of the Sierra Club providing Basic and Advanced Mountaineering Training for about 1,000 novices each year, mid 1980s
Instructor in Basic to Advanced Mountaineering Training at Central Oregon Community College, educating adults in eight related subject classes, for six years, mid 1990s
Volunteer Backcountry Ranger, backpacking the Three Sisters Wilderness for four summer seasons, educating users about Leave No Trace and Wilderness ethics, for five summers, late 1990s
Organizer and Instructor of private and public Seminars on cramponing, self arrest, lead climbing anchors, self belayed rappelling, using the right topo map, compass and GPS together and many more
Co-Founder and Charter President of Cascades Mountaineers, a club of up to 300 Members, 1995 to 2001
Access Fund "Sharp End Award" goes to Robert Speik in 2000! Listed under "Great Leaders" by the Sierra Club in 2011
Honored with the 2006 Oregon Section American Alpine Club's "Trad Award" for mentoring mountaineers and climbers!
Contributor to "Accidents in North American Mountaineering" 1998 to 2014! Special Mention in ANAM in 2014!
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