Traditional alpine mountaineering - free information and instruction

News:

02.02.10
        Locator beacons "supposedly" can take the 'search' out of Search and Rescue
        OpEd: Yuppie 911 devices can take the search out of Search and Rescue
        Robert Speik writes: "There is no denying the sense of cell" for The Mountaineers
        Robert Speik writes about the Ten Essential Systems for The Mountaineer Magazine
        SPOT Unveils Next Generation Satellite GPS Messenger at Outdoor Retailer
        Use your common digital cell phone for backcountry adventures and mountaineering

Mt. Rainier climbers lack cell phones, climber dies overnight in forecast storm
The Oregon Badlands Wilderness signed into law

        Three rescued from South Sister in snow storm on Labor Day
        Mt. Hood climber killed by summit icefall on blue bird day
        Man rescued from crevasse just off South Sister climber's trail, child dies
        Proposed Tumalo Recreation Zone in the Deschutes National Forest
        Remembering Jim Witty, 1958-2008
        Pomona College Magazine: Expert Advice from Robert Speik, Class of '50
        Lessons learned from lost Mt. Hood climbers in 2007
        Free solo climber Michael Reardon falls from Irish sea-cliff and is drowned

        Oregon HB 2509 mandates electronic signaling devices on Mt. Hood - climbers' views
        Climbing party "saved" by big warm dog and cell phone on the ski slopes of Mt. Hood!
        Mount Hood - What happened to the three North Face climbers in December 2006?

Missing California family found, father dies from hypothermia in quest to find help

        Missing snowmobilers found, Roger Rouse dies from hypothermia
        Missing man stays with stranded car, found by snowmobilers
        Missing South Sister novice climber found after 6.5 mile snow trek to Elk Lake
        American Alpine Club's "Trad Award" for "mentoring" goes to Robert Speik!
        Bend's Mountain Link team puts four on Everest's summit!
        Royal Robbins speaks on "40 Years of Adventure", in Bend, Oregon
        Steve House of Bend Oregon and Vince Anderson summit Rupal Face in alpine style

        OSU graduate slips from Three Fingered Jack
        Mount Washington climber seriously injured in rockfall
        North Sister climbers swept away by Spring avalanche
        R.J. Secor seriously injured during a runaway glissade
        Mount Washington claims two climbers
        X-Adventure Raid World Adventure Race qualifier in Bend OR
        Mt. Jefferson climbers rescued by helicopter
        Steens Big Indian Gorge backpack adventure with Jim Witty

Photos of mountaineering adventures:

02.02.10
       Bend businesses sponsor a Badlands "Wilderness Restoration" Day
       Badlands wilderness trail closure volunteers "trammel" required values
       Wilderness Restoration: The Paradox of Public Participation
       South Sister spring-snow overnight for gear and skills
       The essential contents of back and summit packs
       Steep snow climbing Class of 2009

Photos of all stages of the Pole Peddle Paddle

Photos of a summer climb of South Sister in the Three Sisters Wilderness
Retro-bolting Meadow Crags with local climbers and The Access Fund

       USFS Volunteer Training near Oakridge Ranger Station
       Rafting the John Day River with Ouzel and pulling fence with ONDA
       American Alpine Club's Annual Meeting in Bend OR

Redmond Fire Department rescues a senior hiker at Smith Rock
The classic Snow Creek Route, a 10,000 foot gain!

       Climbing to the summit of Mt. Jefferson
       Snow Camping Seminar, from bivy to base camp
       Views of the Oregon Cascades in the summer and fall
       Three Finger Jack, a deceptively dangerous summit
       The Fall Festival takes over downtown Bend Oregon
       Cascade Cycling's Twilight Criterium in downtown Bend
       HERA Climb for Life Event at Smith Rock State Park
       Smith Rock Spring Thing!
       BARK club adventure race near Smith Rock
       Pulling barbed wire on the Hart Mountain Antelope Refuge with ONDA
       Winter summits of the Oregon Cascades from Tumalo Mountain
       Navigation Noodle with map, compass and GPS in The Badlands

An overnight cross country circumnavigation of South Sister!

       A cross country circumnavigation of Broken Top across the Bend Glacier!
       X-Adventure Raid Adventure Race North America qualifier in Bend!
       Barack Obama's 2008 Town Hall Meeting in Bend, Oregon

Mountain Link Senior Guide JJ Justman's Mt. Everest summit!
Middle and North Sister summer climbing adventure

Mt. Adams summer snow summit

Climbing Mount Thielsen and Broken Top

South Sister spring-snow overnight for gear and skills
The essential contents of back and summit packs

Maps:

reviewed 02.02.10
Map of some known Avalanche Slopes near Bend, Oregon
Official USFS winter recreation trails west of Bend

       New color maps of Nordic and snowshoe trails - printable with UTMs!
       2007 USFS recreation trails map for the forest near Bend
       Map of proposed Skyline Forest between Bend and Sisters
       Badlands non-motorized trails just east of Bend
       Raid Adventure race course map in the mountains west of Bend

Information:

reviewed 02.02.10

About alpine mountaineering:
Traditions, ethics, essentials, responsibilities and more

Leader's guidelines:
        Carry our SAR request/WFA form
        Assemble your traditional mountaineering first aid kit(s)

About our World Wide Website:
Read about our website Awards, and more
Our subscriber's discounts at favorite stores

Warning - *Disclaimer*:

reviewed 02.02.10

Calendar:

