Accident at Smith Rock
South Sister solo cross country circumnavigation in early summer

The classic Snow Creek Route, a 10,000 foot gain!

TraditionalMountaineering Adopts the Crooked River through Smith Rock
Bachelor Butte Dog Derby sled dog races from Wanoga Snowpark
Bend businesses sponsor a Badlands "Wilderness Restoration" Day

Badlands wilderness trail closure volunteers "trammel" required values

Wilderness Restoration: The Paradox of Public Participation
South Sister spring-snow overnight for gear and skills
The essential contents of back and summit packs

Steep snow climbing Class of 2009

Photos of all stages of the Pole Peddle Paddle

Photos of a summer climb of South Sister in the Three Sisters Wilderness
Retro-bolting Meadow Crags with local climbers and The Access Fund
USFS Volunteer Training near Oakridge Ranger Station
Rafting the John Day River with Ouzel and pulling fence with ONDA
American Alpine Club's Annual Meeting in Bend OR

Redmond Fire Department rescues a senior hiker at Smith Rock
Snow Camping Seminar, from bivy to base camp

Views of the Oregon Cascades in the summer and fall
Three Finger Jack, a deceptively dangerous summit
The Fall Festival takes over downtown Bend Oregon
Cascade Cycling's Twilight Criterium in downtown Bend
HERA Climb for Life Event at Smith Rock State Park
Smith Rock Spring Thing!
BARK club adventure race near Smith Rock
Pulling barbed wire on the Hart Mountain Antelope Refuge with ONDA
Navigation Noodle with map, compass and GPS in The Badlands

An overnight cross country circumnavigation of South Sister!

A cross country circumnavigation of Broken Top across the Bend Glacier!
X-Adventure Raid Adventure Race North America qualifier in Bend!
Barack Obama's 2008 Town Hall Meeting in Bend, Oregon

Mountain Link Senior Guide JJ Justman's Mt. Everest summit!
Middle and North Sister summer climbing adventure 

Mt. Adams spring snow summit
Climbing Mount Thielsen and Broken Top
South Sister spring-snow overnight for gear and skills
Maps:
reviewed 05.02.12
Map of some known Avalanche Slopes near Bend, Oregon
Official USFS winter recreation trails west of Bend

New topo maps of Nordic and snowshoe trails - printable with UTMs!

USFS recreation trails map for the forest near Bend
Badlands non-motorized trails just east of Bend
Raid Adventure Race course map in the mountains west of Bend
Information:
reviewed 05.01.12
About alpine mountaineering:
Traditions, ethics, essentials, responsibilities and more
Leader's guidelines:
Carry our SAR request/WFA form

Assemble your traditional mountaineering first aid kit(s)
About our World Wide Website:
Read about our website Awards, and more
Warning - *Disclaimer*:
reviewed
05.01.12
Calendar:
05 01.12
Together with Bend's nice weather!
no popups, no advertising, ever!
Field Seminars:
05.09.12
Free - Rappelling from basic to advanced!
Free - Winter camping from bivy to base camp!
Free - Steep snow climbing and ice axe arrest seminars!
Free - Two days cross country around South Sister
Free - Broken Top Circle on trails,
traces, snow, rock and glacier ice
Free - Navigation Noodle™ in The Badlands

Recommended Classes:
reviewed 05.01.12
Map, compass and GPS together:

Be Prepared for Seasonal Adventures:
Wilderness First Aid:

Traditional basic mountaineering gear and skills classes:

Seminar Handouts:
reviewed 05.01.12
Four Simple Responsibilities of each
backcountry traveler
The Ten Essential Systems
Using map, compass and GPS together, twelve pdf pages
Gear list for climbs of Mts. Shasta and Adams, four pdf pages

Understanding and avoiding death from Hypothermia, two pdf pages
Climbing steep snow slopes, five pdf pages

Carbo-ration and Hydration in alpine mountaineering, six pdf pages

Experiences:
05.09.12
--or Google these phrases:
Accidents in North American
Mountaineering, reports to the American Alpine Club
Reports that provide experience from the adventures of others
North Sister fall claims yet another climber
Climber injured in fall near Smith Rock, lowered in high angle rescue
North Sister fall claims Brian Jones
Fallen solo climber on Mount Thielsen, rescued by chance encounter
Two climbers die in fall from Horsethief Butte Crags in Washington
Analysis of the December 2009 deaths of three climbers on Mt. Hood

