Basic rappelling, free instruction and practice

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Seminar Prospectus

BASIC TO ADVANCED RAPPELLING, FREE INSTRUCTION AND PRACTICE

Outing:            Basic to advanced rappelling, technical seminar and practice
When:            Saturday, April 30, 2011, from 9 am to about noon
Place:             On the crags overlooking the Deschutes River at Meadow Picnic Area just west of Bend Oregon
Cost:              FREE - but you must reserve a place. No drop-ins please
Instructor:       Robert Speik
Reservations:  Call Robert Speik at 541-385-0445 or email info@traditionalmountaineering.org

CLASS DESCRIPTION:
Learn and discuss skills and gear for belay protected rappelling of steep snow, rock and ice slopes and faces on major peaks including Shasta, Adams, Jefferson, North Sister and more. Traditional and current instruction on this subject by The Mazamas, The Mountaineers, and the Angeles Chapter Sierra Club, for thousands of students over 30 years, begins with hands on instruction and practice like this outdoor Seminar

“Serene” anchors for rappels - minimum gear and set-up
Belays, instant and backed up - learn and practice fast set-up and rope handling
Rope setup and knots for rappelling
Harness set up recommended by Petzl
Rappel self belay including traditional and the new FB sling friction knot
Rappelling from various types of entry
Climbing the (rappel) rope - minimum gear and set-up
Dulphersitz rappel
Use of ATC, B-52, Reverso, Pirana, older figure 8, etc. and -prussic self belay, Shunt self belay, FB self belay and Jumars, Ascension and Croll, prussics and other gear used to climb the rope.

Group dynamics -
The class includes time for planning adventures together. We will be working together with the actual gear recommended in the class. All rappels must have a separate belay.

Required gear -
- your light harness with rappel and prussic gear, light weight locking biners, etc.
- 6mm prussic loops, sewn nylon runners, tubular nylon runner, -your own rope**
- your climbing helmet is required. I have two loaners for the morning
** This is intended to be a basic to advanced hands-on class. If you do not own the items marked with a **, you can use our gear. We suggest that you not buy gear before you attend this class.

Technical References:
Mountaineering, the Freedom of the Hills, 8th Edition, The Mountaineers, Seattle Washington
Self-Rescue by David J. Fasulo, 1996, Chockstone Press, Evergreen, Colorado

This basic to advanced training can be completed in this interesting day.
This is a free outdoor, hands-on, interactive skills class lead by Robert Speik.

Reservations are required! We are limiting this class to 10 participants!
In fairness to all, you will need to commit by March 14, 2011.

There is no charge or obligation for this training. We are simply mentoring fellow climbers.

TECHNICAL MOUNTAINEERING
What is the best belay | rappel | autoblock device for traditional alpine mountaineering?
What gear do you normally rack on your traditional alpine mountaineering harness?     Photos?
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering seat harness?    Photos?
What is a dulfersitz rappel?
How do I self-belay a rappel?
Can I use a Sharpie Pen for Marking the Middle of the Climbing Rope?

YOUR ESSENTIAL SUMMIT PACK
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
What are the new Ten Essential Systems?
What does experience tell us about Light and Fast climbing?
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
What is Light and Fast alpine climbing?
What do you carry in your day pack?    Photos?
What do you carry in your winter day pack?     Photos?
What should I know about "space blankets"?
Where can I get a personal and a group first aid kit?    Photos?

YOUR LITE AND FAST BACKPACK
Which light backpack do you use for winter and summer?    Analysis   pdf
What would you carry in your backpack to climb Shasta or Adams?
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
Photos of lite gear packed for a multi day approach to spring and summer summits
Backpack lite gear list for spring and summer alpine mountaineering    4 pdf pages

ESSENTIAL PERSONAL GEAR
What does Steve House wear for light and fast climbing?
What clothing do you wear for Light and Fast winter mountaineering?
What do you carry in your winter day pack? Photos?
Which digital camera do you use in the mountains?
What about Boots and Shoes?

TRADITIONAL KNOWLEDGE
How did you become interested in traditional mountaineering techniques?
Who is Conrad Messner?
What is traditional slacklining or highlining?
What are some of the comments you have received?
Who was Peter Starr?
Who are the Mazamas?
What is an avalanche cord?
Who were the notorious Vulgarians?
How was top rope climbing practiced in the 1970s?
What is a Whillans sit harness?
What are the highest peaks in Oregon? Alphabetically?

WARNING - *DISCLAIMER!*
Mountain climbing has inherent dangers that can in part, be mitigated