02.02.10
Together with Bend's nice weather! no popups, no advertising, ever!

Field Seminars:

  02.02.10
        Free - Rappelling from basic to advanced!
        Free - Winter camping from bivy to base camp!
        Free - Steep snow climbing and ice axe arrest seminars!
        Free - Two days cross country around South Sister
        Free - Broken Top Circle on trails, snow, rock and glacier ice
        Free - Navigation Noodle™ in The Badlands

Recommended Classes:

reviewed 02.02.10

Map, compass and GPS together:

Real Backcountry Survival Strategies:

Wilderness First Aid:

Traditional basic mountaineering gear and skills classes:

Seminar Handouts:

  reviewed 02.02.10
        Using map, compass and GPS together, twelve pdf pages
        Gear list for climbs of Mts. Shasta and Adams, four pdf pages

Understanding and avoiding death from Hypothermia, two pdf pages

Climbing steep snow slopes, five pdf pages
Carbo-ration and Hydration in alpine mountaineering, six pdf pages

Experiences:

02.02.10
Analysis of the December 2009 deaths of three climbers on Mt. Hood

Two die while setting top rope anchors at Brighton's Bluff in Washington

Climber dies from hypothermia in overnight storm on Mt. Rainier: Analysis

Experienced rock climber Jim Anglin dies at Smith Rock
Analysis of the December 2006 deaths of three climbers on Mt. Hood

        Trip Report on climbing North Sister in June
        Fitz Cahall: Accident at the summit of North Sister
        Slip on Three Finger Jack takes OSU graduate
        Mt. Whitney's east face route is quickest!
        Climbing the 10,000' Snow Creek Route on Mt. San Jacinto
        Climbers swept down by avalanche on North Sister
        Accident Report on R.J. Secor's runaway glissade
        Report on the most recent Mount Washington tragedy
        Accident Reports to the American Alpine Club
        Reports that provide experience from the adventures of others

Questions:

   02.02.10
        What is the best new GPS for backcountry and mountaineering?
        SPOT II Satellite Messenger "PLB" reviewed and recommended
        What do you carry in your summer day pack? Plus photos of this gear!
        What do you carry in your winter day pack? Plus photos!

What clothing system do you wear for winter adventures?

        Which topographic maps work with your compass and GPS?
        How do you use your $6 map, $30 compass and $100 GPS together?
        What is a good "digital" cell phone for mountaineering and backcountry travel?

Why is an "emergency kit" dangerous?

        Why is a "space blanket" dangerous?
        What are the best snowshoes? Best crampons?
        What about safe snow caves?
        What about novices climbing Mt. Hood?
        What's in the best summer backpack for Mt. Adams? Plus photos!
        What is the best inexpensive base plate compass, topo map and new GPS?
        What do you carry in your winter snowshoe day pack? Plus photos!
        What is the best traditional mountaineering ice axe?
        What gear do you rack on your alpine harness?

Email updates:

   reviewed 02.02.10
        Contact us! for information on these good deals:
        Black Diamond Raven Ice Axes to 90cm, $80.00!
        SPOT-I GPS Communicator, $50.00!

Books:

reviewed 02.02.10
        Reviews and a BIBLIOGRAPHY, as well! pdf
       "Mountaineering, The Freedom of the Hills", 7th Edition, required reading
       "Accidents in North American Mountaineering, 2009", recommended reading
       "Beyond Risk, Conversations with Climbers", recommended
       "Extreme Alpinism" by Mark Twight and James Martin, recommended
       "Self Rescue by David J. Fasulo (and Mike Clelland), a must
       "Alpine Climbing" by Mark Houston and Kathy Cosley, recommended
        My personal 1972 Chouinard Catalog of clean new hexentrics, pitons, harnesses and more!

Seasonal trail conditions Report:

last received 01.14.10

Chris Sabo's USFS latest trail conditions:

last received 01.20.10

Selected Links:

links updated 01.26.10
More than 326 selected and indexed links you will like!

Contact us!

reviewed 02.02.10

Translate our website!

reviewed 02.02.10

OUR MISSION
"To provide information and instruction about world-wide basic to advanced alpine mountain climbing safety skills and gear, and on and off trail hiking,
scrambling and light and fast Leave No Trace backpacking techniques based on the foundation of an appreciation for the Stewardship of the Land,
all illustrated through photographs and accounts of actual shared mountaineering adventures."

Updated by hand 02.08.10
Dialup download times for these web pages are held to a minimum! Blazing 100 megabit broadband experience too!

Any use of this material is prohibited without express written permission from the Copyright Holders. However, written permission likely will be granted for specific pages
for limited nonprofit educational use by schools and clubs. Original material Copyright© 2002-2010 by Robert Speik. All Rights Reserved.

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TraditionalMountaineering.org and Robert Speik have been quoted in "Outside", "Climbing", "Rock and Ice" and "Backpacker" magazines and
Accidents in North American Mountaineering, Pomona College Magazine, Cascades East Magazine, The Bulletin, The Oregonian,
The (Seattle) Mountaineer, The Cascades Mountaineer, NBC, ABC, KPOV and more!
Access Fund "Sharp End Award" goes to Robert Speik in 2000!
Honored with the 2006 Oregon Section American Alpine Club's "Trad Award" for mentoring mountaineers and climbers!
Special Mention in "Accidents in North American Mountaineering' 1999 to 2009!