Technical Steep Snow Climbing training in Bend Oregon

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Technical Steep snow climbing training in Bend Oregon
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The technical steep snow climbing Class of 2009 from Montana, Washington, California and Oregon

This bollard was larger than needed for the snow conditions of this day.

This snow bollard was not very pretty, but it was very strong. We backed it up with two stakes.
The last climber on the rappel removed the gear leaving only the bollard.

Learning the dulphersitz rappel off a quick anchor. If the "steep icy patch" was short,
the last climber might have pulled the stake and climbed down, belayed from below with a dynamic sitting belay.

We all worked on each new technique.

Setting up a quick sitting hip belay with single stake anchor.

First try at a Z pulley crevasse rescue system.

6 mm Prussics worked, Bachman knots hung up in the pulleys

Note: Keeping my Nikon "point and pray" camera warm in an inside pocket, I forgot about it for long periods of time. Happily, Tom had his digital camera and many pictures shown here are Tom's. --Webmeister Speik

FROM OUR PROSPECTUS FOR THE DAY
USING THE MOUNTAINEERING ICE AXE
-SELF BELAY GRIP AND SELF ARREST GRIP
-KICKING STEPS WITHOUT CRAMPONS
TRAVERSE AND TRANSITIONS
ICE ACE LEASHES

ICE AXE SELF BELAY
GRIP AND REFLEXES IN EITHER HAND

ICE AXE ARREST
GRIP AND REFLEXES IN EITHER HAND

“SERENE” SNOW ANCHORS - BUILD AND TEST
-PICKET
-DEADMAN
-ICE AXE DEADMAN
-SNOW BOLLARD

SNOW BELAYS, INSTANT AND BACKED UP BY ANCHORS
-SITTING HIP BELAY
-ICE AXE BOOT BELAY
-STANDING ICE AXE/CARABINEER BELAY
-DYNAMIC SNOW BELAYS OF THE LEADER

ROPED TRAVEL ON SNOW, ROCK, ICE AND CASCADES GLACIERS
-PORTIONING THE ROPE FOR 3 PERSON ROPED TEAM
-TYING IN FRONT, BACK AND MIDDLE PERSON
-POSITION OF PRUSSIC, TEXAS PRUSSIC AND PACK TIE OFF
-CLIMBING WITH FIXED ROPES ON STEEP HARD SNOW SLOPES

RAPPELLING, SELF BELAY, CLIMBING THE (RAPPEL) ROPE
-DULPHERSITZ, ATC, FIGURE 8, ETC.
-(ALL PRACTICE RAPPELS MUST BE SEPARATELY BELAYED)

Z PULLEY CREVASSE RESCUE SYSTEM
-DEMONSTRATE, SET UP AND USE

ICE AXE ARREST
-SUBJECT TO SNOW CONDITIONS ON THE DAY OF THE SEMINAR

self belay! self arrest! self arrest! self arrest! self arrest! . . .
Illustrations from Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills

Videos by the Mountaineering Council of Scotland
See video of the correct way to belay and arrest
See video of Roping Up For Glaciers
See video of Crevasse Rescue

Sunday, April 26, 2009, 9 AM to about 3 PM, Free Seminar and Practice near Mt. Bachelor
Climbing and descending steep snow slopes, ice axe belay and arrest and crevasse rescue! FULL
We will meet near the Mt. Bachelor parking lot at about 9AM. From there we will a short hike on consolidated snow to certain appropriate slopes for steep snow climbing skills and ice axe belay/arrest practice, skills needed for Aconcagua, Hood, Shasta, Jefferson, Adams, and all the others. Learn about skills and gear for rope protected climbing and rappelling steep snow, rock and ice slopes on major peaks, avalanche risk avoidance, crevasse rescue gear and set-up. Designed for basic to advanced participants.
Read the Prospectus. See the photos of Ice Axe Arrest and of Technical Steep Snow Climbing. See the pictures of this 2008 event!
Participants must have their own climbing helmet (no bike helmets), mountaineering length ice axe, climbing harness and belay device.
Participants must have the details and method of instruction for snow climbing and Ice axe belay and arrest in mind.
We are limiting this class to 10 participants. No drop-ins please! Reservations only, by April 10, 2008!
Information from Leader Robert Speik at 541-385-0445, info@traditionalmountaineering.org