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FREE BASIC TO ADVANCED ALPINE MOUNTAIN CLIMBING INSTRUCTION
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TECHNICAL HARD SNOW CLIMBING, ICE AXE BELAY AND ARREST AND GLACIER TRAVEL PRACTICE
Tenth Annual Technical Hard Snow Climbing, Glacier Travel, and Ice Axe Belay and Arrest Practice
Dates and Times: Sunday, April 26, 2009, from 9 am to about 3 pm
Place: Near the Mt. Bachelor Resort
Instructor: Robert Speik
Cost: FREE - but you must reserve a place. No drop-ins please
Reservations: Call Robert Speik at 541-385-0445 or email firstname.lastname@example.org
“SERENE” SNOW ANCHORS - BUILD AND TEST
-ICE AXE DEADMAN
SNOW BELAYS, INSTANT AND BACKED UP
SITTING HIP BELAY
-ICE AXE BOOT BELAY
-STANDING ICE AXE/CARABINEER BELAY
-DYNAMIC SNOW BELAYS OF THE LEADER
ROPED TRAVEL ON SNOW, ROCK, ICE AND OUR CASCADES GLACIERS
-PORTIONING THE ROPE FOR 3 PERSON ROPED TEAM
-TYING IN FRONT, BACK AND MIDDLE PERSON
-POSITION OF PRUSSIC, TEXAS PRUSSIC AND PACK TIE OFF
-CLIMBING WITH FIXED ROPES ON STEEP HARD SNOW
RAPPELLING, SELF BELAY, CLIMBING THE (RAPPEL) ROPE
-DULPHERSITZ, ATC, FIGURE 8, ETC.
-PRUSSIC SELF BELAY
-PRUSSICS USED TO CLIMB THE (RAPPEL) ROPE
-(ALL PRACTICE RAPPELS MUST BE SEPARATELY BELAYED)
Z PULLEY CREVASSE RESCUE SYSTEM
-DEMO, SET UP AND BUILD
ICE AXE ARREST
-SUBJECT TO SNOW CONDITIONS. Read the Seminar Notes on Ice Axe Belay and Arrest.
BRING: YOUR ESSENTIALS, LUNCH AND WATER, AND:
- YOUR LIGHT HARNESS WITH RAPPEL AND PRUSSIC GEAR, LIGHT WEIGHT LOCKING BINERS, ETC
- YOUR ICE AXE, COMPLETE WITH IT'S GEAR
- ANCHORS: - SNOW STAKES, DEAD-PERSONS, AND ICE SCREWS
- 3 18" DIAMETER 6MM PRUSSIC LOOPS
- 3 48" DIAMETER, SEWN, 9/16 NYLON RUNNER
- 22' LENGTH OF 1" TUBULAR NYLON RUNNER
- YOUR CREVASSE RESCUE PULLEYS, PRUSSICS AND RUNNERS
- YOUR LITE DRY ALPINE 8+ TO 9MM ROPE
- OR USE OUR GEAR
- (NO CRAMPONS, PLEASE)
MOUNTAINEERING, FREEDOM OF THE HILLS, CURRENT SEVENTH EDITION
GLACIER TRAVEL AND CREVASSE RESCUE, A. SHELTERS THE MOUNTAINEER'S PRESS, 1990
RESERVATIONS ARE REQUIRED! Space is limited. Please, no drop-ins. For a reservation email Leader ASAP.
There is no charge or obligation for this training. We are simply mentoring fellow climbers. More information will be sent to registered participants.
See the photos of
Ice Axe Arrest and of
Technical Steep Snow Climbing.
Participants must have their own climbing helmet (no bike helmets), mountaineering length ice axe, climbing harness and belay device.
Participants must have the positions and method of instruction for snow climbing and Ice axe belay and arrest in mind.
No drop-ins please! Reservations only, ASAP.
Information from Leader Robert Speik at 541-385-0445, email@example.com
Copyright© 2009 - 2010 by Robert Speik, All Rights Reserved.
Read more . . .
Photos of belayed rappels on snow
Photos of ice-axe arrest practice on snow
ON SNOW AND ICE
How long is the traditional alpine mountaineering ice axe?
Fatal Mt. Hood accident - Final Report and our Analysis
What about climbing Mt. Hood?
What is a good personal description of the south side route on Mount Hood?
What should I know about travel over hard snow and ice?
How can I learn to self belay and ice axe arrest? 6 pdf pages
What should I know about snow caves?
What should I know about climbing Aconcagua?
Ice axe self belay and self arrest seminar
Traditional snow climbing training: snow anchors and rappels
Glacier travel and crevasse rescue seminar
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
What is the best belay | rappel | autoblock device for traditional alpine mountaineering?
What gear do you normally rack on your traditional alpine mountaineering harness? Photos?
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering seat harness? Photos?
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What are the highest peaks in Oregon? Alphabetically?
What is an avalanche cord?
Avalanche training courses - understanding avalanche risk
How is avalanche risk described and rated by the professionals? pdf table
How can I avoid dying in an avalanche?
Known avalanche slopes near Bend, OR?
What is a PLB?
Can I avoid avalanche risk with good gear and seminars? pdf file
SNOWSHOES AND CRAMPONS
Why do you like GAB crampons for traditional mountaineering?
What should I know about the new snowshoe trails
What are technical snowshoes?
Which crampons are the best?
What about Boots and Shoes?