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ALPINE MOUNTAIN CLIMBING INSTRUCTION™
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Steep snow climbing training in Bend Oregon
Simon says: Self Arrest grip
Self Arrest grip
Simon says: Self Belay grip
Self Belay grip
Glissade grip
Too fast? "Go to the Head" for the Self Arrest position
Sliding head first on the back
From head first on the back to Self Arrest position (crampons
always up)
Sliding head first on the stomach, ready to pivot around
Fifty foot high half crevasse at Mt. Bachelor
Group gear with Josh
More group gear
Group from Portland
Sitting hip belay stamped into the snow
Tying into the rope without a harness with bowline on a coil
Snow bollard that needs adjustment
Geared up in the wind and blowing snow
Self belayed rappel off SERENE pickets
Rappel device extended away from the body on a dedicated sling
Sitting hip belay and two picket anchors. Belayer can also be
anchored if necessary.
Copyright© 2008-2010 by Robert Speik. All Rights Reserved.
Note: Despite keeping my Nikon "point and pray" camera in an inside pocket, it was so cold and windy this particular Sunday that the camera battery stopped working before I got more or better pictures. --Webmeister Speik
Illustrations from Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills
Videos by the Mountaineering Council of Scotland
See video of the correct way to belay and arrest
See video of Roping Up For Glaciers
See video of Crevasse Rescue
Sunday, April 20, 2008, 9 AM to about 3 PM, Free Seminar and Practice near Mt. Bachelor
Climbing and descending steep snow slopes, ice axe belay and arrest and crevasse rescue!
FULL
We will meet near the Mt. Bachelor parking lot at about 9AM. From there we will a short
hike on consolidated snow to certain appropriate slopes for steep
snow climbing skills and ice axe belay/arrest practice, skills needed for
Aconcagua, Hood, Shasta, Jefferson, Adams, and all the others. Learn about
skills and gear for rope protected climbing and rappelling steep snow, rock and
ice slopes on major peaks, avalanche risk avoidance, crevasse rescue gear and set-up.
Designed for basic to advanced participants.
Read the Prospectus. See the photos of
Ice Axe Arrest and of
Technical Steep Snow Climbing.
See the pictures of this 2008 event!
Participants must have their own climbing helmet (no bike helmets),
mountaineering length ice axe, climbing harness and belay device.
Participants must have the details and method of
instruction for snow climbing and Ice axe belay and arrest in mind.
We are limiting this class to 10 participants.
No drop-ins please! Reservations only, by April 10, 2008!
Information from Leader Robert Speik at 541-385-0445,
info@traditionalmountaineering.org
WARNING - *DISCLAIMER!*
Mountain climbing has inherent dangers that can in part, be mitigated
Read more . . .
American Alpine Club
Oregon Section of the AAC
Accidents in North American Mountaineering
ABOUT TRADITIONAL ALPINE MOUNTAINEERING:
The Sport of Alpine Mountaineering
Climbing Together
Following the Leader
The Mountaineers' Rope
Basic Responsibilities
Cuatro Responsabiliades Basicas de Quienes Salen al Campo
The Ten Essential Systems
Los Diez Sistemas Esenciales
LATEST NEWS POSTINGS
HB 2509 mandates electronic locator beacons on Mt. Hood - climbers' views
Oregon HB 2509 as approved on March 28, 2007
Three hikers and a dog rescued on Mt. Hood
Motorist stuck in snow on backcountry Road 18, phones 911 for rescue
Snow stranded Utah couple leave car and die from hypothermia
What happened to the three climbers on Mt. Hood?
Two climbers become lost descending Mt. Hood
Missing California family found, dad dies from exposure and hypothermia
Missing man survives two weeks trapped in snow-covered car
Missing snowmobile riders found, Roger Rouse dies from hypothermia
Longacre Expeditions teen group rescued from the snowdrifts above Todd Lake
Lost climber hikes 6.5 miles from South Sister Trail to Elk Lake
Young climber stuck on a steep snow slope rescued from Mt. Hood
American Alpine Club's Trad Award goes to Robert Speik in 2006
MOST RECENT
EXPERIENCES OF OTHERS
A climb of Three Fingered Jack in the Mount Jefferson Wilderness
Ten high altitude deaths on Everest confirmed for 2006 climbing season
On Being and Becoming a Mountaineer: an Essay
Climbing Mount Hood in April with Arlene Blum and friends
AAC Report - Accident on Mount Washington ends with helicopter rescue
AAC Report - Fatal fall from Three Finger Jack in the Mount Jefferson Wilderness
Three Finger Jack - OSU student falls on steep scree slope
Mount Huntington's West Face by Coley Gentzel
©2005 by AAI. All Rights Reserved
Solo climber falls from Cooper Spur on Mount Hood
Climber dies on the steep snow slopes of Mount McLaughlin
Warning!! **Climbers swept by avalanche while descending North Sister's Thayer Glacier Snowfield
Mt. Whitney's East Face Route is quicker!
