“SARENE” SNOW ANCHORS - BUILD AND TEST
-PICKET
-DEADMAN
-ICE AXE DEADMAN
-SNOW BOLLARD

SNOW BELAYS, INSTANT AND BACKED UP
­SITTING HIP BELAY
-ICE AXE BOOT BELAY
-STANDING ICE AXE/CARABINEER BELAY
-DYNAMIC SNOW BELAYS OF THE LEADER

ROPED TRAVEL ON SNOW, ROCK, ICE AND OUR CASCADES GLACIERS
-PORTIONING THE ROPE FOR 3 PERSON ROPED TEAM
-TYING IN FRONT, BACK AND MIDDLE PERSON
-POSITION OF PRUSSIC, TEXAS PRUSSIC AND PACK TIE OFF
-CLIMBING WITH FIXED ROPES ON STEEP HARD SNOW

RAPPELLING, SELF BELAY, CLIMBING THE (RAPPEL) ROPE
-DULPHERSITZ, ATC, FIGURE 8, ETC.
-PRUSSIC SELF BELAY
-PRUSSICS USED TO CLIMB THE (RAPPEL) ROPE
-(ALL PRACTICE RAPPELS MUST BE SEPARATELY BELAYED)

Z PULLEY CREVASSE RESCUE SYSTEM
-DEMO, SET UP AND BUILD

ICE AXE ARREST
-SUBJECT TO SNOW CONDITIONS. Read the Seminar Notes on Ice Axe Belay and Arrest.

BRING: YOUR ESSENTIALS, LUNCH AND WATER, AND:
- YOUR LIGHT HARNESS WITH RAPPEL AND PRUSSIC GEAR, LIGHT WEIGHT LOCKING BINERS, ETC
- YOUR ICE AXE, COMPLETE WITH IT'S GEAR
- ANCHORS: - SNOW STAKES, DEAD-PERSONS, AND ICE SCREWS
- 3 18" DIAMETER 6MM PRUSSIC LOOPS
- 3 48" DIAMETER, SEWN, 9/16 NYLON RUNNER
- 22' LENGTH OF 1" TUBULAR NYLON RUNNER
- YOUR CREVASSE RESCUE PULLEYS, PRUSSICS AND RUNNERS
- YOUR LITE DRY ALPINE 8+ TO 9MM ROPE
- OR USE OUR GEAR
- (NO CRAMPONS, PLEASE)

TECHNICAL REFERENCES:
MOUNTAINEERING, FREEDOM OF THE HILLS, CURRENT SEVENTH EDITION
GLACIER TRAVEL AND CREVASSE RESCUE, A. SHELTERS THE MOUNTAINEER'S PRESS, 1990

RESERVATIONS ARE REQUIRED! Space is limited. Please, no drop-ins. For a reservation email Leader by Monday, April 14, 2008.

MORE INFORMATION:
There is no charge or obligation for this training. We are simply mentoring fellow climbers. More information will be sent to registered participants.

See the photos of Ice Axe Arrest and of Technical Steep Snow Climbing.
Participants must have their own climbing helmet (no bike helmets), mountaineering length ice axe, climbing harness and belay device.
Participants must have the positions and method of instruction for snow climbing and Ice axe belay and arrest in mind.
No drop-ins please! Reservations only, by April 10, 2008!
Information from Leader Robert Speik at 541-385-0445, info@traditionalmountaineering.org