TRADITIONAL MOUNTAINEERING
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Seminar Prospectus

TECHNICAL HARD SNOW CLIMBING, ICE AXE ARREST AND GLACIER TRAVEL SEMINAR AND PRACTICE

Outing:                         Tenth Annual Technical Hard Snow Climbing, Glacier Travel, and Ice Axe Arrest Seminar and Practice
Dates And Times:         Sunday, April 20, 2008, from 9AM to about 3PM 
Place:                          Near the Mt. Bachelor Resort
Instructor:                    Robert Speik
Cost:                            FREE - but you must reserve a place. No drop-ins please
Reservations:              Call Robert Speik at 541-385-0445 or email info@traditionalmountaineering.org 

“SARENE” SNOW ANCHORS - BUILD AND TEST
-PICKET
-DEADMAN
-ICE AXE DEADMAN
-SNOW BOLLARD

SNOW BELAYS, INSTANT AND BACKED UP
­SITTING HIP BELAY
-ICE AXE BOOT BELAY
-STANDING ICE AXE/CARABINEER BELAY
-DYNAMIC SNOW BELAYS OF THE LEADER

ROPED TRAVEL ON SNOW, ROCK, ICE AND OUR CASCADES GLACIERS
-PORTIONING THE ROPE FOR 3 PERSON ROPED TEAM
-TYING IN FRONT, BACK AND MIDDLE PERSON
-POSITION OF PRUSSIC, TEXAS PRUSSIC AND PACK TIE OFF
-CLIMBING WITH FIXED ROPES ON STEEP HARD SNOW

RAPPELLING, SELF BELAY, CLIMBING THE (RAPPEL) ROPE
-DULPHERSITZ, ATC, FIGURE 8, ETC.
-PRUSSIC SELF BELAY
-PRUSSICS USED TO CLIMB THE (RAPPEL) ROPE
-(ALL PRACTICE RAPPELS MUST BE SEPARATELY BELAYED)

Z PULLEY CREVASSE RESCUE SYSTEM
-DEMO, SET UP AND BUILD

ICE AXE ARREST
-SUBJECT TO SNOW CONDITIONS. Read the Seminar Notes on Ice Axe Belay and Arrest.

BRING: YOUR ESSENTIALS, LUNCH AND WATER, AND:
- YOUR LIGHT HARNESS WITH RAPPEL AND PRUSSIC GEAR, LIGHT WEIGHT LOCKING BINERS, ETC
- YOUR ICE AXE, COMPLETE WITH IT'S GEAR
- ANCHORS: - SNOW STAKES, DEAD-PERSONS, AND ICE SCREWS
- 3 18" DIAMETER 6MM PRUSSIC LOOPS
- 3 48" DIAMETER, SEWN, 9/16 NYLON RUNNER
- 22' LENGTH OF 1" TUBULAR NYLON RUNNER
- YOUR CREVASSE RESCUE PULLEYS, PRUSSICS AND RUNNERS
- YOUR LITE DRY ALPINE 8+ TO 9MM ROPE
- OR USE OUR GEAR
- (NO CRAMPONS, PLEASE)

TECHNICAL REFERENCES:
MOUNTAINEERING, FREEDOM OF THE HILLS, CURRENT SEVENTH EDITION
GLACIER TRAVEL AND CREVASSE RESCUE, A. SHELTERS THE MOUNTAINEER'S PRESS, 1990

RESERVATIONS ARE REQUIRED! Space is limited. Please, no drop-ins. For a reservation email Leader by Monday, April 14, 2008.

MORE INFORMATION:
There is no charge or obligation for this training. We are simply mentoring fellow climbers. More information will be sent to registered participants.

See the photos of Ice Axe Arrest and of Technical Steep Snow Climbing.
Participants must have their own climbing helmet (no bike helmets), mountaineering length ice axe, climbing harness and belay device.
Participants must have the positions and method of instruction for snow climbing and Ice axe belay and arrest in mind.
No drop-ins please! Reservations only, by April 10, 2008!
Information from Leader Robert Speik at 541-385-0445, info@traditionalmountaineering.org

Copyright© 2008 by Robert Speik, All Rights Reserved.

 

 

 

 

Read more . . .
Photos of belayed rappels on snow
Photos of ice-axe arrest practice on snow

 ALPINE CLIMBING ON SNOW AND ICE
How long is the traditional alpine mountaineering ice axe?
Fatal Mt. Hood accident - Final Report and our Analysis  
What about climbing Mt. Hood? 
What is a good personal description of the south side route on Mount Hood?
What should I know about travel over hard snow and ice? 
How can I learn to self belay and ice axe arrest?   6 pdf pages   
What should I know about snow caves?  
What should I know about climbing Aconcagua? 

FREE SEMINARS
Ice axe self belay and self arrest seminar
Traditional snow climbing training: snow anchors and rappels 
Glacier travel and crevasse rescue seminar 

 TECHNICAL MOUNTAINEERING
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
What is the best belay | rappel | autoblock device for traditional alpine mountaineering?  
What gear do you normally rack on your traditional alpine mountaineering harness?     Photos?    
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering seat harness?     Photos?   
Can I use a Sharpie Pen for Marking the Middle of the Climbing Rope? 
What are the highest peaks in Oregon?    Alphabetically?

 AVALANCHE AVOIDANCE
What is an avalanche cord?
Avalanche training courses - understanding avalanche risk
How is avalanche risk described and rated by the professionals?   pdf table 
How can I avoid dying in an avalanche?
Known avalanche slopes near Bend, OR?  
What is a PLB? 
Can I avoid avalanche risk with good gear and seminars?   pdf file


 
SNOWSHOES AND CRAMPONS
Why do you like GAB crampons for traditional mountaineering?
What should I know about the new snowshoe trails
What are technical snowshoes?
Which crampons are the best?
What about Boots and Shoes?