Mt. Whitney's Mountaineer's Route requires skill and experience
Report: R.J. Secor seriously injured during a runaway glissade
Mount Rainer . . . eventually, with R.J. Secor by Tracy Sutkin
Warning!! ** Belayer drops climber off the end of the top rope
Runaway glissade fatal for Mazama climber on Mt. Whitney
Sierra Club climb on Middle Palisade fatal for Brian Reynolds
Smith Rock - Fall on rock, protection pulled out
Mount Washington - Report to the American Alpine Club on a second accident in 2004
Mount Hood - Solo hiker drowns while crossing Mt. Hood's Sandy River
Mount Hood - Solo climber slides into the Bergschrund and is found the following day
Notable mountain climbing accidents analyzed
Mount Washington - Report to the American Alpine Club on the recent fatal accident
Mount Washington - "Oregon tragedy claims two lives"
Mount Jefferson - two climbers rescued by military helicopter
North Sister - climbing with Allan Throop
TECHNICAL MOUNTAINEERING
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
What is the best belay | rappel | autoblock device for traditional alpine mountaineering?
What gear do you normally rack on your traditional alpine mountaineering harness?
Photos?
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering seat harness?
Photos?
Can I use a Sharpie Pen for Marking the Middle of the Climbing Rope?
What are the highest peaks in Oregon?
Alphabetically?
CARBORATION AND HYDRATION
Is running the Western States 100 part of "traditional mountaineering"?
What's wrong with GORP?
Answers to the quiz!
Why do I need to count carbohydrate calories?
What should I know about having a big freeze-dried dinner?
What about carbo-ration and fluid replacement during traditional alpine climbing?
4 pages in pdf
What should I eat before a day of alpine climbing?
ALPINE CLIMBING ON SNOW AND ICE
Winter mountaineering hazards - streams and lakes
Is long distance backpacking part of "traditional mountaineering"?
How long is the traditional alpine mountaineering ice axe?
What about climbing Mt. Hood?
What is a good personal description of the south side route on Mount Hood?
What should I know about travel over hard snow and ice?
How can I learn to self belay and ice axe arrest?
6 pdf pages
What should I know about snow caves?
What should I know about climbing Aconcagua?
AVALANCHE AVOIDANCE
Young Bend man dies in back county avalanche
What is an avalanche cord?
Avalanche training courses - understanding avalanche risk
How is avalanche risk described and rated by the professionals?
pdf table
How can I avoid dying in an avalanche?
Known avalanche slopes near Bend, OR?
What is a PLB?
Can I avoid avalanche risk with good gear and seminars?
pdf file
SNOWSHOES AND CRAMPONS
Why do you like GAB crampons for traditional mountaineering?
What should I know about the new snowshoe trails
What are technical snowshoes?
Which crampons are the best?
What about Boots and Shoes?
YOUR ESSENTIAL SUMMIT PACK
What are the new Ten Essential Systems?
What does experience tell us about Light and Fast climbing?
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
What is Light and Fast alpine climbing?
What do you carry in your day pack?
Photos?
What do you carry in your winter day pack?
Photos?
What should I know about "space blankets"?
Where can I get a personal and a group first aid kit?
Photos?
YOUR LITE AND FAST BACKPACK
Which light backpack do you use for winter and summer?
Analysis
pdf
What would you carry in your backpack to climb Shasta or Adams?
What is the best traditional alpine mountaineering summit pack?
Photos of lite gear packed for a multi day approach to spring and summer summits
Backpack lite gear list for spring and summer alpine mountaineering
4 pdf pages
ESSENTIAL PERSONAL GEAR
What does Steve House wear for light and fast climbing?
What clothing do you wear for Light and Fast winter mountaineering?
What do you carry in your winter day pack?
Photos?
Which digital camera do you use in the mountains?
What about Boots and Shoes?
TRADITIONAL KNOWLEDGE
How did you become interested in traditional mountaineering techniques?
Who is Conrad Messner?
What is traditional slacklining or highlining?
What are some of the comments you have received?
Who was Peter Starr?
Who are the Mazamas?
What is an avalanche cord?
Who were the notorious Vulgarians?
How was top rope climbing practiced in the 1970s?
What is a Whillans sit harness?
What is a dulfersitz rappel?
How do I self-belay a rappel?
BACKCOUNTRY NAVIGATION
How accurate is the inexpensive hand-held GPS today?
Can you get me a $30 rebate on your favorite GPS: Garmin's Legend?
pdf form
What are some good Central Oregon Geocaches?
What is the Public Land Survey Grid?
pdf
What is the UTM Grid?
six pdf pages
Which GPS do you like?
Which Compass do you like?
How do you use your map, compass and GPS together, in a nut shell?
How can I learn to use my map, compass and GPS?
Do you have map, compass and GPS seminar notes?
six pdf pages
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