Climber dies from hypothermia in overnight storm on Mt. Rainier: Analysis

Experienced rock climber Jim Anglin dies at Smith Rock
Analysis of the December 2006 deaths of three climbers on Mt. Hood
Trip Report on climbing North Sister in June
Fitz Cahall: Accident at the summit of North Sister
Slip on Three Fingered Jack takes OSU graduate
Mt. Whitney's east face route is quickest!
Climbing the 10,000' Snow Creek Route on Mt. San Jacinto
Climbers swept down by avalanche on North Sister
Accident Report on R.J. Secor's runaway glissade
Report on the sad Mount Washington tragedy
Questions:
05.09.12 --or Google these phrases:
FCC E911 Requirements for Providing Mobile Phone Geographic Locations
How can I prevent, recognize and treat hypothermia in the backcountry?
What is the best new GPS for backcountry and mountaineering?
SPOT II Satellite Messenger "PLB" reviewed and recommended
What do you carry in your summer day pack? Plus photos of this gear!
Which topographic maps really work with your compass and GPS?
How do you use your $7 topo map, $30 adjusted compass and $100 Garmin GPS together?
What is a good "digital" cell phone for mountaineering and backcountry travel?

Why is an "emergency kit" dangerous?

How can I self belay my rappels?
What do you know about Tick Talk?
What are the best snowshoes? Best crampons?
What about digging and designing a safe snow cave?
What about novices climbing Mt. Hood?
What's in the best summer backpack for Mt. Adams? Plus photos!
What is the best inexpensive base plate compass, topo map and new GPS?
What is the best traditional mountaineering ice axe?
Email updates:
reviewed 05.01.12
Contact us! for where to find these
SALE deals:
Black Diamond Raven Ice Axes to 90cm, $60.00!
Suunto M3D Leader Compass, $25.00!
SPOT-2 Satellite Messenger,
$100.00!
Garmin eTrex Venture HC $100.00!
Books:
reviewed 05.01.12
Reviews and a BIBLIOGRAPHY, as well!
"Mountaineering, The Freedom of the Hills",
8th Edition, required reading
"Accidents in North American Mountaineering, 2010", recommended reading
"Beyond Risk, Conversations with Climbers", recommended
"Extreme Alpinism" by Mark Twight and James Martin, recommended
"Self Rescue by David J. Fasulo (and Mike
Clelland), a must
"Alpine Climbing" by Mark Houston and Kathy Cosley, recommended
My personal 1972 Chouinard Catalog of clean new hexentrics, pitons, harnesses and more!
Seasonal trail conditions Report:
last received 05.11.12
Chris Sabo's USFS latest trail tips:
last received 05.11.12

Selected Links:
links reviewed
05.05.12
More than 366 selected and indexed external links you will like!

Contact us!
reviewed 05.01.12
Translate our website!
reviewed 05.01.12
OUR MISSION
"To provide information and instruction about world-wide basic to advanced alpine mountain climbing
safety skills and gear, and on and off trail hiking,
scrambling and light and fast Leave No Trace backpacking techniques based on the foundation of an
appreciation for the Stewardship of the Land,
all illustrated through photographs and accounts of actual shared mountaineering adventures."

HomePage and SiteMap
Updated by hand 05.15.12
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the Copyright Holders. However, written permission likely will be granted for specific pages
for limited nonprofit educational use by schools and clubs. Original material Copyright© 2002-2012 by Robert Speik. All Rights Reserved.
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TraditionalMountaineering.org and Robert Speik have been quoted in "Outside", "Climbing", "Rock and Ice"
and "Backpacker" magazines and
Accidents in North American Mountaineering, Pomona College Magazine, Palm
Springs Life Magazine, Cascades East Magazine, The Bulletin, The Oregonian,
Patagonia Dirt Bag Diaries,
Wikipedia, The Source, Bend Weekly, Sisters Nugget News,
The High Desert Pulse,
The (Seattle) Mountaineer, The Cascades Mountaineer, Huel Hauser, NBC, ABC, KPOV and more!
Chairman of the Mountaineering Training Committee of the Angeles Chapter of the
Sierra Club providing Basic and Advanced Mountaineering Training for about 1,000
novices each year, mid 1980s
Instructor in Basic to Advanced Mountaineering Training at Central Oregon Community College,
teaching eight related subject classes, mid 1990s
Co-Founder and Charter President of Cascades Mountaineers, a club of up to 300
Members, 1995 to 2001
Access Fund "Sharp End Award" goes to Robert Speik in 2000! Listed under
"Great Leaders" by the Sierra Club in 2011
Honored with the 2006 Oregon Section American Alpine Club's "Trad Award" for mentoring mountaineers and climbers!
Special Mention in "Accidents in North American Mountaineering" 1998 to 2011!
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